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Everything posted by Cel

  1. Same picture in b/w is in the museum at Ieper. I took a picture of the description that goes with it. Marcel
  2. Here is a link to a site that is mainly about stationary engines and tractors, but they posted a couple nice series of pictures about the production of war equipment during WW1. http://mototracteurs.forumactif.com/t18520p60-les-usines Marcel
  3. Here is a picture of a soldier of our village, I don't know where it was taken. Are there any Commercars of this type in preservation? Marcel
  4. Right you are! Looks like the crankshaft is still in one piece;) Good progress so far! Marcel
  5. Looking great, another milestone achieved! I also like the press very much. Is there any freeze protection for it, or is the water just drained after a session? Regards Marcel
  6. Same as above, if you can't attach some threaded rods to the flywheel or braces behind it to pull put it under a press. You will have to take out the crankshaft anyway I guess? It is not too difficult to make your own puller, just make it heavy enough. Here is an example of a puller that I made a few weeks ago. The bearing and housing had to come off together, no way with a classic puller even though it was a quality one. I spent a couple of hours fabricating one but the bearing came off in no time. The puller is now on the shelf for future jobs. BTW Steve, I think it was a relief when the
  7. Great work again on a lovely old lathe! Good thing that not all of these heavy old machines have been scrapped or exported. I missed out on a big facing late from the early 1900's a few months ago. Not that I have a lot of use for it but if I find one I will find a spot in the shed to install it. Another way of boring wheels (if a lathe is not available) is to put them on a radial drill. I did this with a tractor wheel a few years ago, with a homemade tool holder. Marcel
  8. It appears to be heavy enough on its own, so no extra support needed. I did not take a peak under the bonnet, there were so many things to see and time was limited. But it should look like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]91263[/ATTACH] Marcel
  9. Spotted this fantastic Renault last tuesday. It was fitted after the war with a double winch for cable ploughing. Marcel
  10. I don't see a problem in fitting slighty larger gears as long as they match correctly at the same center distance. Also check on displacement volume, more teeth means usually a smaller tooth depth thus smaller displacement but a few percents should not matter. I like Tom's idea, you could also check on hydraulic pumps and maybe find a pair of gears that can be modified. The brass strip is probably an earlier fix? Marcel
  11. The plastigauge sounds interesting, especially when you start with a bearing that 'fits' already. As you have seen I am machining the bearings of the Peugeot to the approximate size prior to scrape them in, so I have to measure them before I can start to scrape. From what I have heard a rule of thumb is 0.001" per inch diameter, or 0,01mm per 10mm diameter. Merry Christmas! Marcel
  12. They are for sale since may of this year. I enquired about them but at that time he said he had an offer of 1900 €. I have a trailer but haven't been able to find any info about it yet. Marcel
  13. The single long broach is still common practice. I have an old Butler slotting machine, made in Halifax. With the right broach and a dividing head it would be no problem to make the splines. Will have to do that in the near future and let you know how I get on with it! Marcel
  14. I did not go since the Peugeot was already sold before this sale. The Renault GU sold for €26000 plus 40% buyers premium!! Some pics here: http://mototracteurs.forumactif.com/t34898-dufresne-encheres-de-plus-de-400-machines Marcel
  15. Yes, turning the tommy bar and applying a bit of pressure by hand does the job. If you look at the second picture in my post, the seat on the left was in the same condition as the one on the right, less than 10 turns were enough to make it as in the picture. Marcel
  16. I have bought a set of valve seat cutters, tried it on one seat and it looks like they only need a bit of lapping afterwards. Luckily there was a cutter in the box with the right angle (45°) and that just passed through the threaded hole! I guess you can find one of these nearby, if not and I have the right size I'll gladly borrow it. Also acquired a Black&Decker valve refacer, I hope I can reuse all the valves but might have to fabricate a couple new ones. Here is a short video of it grinding a valve from an injection pump: Marcel
  17. Any idea what 'FN' stands for? Marcel
  18. If a hand push fit of a cast liner in a alu block does the job with the expansion of aluminium being more than double of cast iron, then a cast liner in a cast block should be no problem at all. A tight press fit would only be necessary if there were no possibility to put in a shim. Not sure if I would use loctite, if the liner has to come out for any reason that would be nearly impossible without damaging it. I am also not sure about the heat transfer rate of the loctite but if the liner expands more than the surrounding block it could cause serious damage (this is only a speculation, if have
  19. A job that needs a lot of patience, well done! You now have nice rails to start the assembly. With the cross members in place you won't notice any difference between the two. Marcel
  20. That is only one advantage, if you make several steps of the same length you only have to press it in for the length of one step which eliminates the risk of getting stuk halfway if you have to press it in over the whole length. Yes I am thinking on a shim between case and block, a sort of piston ring would be a possibility but with the piston dropping below and the liner so thin that does not seem the way to go. Marcel
  21. Hi Steve You should consider the stepped liner, it is a little more work but much less risk to get stuck halfway. Instead of a flange you could put in a thin ring between block and case. I remember you writing 'nothing like a good challenge' in the Dennis thread, no doubt you have one here! Best regards Marcel
  22. A friend of mine fitted a self-fabricated dry liner in an old Tangye engine. Instead of having the same wall thickness over the whole length, he gave it different diameters, the smallest on the bottom side. That way he didn't need to press it all the way in. Of course, the bore has be stepped as well but that is not too difficult. Regards Marcel
  23. Looking good so far! Is it an option to weld up the dents and grind/machine them down to original specs? Marcel
  24. Wheels look the same like this one but the axles not. It seems to me that very little is known about WW1 trailers, I am still hoping to find out more about my trailer which is believed to be WW1. http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=192239 Marcel
  25. Looking good! Amazing how the flywheel is attached to the crank by a rectangular flange. Just out of curiousitiy, what are the diameters of crankshaft, flywheel and bore? I guess the cams can be built up and reground, or you can make new ones and lock them in place. Regards Marcel
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