Jump to content

Pete Ashby

Members
  • Posts

    1,697
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by Pete Ashby

  1. Hello Jean welcome to HMVF, Niels is correct you have a mid to late 1940 cab 11 truck there it looks like a very good start for restoration congratulations :-). To be able to identify the truck as either a C30 or C60S a little more information may help people decide for example are spring helpers (secondary springs) attached to the rear axle ? what size tires are fitted are they original ? the frame number and type code was stamped onto a small data plate attached to the engine cover inside the cab do you have this ? Good luck with your restoration regards Pete
  2. Impressive :goodidea: keep the photos coming, I like your attention to detail. Pete
  3. I think this method of looking for HT was invented by some sadist training officer :argh::argh::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow: much safer with an old ministry Avo turned up to the highest range :-D regards pete
  4. Yep sure thanks Clive, I use the analogue volt meter method between the plug and block and look for the direction of deflection, the other method with the lead pencil never works for me I just end up getting a belt and never manage to see the flare. I think for most applications on 12 volt systems the 10 to 15% loss of HT is not such a big deal but I fully agree with you on a 6 volt system you need every volt you can squeeze out of the coil on hot cranking. Pete
  5. Ah yes indeed there is Richard, unhappy memories of burnt out replacement coils on BMC's back in the day :-( , I'm Ok with this one though checks out fine for - earth systems Pete
  6. Thank you Adrian, mystery solved, my French /English school dictionary was challenged with regard to mechanical/electrical terms I tried things like earth or negative :rolleyes: Pete
  7. I've just unpacked a 6 volt Ducellier coil and noticed the low tension terminals are marked Batt and Rup.....by default I can connect it the right way round as Batt is self explanatory. However I'm curious to know what RUP actually stands for I've tried looking up a French translation without any luck. I've come across + & - and SW & CB but never RUP any one know ? Pete
  8. Excellent work Rob very pleased to see your back on the Vulcan :-) regards to you and the Old Chap Pete
  9. Sad news indeed. As a mad keen 15 year old I first met Peter at a John Carter Shotersbrooke show in 1972 just after he had come out of the arena with his Hell on Wheels display team and I was signed up there and then to the MVCG. In those early days trips to Tarring Road in Worthing where Peter had his motor bike business to buy jeep spares was always a much looked forward to event and then there were the tours that Peter organised and these were instrumental in encouraging people to become interested in the movement and legitimized the collecting of military vehicles. Without doubt the MV world past and present owes a huge debt to Peter Gray he was responsible for opening a world to me that has produced a life time of adventures, vehicles, friends and memories. RIP Peter 'We know who you are' Pete
  10. Yep that was the case Adrian, I think the US changed the nomenclature in 1949 from ANC ANF to UNC UNF, for most common sizes the only practical difference being for some specific sizes the the male/female thread tolerance was altered slightly but the pitch and tpi in the main remained unchanged. Pete
  11. I think they are 5/16 UNC 18 TPI from memory Pete
  12. Looks good, I do have a soft spot for British 15cwt's congratulations :thumbsup: Pete
  13. My Uncle worked for Pressed Steel as a welder the plant was next to the Morris Cowley works in Oxford for many years. When BMW took over and the site was 'rationalized' most of the workshops and ancillary buildings were bulldozed. Most of the works site is now a shopping center, hotel and posh industrial estate. Pete
  14. Excellent many thanks Richard just what I was after regards Pete
  15. Doe anyone have a supplier for Layrub couplings ?, I'm looking for 2 couplings on a 4'' (40mm) pitch @ 0', 90' 180' 270' Thanks Pete
  16. Went on Saturday for the second time, excellent show from every perspective, the vehicles, the living history, amazingly detailed dioramas , excellent mock battle and last but by no means least the flying with Blenheim, Mitchell, 2x Mustangs, Hurricane, Yak, ME108, Spitfire, Seafire, ME109 Emil, and a number of bi planes all flying off a grass strip that you can stand close too. Well done the Victory Show :yay: Pete
  17. All I would say is that I have never seen Rubberlites in that position on the top curve of the wing. My preference if using them would be to mount them in the factory position on the lower wing..... at the end of the day it's down to your clients decision if he's happy then that's fine . Pete
  18. Just had an other look at the photos you posted when you first collected the truck Howard. I can see there are British Butler side lights on the wings this seems to be a 'field' mod carried out by the British for trucks that were issued prior to having the Rubberlite front markers factory fitted. I've seen the addition of these side lights on a number of early 11 cab trucks always in the same position on the top curve of the wing so I am guessing there was a field order issued for the modification either at the reassembly plant (Southampton or Slough ) or by local RAOC detachments. Pete
  19. All 12 cab and some late 11's had the rear rubberlites fitted to the front wings to act as marker lights/blackout lights. The cable runs through a small diameter metal tube along the top of the wing i used them for indicators with orange bulbs. If fitted you should be able to see the mounting holes on the wing and a small hole in the side casing that the wire runs through into the engine bay. The air intakes should have a fine round mesh grill that is fixed with small dome head screws into the front panel the mesh fits between the panel and the intake scoop. Dirk had the intake mesh as NoS at one time. A couple of photos for the mesh and front side lights I fitted double filament brake and tail to both rear positions and then used another pair of rubberlites for the rear indicators with orange bulbs, from the factory it should be two on one side and one on the other. This photo should make it clear
  20. Fuel filter would originally have been a Junior Military multi plate (identical to the jeep) fitted on the frame side rail under the cab but a modern in line will do the job just as well and will be easier to change when needed. Coming together now Howard looking very good indeed Pete
  21. I've always used the backing up method, sometimes a couple of shunts forwards and backwards are required although running on the soft after shifting out is equally as good. Even the modern stuff can suffer from it, my L200 can be difficult to shift out of low 4x4 on occasion. Pete
  22. Have a look at this for starters http://sucarb.co.uk/electric-fuel-pump-dual-polarity-6-volt.html there are others on the market if you do a search on the web. As for placement tucked up inside the frame rail away from exhaust and engine heat source is best on the common feed to the suction side of the manual pump. If you do a search on here I think I explained how the electric/manual pump system operates. Pete
  23. Assuming you have the original go Devil or WoF equivalent engine and T84 transmission clutch pressure plate, friction plate and release bearing is available from all the usual dealers either as a complete kit or as individual items and are not overly expensive. Pete
  24. I wired them to come on in the conventional manner with the front side lights and used that switch you mention on the dash to control a booster electric fuel pump that I installed under the cab in line with the mechanical pump for priming and hot starting. I would try Dirk for the sender unit I've had a look in the barn and I don't have a decent one mine are all take outs. Pete
×
×
  • Create New...