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beepbeep

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    Tyneside, UK
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    Engineering and Architecture

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  1. That’s ok. I’ve just realised from your spelling of tyres, you’re in the US? If so a lot of ‘European Returns’ have made their way back over the years. Your tyres may have been fitted in Europe but hard to tell, I’ve got Norwegian retread Goodyear’s on my Dodge and Swiss made Firestones on my GMC. Would be interesting to see some photos of your truck
  2. Did you want photos of my plates or of the OP’s plates?
  3. Here’s a link to a page with the address to write to for a copy of your build card. You’ll need proof of ownership and pay a fee. It’s ten years since I got mine so the procedure may have changed. https://www.command-car.com/technik/technikbuildcards.html If your truck has come from Switzerland it’ll have been painted dark grey at some time, if there’s no sign of that chances are that it’s not Swiss. Check your tyres as well, the make can sometimes help with where the truck came from. Mine came from Norway but the French Army also used them
  4. The chassis number indicates an April ‘43 build date as well, another pointer that it’s been a post war rebuild
  5. Just a guess but the plates are in German/French, there was a French Army rebuild factory in Friedrichshafen in Germany but the rebuilds I’ve seen from there have a CRAS plate on them
  6. No they didn’t, probably rebuilt post war in Germany or possibly ex Swiss Army but I’m not sure if they used Dodges. As Adrian says, photos would help
  7. I’ll get photos tomorrow and post them
  8. You should have started a new thread with this query but quick answer is a lot of US vehicles were rebuilt post war in France, Germany and the UK. My own 1944 WC51 was rebuilt in Germany in 1953 but has a US Ordnance rebuild plate on the dash and a German plate on the bed
  9. Yes, I’ve bought a lot from Jeepest, their parts are good quality and they offer a good service. As you say though French post is expensive
  10. They are still in business but they’re very slow to respond to emails. I’ve started emailing them in French and they do seem to answer a little quicker. As far as what they’re like to deal with, I’ve dealt with them for the past 9 years. It’s been a very mixed experience, some of their parts are ok but I’ve had some stuff from them which was worse than what I was replacing and I now only use them if they have parts I can’t get elsewhere. Also their shipping costs are horrendous, 27 Euros minimum charge for even the smallest part
  11. There you go, very simple but it worked. I made a dummy disc from MDF but it would be just as easy to jigsaw a hole in the board and use your disc. You say that with full adjustment of the free play you have one arm nearly touching the release bearing and two with about 5mm gap. When I adjusted my pedal free play to the factory spec (1 1/8”) I think that the travel on the release bearing was about 3/8”-1/2” before it touched the arms. You’ll need a digital calliper to set the arms and the spec including spring pressures, clearances etc is in TM9-1808A Chris
  12. I had a slightly dragging clutch on my Dodge when I bought it and on the advice of someone on the WW2 Dodge forum I adjusted the release arms and it did the trick. Just drop the clutch housing cover off underneath for access, the nuts are staked as already said but they moved easily enough and didn’t move any further despite not being staked again. Out of interest I’ve just totally rebuilt my clutch cover as part of a driveline refresh and made a jig out of 18mm ply and coach bolts with a dummy clutch plate made from mdf.......worked a treat! Chris
  13. From the photos, which parts are you missing? PM me your email address and next time I'm up at the storage I'll take the parts off and template them on a piece of A4 Chris
  14. Don’t think the parts are available but they don’t look too hard to fabricate. If you need any measurements etc let me know Chris
  15. Oh and I use RH Insurance in Essex, been with them over 20 years. We paid about £150 last year for me and my son on the policy
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