Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About ozm29c

  • Rank
    Lance Corporal

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Further to the previous learned RHD Jeep scholars comments I believe that you have two options are available to you. I converted a GPW using components sourced from a RHD version of the CJ3B which was sold here in Australia. Alternatively you can have the components made as per the attached photo. I have also added a number of photos for you to study. BTW the Jeep steered. well
  2. CMP, Sorry, I don't have a spare weasel carburettor but I note that Dave Yamulla still has them listed in his parts inventory. He also lists the carburettor adaptor. http://www.militaryvehiclesupply.net/list/12 Might be worth checking. For the flex hose I would try your local Jeep suppliers. They may have purchased it in bulk to be cut to size. I have attached a photo of the Carby for reference. Cheers John W.
  3. Doug, I guess I should have replied to your post over on the weasel forum but seeing that I am here, here is a thought. As an interim measure, why not consider having an aftermarket top made similar to Rob Walsh's efforts: http://forums.m29cweasel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2792&highlight=canvas The modern materials will most probably better stand up to your climate. I have a NOS top that I will only use for shows as the 65yo canvas is very fragile. As highlighted by many weasel owners, finding an OEM top let alone the take off hardware can be dufficult. Good luck and cheers John W.
  4. Hi Reo24, A little bit off topic but certainly related to your restoration. Back in 2007 I picked up the remains of an early closed cab CCKW that was to be used as spares for my Dad's CCKW resto. Unusually it had beams fitted to the rear axles in lieu of springs. The beams looked factory made and I always wondered if this was for a Crane truck??????? Yourself or other learned scholars here may finally be able answer this small mystery. Mandatory happy snaps attached. Cheers John W.
  5. R.I.P Peter. As an 18YO, I met Peter in July 1977 or should I say I just arrived unannounced on his doorstep in Worthing and said G'day. I was in Portsmith on HMAS Melbourne for the Queens Sliver Jubilee Spithead Review and decided to travel out to Worthing for weekend leave as I had heard from Jeep friends back in Oz that if I wanted to see some MVs in England, I should catch up with a fellow going by the name of Peter Gray. BTW just before we sailed for the Uk I had only just purchased my Jeep (which I still have today). Peter invited me to stay for the weekend and extended to me the best of
  6. Fellows, I thought that this would be a good place to put this ad however moderator please move my post if it is not appropriate. I have a 1946 Humber Snipe, Super Snipe and Pullman owners handbook. The outside cover is a bit worn but the pages inside are all there and in good condition. If anyone needs such a handbook for their restoration, please Pm me. Cheers John
  7. Here are some interesting photos I took of Japanese vehicles that are quietly rusting away in a museum at Rabaul. Cheers John W.
  8. Mark, I think it would be worthwhile to read Tony's blog over on the MLU; http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15575&page=46 Cheers JW
  9. When I needed wiper parts for my weasel, this fellow came through with the goods; http://www.wiperman.com/ Wiperman would be worth contacting for advice. Cheers John W.
  10. Hi Howard, Do you happen to have any pics of the small sealing panel/s that attach/s to the cab floor in way of the steering column and brake/clutch pedals? BTW great thread and great restoration work. Cheers John W.
  11. A weasel idiosyncrasy, stones 'tinkling' in the bogey wheels :-D:-D
  12. Hi thefoxhat, Could I offer some advice drawn from experience. In the absence of a body jig, try to secure your body, floors brackets etc to the chassis with as many fasteners as possible before welding. This includes mudguards bonnet and the grill. Then weld as much of the body as possible in situ before removal and completion of the the welding process. That way, when you go to reinstall the body after final fit out and painting, you know it will indeed fit correctly back on the chassis. Same drill goes with any body repairs, best to do them when the body is secured firmly to the chassis. F
  13. Hi Lightningcato, Welcome to the world of weasels. I would like to add my thoughts to the discussion regarding tracks. I agonised for years on the best way forward to outfit my weasel with a good reliable set of tracks so that I could run my weasel on road, off road and in the water. I was planning to refurbish my OEM tracks using the method pioneered by Tom at Snake river; http://www.snakeriver4x4.com/forsale.php however most of the rubber blocks on my grouser plates had gone hard with age and would have fallen off. A fellow from Carroltech; http://www.carrolltech.com/index.html g
  14. Degsy, How is the weasel going? Any updates? Photos? Cheers John W.
  15. G'day Degsy, Congratulations on your new acquisition and welcome to the world of weasels.:cheesy: Can I offer a suggestion as to a choice of markings. Why don't you do your country proud and mark your weasel with British markings. The weasel I have here at home has served with British forces but carried duel markings (ie both the USA number and the Brit "P" number). Anyway food for thought. I have attached a photo of a Brit weasel and the Suppy Mech data plate that was affixed to Weasels destined for the UK. Cheers John W.
  • Create New...