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Everything posted by bobs1918

  1. Al yes I have a copy of the original manual which was loaned to me from a member of the Dodge Brothers Club. I will post some of the interesting pictures found there in asap thanks bob
  2. Now body and tailgate are put together .Time to complete the riveting of body to the transoms. We would eventually take the body off the frame to complete this step.Bob
  3. Next step was to fabricate original style latches for the tailgate. To get the ball shaped handle I used a German mauser carbine bolt . The bracket was formed and riveted. Works like a charm
  4. Thanks I always thought they were due to the lack of sharpness. Thanks for the correction Now the photos that you have posted are easily recognizable for the repair truck . It is probably one of the first of the line . Note that the kerosene headlamps are not installed neither is the canopy top.Also I see that the data plates have NOT been riveted on bob
  5. The tailgate posed some difficulties in replicating the original hinges and latches. For the hinges I started with a large old strap hinge and modified it by adding a second layer of steel and shaping correctly.I built up the other end of the hinge similarly.The original is on the right. See earlier post for final tailgate result. bob
  6. The tailgate was made up with welded angle iron surrounding 12 ga steel plate with a second piece of 1/4 plate in the center to support the mechanics vise carried on the truck. These rivets were counter sunk so the tailgate when lowered would be a flat work station for the driver.bob
  7. Next came the four corner stiffeners and seat constructionAlways bolting into place before riveting. I should add that there was about 700 rivets used!! bob
  8. next the nuts were replaced with 3/8 HOT rivets..... 2 man job. Under the bed of the truck and tucked under the transom we used a jack screw to hold the rivet in place while heating and setting it. bob
  9. The pictures are artists renderings are the same as in the manual for the light repair truck. The reality was that both front and rears were the same on production trucks and on my original truck there are 7 lug wheels front and rear. .1 spare was carried on the side. The manual also states that only one size wheel/tire combination was to be used on the truck.
  10. After the frame rails and transoms were fitted next step was to begin to fabricate the steel panels which would make up the body. It is 14 ga steel. I had a local steelyard with large enough equipment make these and provide the proper bending at the top of the 2 side panels. These panels will later be hot riveted together but for assembly I used nuts and bolts. bob
  11. Gordon I do not think that once disc wheels were installed there was a return to the wood wheels.....Yes indeed discs were much more robust bob
  12. Pictures taken in Pennsylvania showed me the details as to the framerail's relation to the chassis and to the transoms...very helpful.I would eventually need to fabricate the correct brackets to duplicate the original configuration. bob
  13. Next step was as far as I got with the clone before locating the original m1918 truck.This was the addition of the frame rails and transoms which would bring the body of the truck level and raised above the rear differential.The manual specified these to be 2.5inch steel channel.I found this to be an obsolete size.Not to be discouraged I had 2.5 in square steel tubing cut to length and then I used a plasma cutter to turn tubing into channel. I followed with welding and grinding to true the rails and transoms and
  14. Hi First step clean up chassis. Remove gas tank brackets. Weld up holes. Find correct front and rear hubs to accept disc wheels...NOT EASY as these early Dodge vehicles almost all had wooden wheels with integral hubs, , restore chassis and fabricate splash shields on either side of frame....Roll it out for first rolling chassis picture.bob
  15. Hi Mate The cowl find was DUMB LUCK...When I started on the project I asked a US Dodge Brothers supplier, Myers Dodge Parts, if perhaps he had one and yes there was one in his yard and for $175.00 it was mine. Seemed no one wanted it!! It is identical to the one on the original truck. Myers also provided me with the 1917 chassis. Here is the inside view of the cowl. The dash is also unusual as it is the type found on commercial open cab trucks or screensides.....I located that in California from another Dodge vendor
  16. Gordon All of the US Army Dodge vehicles came with 7 lug Kelsey Hayes wooden wheels.The clone came with 6 lug Stanweld wheels which were passenger car type. Although most US vehicles stayed with the 7 lug wheels there are photos that show full metal disc types as were used by both the French and the Italians. I decided early on that if I could not get the unobtainable 7 lug wood wheels I would attempt to locate a set of discs.Dodge would not offer them on US vehicles until 1922 so these are actually 1922
  17. Thanks the build began with a 1917 Dodge chassis and a the cowl as used on Dodge custom bodied light civilian trucks.I would have preferred to use the commercial chassis but one was not available.Stripped the chassis, tossed out the the cracked engine and began the process to create a vehicle that had NEVER been cloned.The KEY to the build was finding a cowl.Without one the build is not possible. It is not simply the front sheet metal of a touring car.It is strictly for a commercial vehicle usage. bob
  18. Tony picture of the staff car is a restored 1918 owned by a friend of mine. Very few if any ww 1 vehicle guys here in the US.The model 1918 Light Repair Truck was built on the Dodge commercial car chassis.Dodge provided the chassis to the US Army and the bodies were built by theInsley Company which was primarily a builder of heavy equipment. I built the cloned truck on a passenger car chassis which has fewer and slightly thinner leaf springs otherwise the same. For that reason the clone sits about 1.5 inches lower than th
  19. Hello 5 years ago I began the project to create a rare US Army model 1918 Light repair truck on a 1917 chassis. I would use the manual for the truck as supplied to US troops..There were only 3 or 4 known to exist of the 1100 or so made. 2 years into the project I had the chance to BUY one the the original remaining trucks I did so and restored it to original condition. Now back to what I call the clone..........I decided rather than to build an ambulance body on it I would continue to fabricat
  20. Hello Richard, First my apologies for hijacking this most incredible thread. I am finishing the restoration of a US Army model 1918 Light Repair Truck. I am having the most difficult time with getting a paint color that seems "right" Any chance that you could share what you have on the US Army ww 1 paint??? Thanks bob Here is a link to that vehicle in its present color http://www.globalarray.net/user/bobspics/fdr2011a.JPG
  21. Hello from across the pond. friend showed me an RFC photo group and in it was the attached picture of the RFC tender I thought you all might enjoy http://www.globalarray.net/user/bobspics/WW1RFC.jpg
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