Jump to content

BenHawkins

Members
  • Content Count

    778
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by BenHawkins

  1. We drove the a drive pin in a short way at each end to keep the joints aligned. Obviously they ended up soldered in so I drilled them out. The holes were then cleaned up again with a 3/8 reamer (I was running short of time so used a battery drill on the hand reamer) With the help of the glamorous assistant we riveted the ends of the pins over to keep them in place.
  2. I put some primer on the steel pulley hub and that is what can be seen, the larger fan belt is positioned over the 16mm shaft so is minimising the bending moment on the shaft. The smaller pump belt (and presumably the lower power of the two loads) is positioned beyond the end of the shaft. We will need to monitor the pulley and see how we get on.
  3. Steve very kindly came over on Saturday to show me how to solder the propshaft! We cleaned up the surfaces and applied plenty of Tanacity No 5 flux. We filed small flats along the outside diameters of the universal joints to make sure there was a route for the solder to flow. The relatively short propshaft meant we could carry out the soldering at a sensible working height. Fire bricks were arranged to keep the heat in whilst still giving goo access to the joint. The slight lip on this end was considered to be a suitable lip to accept the silver solder. These fire bricks were given
  4. I drilled the pulley and hub, and tapped to suit 1/4 BSF bolts. The keyway was cut by using a 3mm wide piece of high speed steel in the lathe after carefully adjusting it to the centre height. After I purchased incorrect belts online the glamorous assistant managed to get some v-belts of the correct size from the local spares emporium. There should be sufficient Whittle belt in the garage but it probably needs a weekend of work to get it into a serviceable condition and I will probably always want to carry these modern belts in the tool kit just in case.
  5. It has been another very busy (slightly long) week but we are now having a little rest today without any truck work (apart from unloading the lorry and putting it back in the garage early this morning). The big machining job for this week was to complete the fan pulley. I mounted a large lump of aluminium in the lathe and bored the end out to suit the hub I machined the week before. Using a pipe centre to help hold it in place I machined the larger pulley and roughed out the outside diameter. After parting it off and turning it around I finished the fro
  6. Hi Steven, I am so pleased you have taken this on; it was on Gumtree several years ago and I would have purchased it if I had been able to get it home. 3035 is listed as "Haes & Eggers" who I believe were an exporting agent. The original engine was a 120x130 White and Poppe (number 4729) the same as in my 1908 lorry. The body was built by Dennis (number 3262) and the production date is recorded as 12-11-1911. I need to look through the works production orders as there might be further information in those. Despite the earlier chassis number it looks like it was finished slighter
  7. I have made a brass mount of a similar style to that on the brass mirror and the glamorous assistant has given everything a polish. I have screwed a piece of timber to the cab to support the triangular floor board on the drivers side. The footbrake linkage was binding very slightly so the return springs would not return it; the glamorous assistant has pushed it down several hundred times until it freed off. Numerous other jobs have been completed this week including filling the back axle with oil, packing the gearbox glands and topping up the gearbox oil. The lis
  8. The Aster engine has a tapered shaft protruding from the front of the timing case. The Aster engine, although made in Wembley was produced under license to the French designs. It has a 1:10 taper, a cut out for a 3mm x 5mm Woodruff key and an M10 thread to secure it. I roughed out a hub and carefully set the compound slide on the lathe to cut the taper. I then checked it against the engine taper with some engineers blue. I then put it back in the lathe to finish the machining. The flange lines up with the flange of the fan. I should just be able to machine an aluminium
  9. I then dismantled it all again so I could cross drill the shaft, ream and fit taper pins. I could then reassemble and test it all worked correctly. I looked on the Lee Springs website and found a spring identical to those I had but with two fewer turns (and therefore 1/2" shorter) were available so I decided to buy those as I think they are a better fit. That just leaves a problem with the clutch brake; the one I have will hit the return springs if bolted to the vertical face of the rail. The solution may just be an additional bracket to mount it from the top of the rail.
  10. Once the propshaft was in place I marked up for the brackets that carry the transverse shaft and drilled new holes in the replacement mounting rails. After checking that the lever I roughed out previously looked plausible I drilled the hole for the shoulder screw and shaped the eye on the milling machine. I made a new threaded rod to suit this pair of original Dennis clevises and fitted some replacement shoulder screws I had made in preparation. It was then possible to assemble it all and tighten the pinch bolt on the new lever. Without the clutch springs fi
