TooTallMike

Seat cushions arrived this morning and are now fitted, although I was growing fond of the flowery sofa ones...

Cheers Jim & Martin - looking forward to meeting you guys at Kemble :-)

Just a thought - it might be good to have a standardised HMVF flyer to hand out to people at shows. It could be something like an A6 sheet (4 to a sheet of A4) with the 'official' logo, web address and brief mission statement. If it was here as a download we could print it off as needed.

Thoughts?

I've just booked our group's cubicle toilets. £60 each for 7 days including one free pump out, £20 delivery, £20 collection +VAT. Well worth it if you've a group of people.

They also offer 230V power shower cubicles if you've got a generator!

I expect it'd be ok for a one-off journey with an empty trailer but it's not a great idea. I'd bolt through the top holes of the nato hitch and bracket, use wide washers front and back and use the best quality bolts you can get hold of.

Otherwise could you use 4 slightly smaller diameter bolts to catch all 4 holes?

Also don't forget to use a runaway chain just in case :-)

Richard, those 3 MVs are booked in, however as of today it looks like we'll also be bringing a halftrack for the day on Saturday. I'l point him in the direction of an entry form to bring with :-).

Looking forward to meeting everyone who's going to be there.

Richard,

Grasshopper and I will be down with 3 vehicles arriving Saturday lunchtime. We may have a couple of extra people on board. Will we be ok for passes? - should be a total of 4 people.

- Mike

From factory it didn't come with a RH mirror so whatever you do will be "wrong" as such. :roll:

You could weld, bolt or clamp the existing bracket onto the leg of the ring, but personally I'd go for the least damaging route and either put a thick spacer between the bracket and the dash panel to bring it forwards enough to clear the leg; or make a new longer arm from a piece of tube flattened at each end and bent to pass round it. You could also take advantage of the opportunity to make the arm stick out further than the original thus improving the view down the side and behind.

.. all others have a look at this on US ebay motors: 110127653647

I have to confess I quite like what he's done apart from the wheels and the steering wheel.

Hi Arthur,

Silicone is much better for vehicles which might sit for longer periods of time as it isn't hygroscopic (doesn't absorb water). DoT 4 holds water and can apparently promote corrosion. Silicone (DoT 5) is not compatible with DoT 4 so you'd need to flush the system completely. However the rubber seals are specific for each type of fluid so if you decided to revert to DoT 4 you'd likely have to change every seal in the system. I'd stick with silicone: in your case it may be the cheaper and easier option :-). Just make sure your system is fluid-tight. I'd also recommend flushing the system with new fluid until fresh (purple) comes out of every nipple. This will remove any contamination which may have built up in the existing fluid.

I'm intrigued about your vacuum booster comment. the original vacuum booster IS a hydrovac (cylinder approx. 300mm dia, 500mm length; see picture).

- Mike

Booby traps with water-based paint bombs plus bangers?

I used to run my GMC at 40 mph simply because I got 9mpg and it ran at 170 deg. If I ran it at 45, which it did quite happily, the temperature went up to 180 and the fuel consumption also suffered! Driving any slower than 40 made it hard(er) to get up hills etc. Using the momentum of the vehicle is half the battle.

 

 

My 352 also cruised very comfortably at a verified 40mph on the motorway and achieved better fuel economy like that than my friend's one on the same route doing 30.

My old one accelerated like a scalded cat.

Have you looked at possible vacuum leaks on the intake side? Easy test - with it running spray carb cleaner around all the joints and over the carb. If it revs up, you've got a leak.

Also check the governor isn't stuck.

I did find mine was very sensitive to stale petrol. I remember having had huge trouble starting it one day. It was very low on fuel and because I didn't want to kill it again I naughtily I topped up with a couple of jerrycans with the engine still running. About 30secs later the engine note picked up. It started fine after that.

Got mine too :tup: 8-)

We can start with a group pic at Horndean/Overlord in 2 weeks time for those who are attending :-)

Quoting Diamond T and Rogers combinations is a complete red herring as they are not an articulated rig.

 

Yes sorry, you're right. I was off on a tangent thinking about driving licences and from that point of view the requirements are the same for artic as they are for wagon and drag (ie. C+E). I've not heard that about the trailer being a load for the tractor. Something else to ask about at the test station...

