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Kansas City

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Everything posted by Kansas City

  1. I am in search of the oil filter canister o rings for the 2.8 liter B-Series # 1-MK.5a Rolls Royce engine in an Austin Champ. LV6/MT1/GO/B27554 for the 4mm ring and LV6/MT1/GO/B2755 for the 7mm, 4.188" dia. Anyone know of a source for these ? Thanks James
  2. Thanks Clive, Without your reference material and your helpful messages I doubt it would have been fixed and I would be down the 12V conversion path ! Thanks again. Best wishes James
  3. Thanks Clive, Good news I have 28.8 Volts at the shunt having cleaned the shunt earth and batteries charging - Need to sort out new brown and yellow wire to the shunt but it is great progress- Thanks so much for your help. I have the Mk4 panel so only one ammeter. I could not have managed this with your help . Best wishes James
  4. Thanks Clive, this is very kind of you, I am pleased to report that the brown and yellow has a break somewhere and when I replace this I get a charging light on when the ignition is switched on which goes almost out when the engine is running. The brown and yellow goes to.a yellow in the shunt box. See pictures below of the difference of light brightness . I am not much good at electrics but I assume the very faint glow means one side of the light has more voltage than the other so a small current is flowing through the bulb . I do get slightly more volts at the battery 25.2 vs 24.9 when the engine is running. Does this mean the alternator is not working as it should as I would expect a higher voltage difference. Thanks James
  5. Thanks Clive, I do not have continuity from the Brown and yellow lead to connector E on the plug which goes into the control box from the shunt box. I do have 12v + on the brown and yellow lead at the charging bulb with ignition off. I do not have any connectors on the dash just a white to the charging bulb and the brown and yellow off this. I guess I need to make a connection brown and yellow into the shunt box from charging light to pick up the connection to the generator panel . The wiring diagram doesn't show the brown/ yellow going into the shunt box but it has to Thanks James .
  6. Hi Everyone, After sorting other issues with the Series 3 I am back looking at the charging system. I have followed Clive's testing flow chart as follows . Test one takes me to test 1(d) and I am stuck here. The test says to check for an open circuit between the double connector at rear of instrument panel( white lead) but I cannot see the double connector. Am I right in interpreting this test as it is a test of continuity from the white wire feeding the charging light to socket E on connector 2 ? Help with the connector is appreciated. I took a picture of the wiring at the back of the instrument panel and the wired wrapped in black tape is a concern. I am making progress titling ( registering) The Land Rover which is not easy as USA and UK Vins are not aligned so you have to prove at Highway Patrol the age- never a dull moment.
  7. Thanks Fulltilt, Interestingly whilst the indicators came on but did not flash when the vehicle was incorrectly + earthed once the polarity was corrected back to negative earth the indicators and hazard flashing all work fine. I am trying to work out where the positive feed going from the alternator to the charging light is coming from when the ignition is on but not running. I suspect a diode in the alternator. That Said I have the Mk4 generator panel which is supposed to have protection for starting and radio battery lead reversal. I am building myself up to running the diagnostic tests in Clive Elliots very informative article. Thanks James
  8. Thanks Chris, The charge warning light has both a positive ignition feed and also a positive feed from the Generator with just the ignition on( Oil warning light is on) so does not come on. If I apply an earth to the brown and yellow side the light comes on so the bulb is good . I get positive at the Generator side without the light one but without the engine running hence my conclusion I have +ve both sides. This suggests to me a Diode is blown but not sure which one/s The FFR has the FV760740 Generator and the No 9 Mk4 Panel which in your All Charge Up says there are diodes to protect the system if the battery terminals are reversed at the Battery relay - as this has happened the diodes should have protected the panel. That said a friend got me the FFR so I have never seen the charging light work so the Charging system may have been US before the battery leads were swapped. > I am not great on electronics but am working through your comprehensive article. Thanks so much for your help
  9. Thanks Clive, I will do the relay check. I have 24V on the brown and yellow wire from charging light to the generator when the ignition is but engine not running so power is flowing through the generator. Thanks again
  10. Well, I am a Brit who moved from the UK to Kansas City and eventually shipped over my FFR Series 3 . The shipping did involve some hassle with HMRC as it turns out even a 40 year old Ex Military LR needs an export license- a learn for me and the company I entrusted to do the shipping. On arrival in the USA I found the flashers not working and turns out whilst in storage in the UK the batteries were charged off the vehicle and replaced with the cables reversed making it a rare + earthed FFR. The charging system is now not working and I have Clive Elliots all charged up article which is helpful. I was wondering though if any experts know which components are most likely to be fried by having the polarity reversed ? Also is there anyone offering a repair service rather than track done old stock. Thanks in advance .
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