  11. Thankfully the front propshaft and clutch release came from the Gosling fire pump, but the return spring arrangement was from the rusty remains of another engine. The fire pump had a hand lever for operating the clutch so there was still more work to do. The first part of the job was to try fitting the propshaft. The gearbox is a few years later and has a longer square on the input shaft. In the last batch of laser cutting I had a spacer cut so the square will not protrude into the universal joint. I didn't have sufficient hands to manipulate the propshaft into place and take a
  12. We put another gallon of fuel in the tank. The glamorous assistant choked the carb whilst I turned the engine over for a few revolutions. After turning the magneto on it started on the third flick of the handle. It seems like we nearly have the starting process sorted; I will have to refit the choke to the carb to give me the option of starting it on my own. MVI_4368.MOV
  13. So, I only had some of today to work on the lorry. The first job was using a 1/2" bolt to draw the guide bushes into the clutch. Then fit the studs to the clutch centre and fit it to the threaded clutch hub bush. A centre punch was used to produce a small indentation at the perimeter of the retaining screw (to hopefully prevent it from coming undone). Then the clutch was put in place. I am not sure if the studs should come out far enough that the nuts can be fitted with the springs at their free length. I have used cable ties to compress the springs but
  14. Thanks for the comments, it was annoying that I had to fly to Denmark on Monday morning so could not have another go with the engine. At least it gave me plenty of time to rest my starting arm. I got back on Friday evening and we drove straight down to Southampton ready for Beaulieu autojumble. The in service photo of the lorry shows a large brass mirror on the drivers side; I managed to negotiate this one for a sensible price. I also picked up the Claudel Hobson carburettor jets in case I decide I need to try another size.
  15. We then decided to try running the engine. It runs for about 30 seconds at a time, which at the moment I have put down to fuel starvation as I only started out with two gallons in the tank. I hope the video works (despite the poor quality). MVI_4364.MOV
  16. The throttle was more complicated, needing the pedal and hand control connecting. Also nothing really lines up so it required cranked rods. This is achieved with an intermediate lever. It took most of the weekend to sort all these linkages out so I was pleased to have it all finished.
  17. After marking up the shaft I cross drilled the shaft (using the milling machine) and reamed out for taper pins. Then connected it all up. At some point I will take the transverse shaft mounts off and finish machining them to shape.
  18. A slot was needed in the bulkhead so I drilled a row of pilot holes. Then drilled them out. Finishing off with a file.
  19. I had to make a few extra clevis pins and shoulder screws. The magneto is on the opposite side to the steering column so a transverse shaft is needed. I roughed some blocks to size using the shaper. Then scribed out for drilling the holes.
  20. It is a close match to the paint that was left under various fittings on the chassis, but that may have just been an undercoat. Later vehicles owned by Ernest Shentall were closer to maroon. I have chiselled out for the hinges on the tool compartment. The front has now been trimmed back and the whole lot given a coat of paint. To run the engine I need to be able to connect up the magneto and carburettor to the controls. I sorted out some of the pieces I have salvaged over the years.
  21. I put a gallon of water in the radiator and it started to leak out the lower flange and past one of the bolts. I let it dry out, pushed a little sealant in the gap and around the screw and tightened it all down a little more. It was a nice warm day so it was easy to tighten the clamps down to stop a couple of minor leaks at the rubber hoses. That just leaves two left; one from a welded boss and the pump gland. The welded boss was the drain plug when the engine was in a generator set; the manifold was up the other way and the radiator was mounted over the flywheel.
  22. The water pump is 1-1/4" but the radiator plumbing is 1-1/8" so I cut some brass tube to length in order to make the adaptors. I bent some copper pipe and soldered some fittings together to link the radiator bottom connection to the pump inlet. I then tried putting it all together. There is not much clearance between the fan and the pipe but it should be enough.
  23. I cut some 3/4" Sapele to length for the top of the seat. And six short planks for the front of the seat box. The long planks were dowelled together and braced on the underside. An access hatch was cut for the tool compartment. Access to the petrol filler is via a hole that was cut with a hole saw and then rounded off with the router.
  24. I then fitted the straight portion of the sides. And working out from the centre at the front I fitted the rest of the screws whilst pushing the zinc to follow the shape. There is a little undulation in the centre front but it looks good from ground level.
  25. I had the roof beading laser cut so it started out with the correct radius. I used a file to break the edges and countersunk the screw holes. The back of the cab was the best place to start as the zinc was happy to follow the curve. I could not shrink the zinc sheet so cut small notches between the screws to help the zinc follow the shape.
×
×
  • Create New...