Iain Crosbie

Bowman installation framework taken off waterproofed Wolf 90, so includes rubber enclosure bag, racking and cabling all in excellent condition.

Militant Mk 3 rear brake drums NOS excellent condition. Also brake shoes, some linings and a Compressor.

Bowman installation framework taken off Wolf 90 waterproofed version, so includes waterproof rubber bag, racking, cabling etc. All in excellent condition.

Yes I have a download of this thanks, and I see on p 405 there are 6 plates with studs/nuts shown which I presume must be what I am looking for, but so far can't find them! I suspect that the incoming gale is coming from the escape hatch which is only secured in an odd manner by some webbing straps (which cunningly drip water into the interior!) but wanted to check the joint between screen and hardtop also. I think I have established that there is only one part number for the heated screen regardless of whether 12v or 24v: RRC7310

I have recently acquired a Wolf 90 waterproofed, winterised FFR. There are numerous draughts coming from the area of the top of the front windscreen which tend to negate the effect of the heater over 50mph! Some of this is undoubtedly coming from the escape hatch, but I cannot see how the hardtop is attached to the windscreen frame. Visibility in that area is not good due to the roll bar and hazmat, so before embarking on any dismantling can anyone tell me if the draughts are a 'feature' or a fault and how the two parts are fixed together? The heated front screen is also u/s and I have seen correspondence about the correct part number for the 24v replacement, but without a definitive answer. Has anyone successfully replaced one of these, and if so with what part number and from which supplier?

Foden Drops for auction in Glasgow this week. See website of Sweeney Kincaid, Auctioneers.

Nick, Puzzled as to why you think an air leak might be causing the rear brakes (presume both axles?) to lock as unless you have some kind of spring brake modification, no air would mean no brakes. Are you sure the hill-holder brake has not been inadvertently activated (lever on steering column), or the handbrake valve faulty? Can't see why air to the twin tank but not the single one, as it is fed directly from a common supply pipe. Your diagram seems to be different to mine, so the numbers are different, but if the red (single) tank is not filling there must either be a leak in the tank, or in the line from it to the foot take valve or the relay valve, all on the red line. If no air getting in to the red tank has the non return valve on the inlet line to the tank been fitted the wrong way round? Dragging mine out of the garage this week for the first rally of the summer on Sunday. Fingers crossed! Iain

Nick, You'll find info on the 'seal' on post 18 of this thread: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?51494-Milly-turbo-removal-return-to-standard/page2 it would be a good idea to check and renew if required the spigot shaft bearing in the flywheel too.

Yes, that's me. There was a Militant being renovated on here some time ago, with some nifty bodywork repairs to the front wheel arch, but it all seemed to come to an end before anything got finished. I think the vehicle in question came from Castle Douglas, so I assumed it might be yours. Maybe there are more of these around than I thought! Best of luck with the air tank, there is absolutely nothing on these trucks that is easy to get to!

You may have to take the panel off the rear of the cab, behind/below the battery stowage to get access, then use heat if the nuts are still reluctant to move. Is this the truck that had a thread some time ago showing repairs to the lower edge of the cab?

Nick, Sod's law about Truckfix, sometimes if you don't have bad luck you wouldn't have any luck at all! Can you not source a driven plate from a motor factor, and is there actually anything wrong with the pressure plate? How goes it with the gearbox?

Looks like the gearbox will need a good clean inside and out, or are you just going to swap mainshafts? Plenty of toys there, surprised you didn't come back with the Oshkosh!

Iain, The roof vent is still intact internally, but has been glassed over on the outside. I just assumed the plug was for a boiling vessel, but it may have been for a radio, although as I said it just went straight on to the battery, which I can't imagine would have been approved. I must have a look for the vents you speak of, I can't say I have noticed them before. The way AEC and Park Royal built the cabs I'd have thought the last thing you needed was a vent!

Here are some pics of the battery box arrangement in my truck, which I cannot vouch for as being original. The exterior of my cab roof was glassed over in a previous ownership (quite well, as it happens) so this has lost the roof vent, which I assume was to vent the batteries via some kind of trunking, thus avoiding cab explosions while the crew smoked! I have never seen any pictures of what the original fitment might have looked like, but the other Iain may know from either of the trucks he has in his collection. The cable you see does seem to be for a boiling vessel, but I suspect from the amateurish way that it was connected that this was an unofficial optional extra!

Very smart indeed Nick. It makes all your preparatory hard work worthwhile, you'll just need to keep it looking like that now.

Are you going to leave the boom extended and the jacks down so you get these bits painted too?

Can't wait to see the new paint job.

Did you ever get the tacho working? You could work out an accurate speed from that. You'll see from the manual that 45mph is supposed to be the max at 2200rpm. I find the handling is 'interesting' over 40 mph, never mind the deafening noise, and of course you always have to be able to stop the blooming thing!

Are you sure your speedo is reading properly... that's nearly warp speed, the circuits will never take it!

My passenger's seat has a height adjuster, same as the driver's. You can see it on post 42 on page 5, and the seat is the correct passenger one with the folding backrest. Perhaps mine was a GT model with deluxe trim! Keep us informed Iain when you get the beast back on the road and can compare the standard engine with the turbo version you had. Mine was very smoky when I first got it, but I found that using fresh fuel and Redex fuel additive has cured that, and it smokes very little now, even from a cold start. I am envious of your spare vehicle, shed, Eager Beaver and boundless enthusiasm! Cheers Iain C

I have never used the heater, usually drive with the window down, and I'm still deaf, so don't expect much change on that score! Iain

Iain, Here are a couple of pics of where my wash pump is fitted (in the passenger footwell). I found that my wiper motors were badly corroded due to water ingress, I assumed through the pump, so I have disabled it. Another problem is that the wash button air valve is now stuck in and of course the vehicle was designed so that this is just out of reach, like almost every other component! It would be easy to get to with the radiator out, so if you haven't refitted yours yet this would be a good time to relocate the button to a more accessible position. It will be interesting to see if you notice any difference in "performance" (I use the term loosely!) Iain C

Did you get it over that first cross member, or did that have to come off too?

Lovely job as usual, but I think I'd leave some more space around the fittings coming through the floor. If the wood swells and gets tight and the components attached to the gearbox move in relation to the floor you will have some very annoying squeaks and rattles, never mind the chance of damage to the gearchange bracketry.

It seems to have been an interesting place to visit. While Googling looking for any other pictures of this expedition I found details of another that Cambridge University did in 1957. I suppose this is all a no-go area now.