Sean N

That's the one I posted about in the 'whatever happened to' topic. Must admit had I realised it was for sale I'd have been tempted, it always was a nice truck.

Got used to that smell, with added bilge, recommissioning our M2 bridging rig - or should I say never got used to it!

Generally the advice is to use acid etch primer on aluminium, and be very thorough in the cleaning and de-greasing, otherwise you can get problems with coat adhesion. I've tended to use two pack etches in the past, from Trimite or Cromadex. You'd put a conventional primer over, then build up the topcoats.

Use a reputable make. Use the performance specification that was roughly current when your vehicle was built. Use the oil grade that is specified in the manual. Don't use EP if a non-EP oil is specified, or particularly a non-EP where an EP is specified. Note that the W.D. / M.o.S. / M.o.D. sometimes harmonised oil specs for convenience. Steer clear of long involved debates about EP additives and yellow metals - if in doubt, ask the oil manufacturer. I've tended to use Morris when I can and never had a problem, and they've been very helpful.

??? Sorry, I read you as talking about agricultural tractors. Antony, a 'tractor' is just a vehicle that's designed to pull something - agricultural tractors are just a specialist version. A 'motor tractor' in the Ferret etc. sense is a heavy haulage vehicle of a certain weight.

Rick, why is this still in Germany and not in your yard? And don't try to make out you haven't thought of it...

There used to be a Dingo down here that someone had put a Chrysler V8 (?) in and converted to a beach buggy...

Unfortunately, what you see it as doesn't matter - it's a question of what it is, or what DVSA / VOSA / HM Constabulary see it as. Spartan is a distraction as although it's CVR(T) based, it's a different body type - it might not look it, but as a 7 seater it's essentially an MPV! I started to write a long answer here based on my understanding and previous experience, but at the end of the day I'm not a road traffic lawyer and there are a number of reasons not to get into too in depth a discussion here, not least that Jack would prefer we didn't. At the end of the day, it's your call. My advice would be: Read Construction and Use (http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1986/1078/contents/made), the Road Traffic Act (http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1988/52/contents) and any other necessary legislation and guidance. Don't confuse what you think it ought to be and what it really is. A goods vehicle is a 'motor vehicle constructed or adapted for the carriage of goods or burden'. Shielder is designed as a load carrier. Draw your own conclusions. Don't confuse taxation class (essentially, what it's used for) with design (essentially, what it is) - the two inform each other, but aren't necessarily the same. For example, a Bedford MJ can be taxed private if it's used privately, but that doesn't make it any less a goods vehicle as far as driver licencing is concerned. Take legal advice if necessary. Be prepared to do something - change the body, fit equipment - to make it not a goods vehicle if you need to. Lots of people have registered lots of things as vehicle types or in taxation classes which sometimes stretch the definitions to breaking point. They may get away with it or they may not. Whether you do the same is up to you. I understood 'Tractor' as it applies to Ferret meant a 'Motor Tractor' i.e. a haulage vehicle, not an agricultural tractor.

Rick, that chromey Ferret wasn't one of yours, was it...?? :wow:

Make sure you're not confusing revenue weights, unladen weights and gross weights (doesn't sound as though you are, but plenty do) 3.5 tonnes gross for PLG only applies if it's a goods vehicle (which strictly speaking, Shielder is, being an HMLC) - if it's not a goods vehicle, weight doesn't matter for PLG. If you're using it 'as is' privately, Private HGV sounds like the correct taxation class - it is, after all, a goods vehicle being used privately. I don't know how things work for what is effectively a tracked HGV though. Normally the only way to take a goods vehicle out of the goods vehicle taxation classes is to make it not a goods vehicle by some sort of permanent modification. Have you looked at V355/1? https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/360119/V355X1_140714.pdf

Have been thinking about this. Has it ground to a halt?

Matt, the plate is about 3/4" high x 2 1/2" long welded to the waist line on the outside front left of the cab, and if they were consistent in the way they stamped them the format should be STAL II XXX

Sorry Barry, having said I'd look to see how they were fitted I forgot all about it. Glad you got it sorted. I'll check what I have and get back to you.

The hangars look like Middle Wallop's, and I'm not sure the hangars and fire station are in the right relative positions for Boscombe Down.

These work along the same principle as the wire straighteners we used to use at work, which were very good if set up correctly. Have to say, that Laser one is ludicrously expensive if the quoted price is correct, given that the industrial wire straighteners we used to buy were around that money and streets ahead in build and quality.

I hate needle guns. That's not a reason to use or not use them, but for me they're horrible, noisy, slow, inefficient tools that give you vibration white finger. Whatever you use, (1) don't go to B&Q, as even if you use kit they sell, you'll buy it much cheaper from a workshop or industrial supply type place, (2) wear tyvek disposable overalls and a good mask as if it's got original NATO green IRR paint on, the stuff they put in the paint to make it IRR isn't nice and you don't want to be breathing it. How far you take it down will depend on what condition the paint is in and how enthusiastic you feel. You may feel considerably less enthusiastic after you've been at it a while! At one extreme - sound, well adhered and relatively unweathered paint - you really only need to take the top layer off and key it. At the other extreme - lots of corrosion which is lifting all the paint, flaky paint right through to the base layer, paint that falls off if you look at it - you'd be taking the lot off.

Doug, I see the images in their entirety, both in the original post and in your quote of it.

Yes, that's the one. Face spanner. Locates in the holes in the sheaves. Anyone looking to do this job you don't need the proper one, an adjustable face spanner the right size from the likes of J&L Industrial Supply will do.

That would fit with the size and shape of the (what I take to be) large yellow scotches on the trailer. (Pass me a large scotch - hic!)

Must admit I'd take an NOS original cylinder - or even a good used one - over a sleeved one every day, and fit new seals if necessary.

Earthmoving equipment for runway building? Aircraft fuselages?

GMC 6x6 'deuce and a half' in use as a gunbus on the Weld estate, Lulworth. Very tidy too.

The two would not need to be fastened together. I can't recall how these are assembled - it's a long time since I've done one, most of the ones I do are Bedford which are assembled differently. However, is it possible that the parts are just corroded together? I think I have a couple of NOS cylinders, or instructions for same; if I do I'll have a look and see how they're assembled.

I suppose a fan belt of a different construction or material might be less prone to generating static. Difficult to know without methodical investigation whether that was the cause / cure or just snake oil, though. On the 680 block, it's evident that you have one hole corroded through from the water jacket and possibly another. You have to assume, therefore, that whatever the cause or prevention there is extensive corrosion in the water jacket. I'd say if you're going to end up with a lot of time and money invested by using this engine, and it'll be difficult to replace if there is a problem, don't use it. If you're not putting a lot of time and effort in, or it would be simple to replace if you do keep getting block leaks, give it a go. Have a good look at the way the hole has corroded. If there's just a hole, and there's little or no surface corrosion or pitting around it, then it's probably rusted from the inside. If (as you seem to describe) there's crusty rust and pitting around the hole, could it just be that rubbish and water have been trapped between the block and the tin cover, corroding it from the outside? If so, it may be a good indication that the block is fairly sound. You could also get one of the guys who does wall thickness testing, for example for testing pressure vessels, in to check the block walls over to see if there are other iffy spots.

Already too expensive for that, I think, as it's up to £5100. It's a nice looking thing, surprisingly, but it's just a non-original hotch-potch and I'm not sure I see it at the same money that some nice original vehicles are available for.