Regarding an articulated vehicle, the trailer is considered a load for the truck even if the trailer is empty.

 

Sorry but I disagree with this too I'm afraid . You can drive an M26 Pacific and trailer unplated and untested and on a car licence ('B', pre-1997 licence) as long as it's unladen. Ditto a Diamond T 981 and Rogers, Pioneer and S&D tank transporter etc.

Well, after some considerable discussion in our mess room, my group are convinced a recovery vehicle doesn't require plating and testing in the case of towing a laden trailer because it is an exempt class of vehicle. The 'Goods vehicle built before 1960 and used unladen' part is irreleveant because it is not a goods vehicle, ie. it is not designed to carry a load (for the purposes of C&U a vehicle being lifted or towed is not a load).

I'm going to speak to a friend who used to be a chief tester and see what he thinks.

I remain open to other people's interpretations of the law but if I can satisfy myself that I'm legal I'll go ahead.

It sounded very smooth and quiet and although obviously not the fastest vehicle on the road, it seemed to keep up a steady pace and was still running nicely when they pulled up in B'ton. Lovely job.

Me be wuss (sometimes) :flower:

...we'll see.

To be honest, unless the forecast improves I probably won't go. We're going to call it on Saturday afternoon.

If it does get better we'll take the WLF and a Green Goddess.

I would seriously talk to Rex before contemplating even looking at a DUKW, let alone buying one. Having talked to him about this recently, he says you'll end up spending the £20k - £30 one way or another :-(. You can either buy a restored one or spend the money doing a restoration but the cost is similar unless of course you settle with doing a cr@p job in which case it's final value will be low. Sadly they go for the money they cost to restore.

I must emphasise that my reason for doing the engine conversion was not to do with fuel economy, that was merely a pleasing by-product of the conversion (in fact I've already saved back the cost of the engine in fuel savings). I did it because the original 22R petrol engine was hideously underpowered and the truck was embarrassingly slow. My mind was made up when we were in Bethune and I got left behind by the rest of the convoy going up a hill. :embarassed:

I've not driven a Dodge as I can't get my long legs behind the steering wheel but I imagine they must have plenty of power? If so, I'd go for a gas conversion as there must be lots of space under the chassis for tanks etc.

Engine oil is definitely a bit thick for many things but it will go and there is a danger for very worn diesels when a complete runaway can occur with a hot engine owing to the piston leakage when it starts to diesel on its own engine oil. Cutting the injection system with the stop system of course has no effect, you need to hope the brakes or some immoveable object is stronger than the engine and stall it.

 

I've seen this happen many years ago, quite exciting too.

A runaway (dieselling) engine still requires oxygen to burn the oil, so you can stop one by covering the air intake with a suitable piece of wood or metal. Rag is no good as it will be ingested by the engine and apparently the flat of a hand is definitely NOT recommended for the same reason :shake:. I have a suitable piece of ply stowed in the engine bay of my diesels. nb. covering the intake only works if there are no leaks further down the plumbing.

I'd say you'll be talking in the hundred's of thousands given what those already in preservation are valued at.

[Edited. Sorry. :-( ]

No red light though so it's not the 'correct' one for a Ward. Sorry! It looks like a fire engine one painted green but there were/are many different types. The guy says his ears are still ringing from testing it!

I have a possible lead on a genuine Federal Sirenlight that's making its way across the pond at the moment. I'll let you know Mark ;-)

Who is your friend? I expect that Steve might know him. I have not seen the Daimler yet, Tony and Steve made the HCVS run and had a good look at it. I was off shooting a BAR instead. Too many things to do, not enough time.

 

A few years ago we found the remains of an AEC Y type in Dorset and directed a chap who was restoring one to it for the axle and steering box i think it was. i wonder if it is the same chap.

 

All the best

 

Tim (too)

 

 

 

Tim,

They do know each other as we were talking about you guys in B'ton! I won't post his name here but they've certainly done deals in the past. Was that the chassis that was in a river at the bottom of a ravine and they had to use a tractor to pull it out through a forest? happy days... :roll:

Did Tony and Steve take a vehicle down or were they just visiting? I was parked almost next door to the Daimler Y, shame we didn't know they were there.