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TonyB

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  1. Totally bonkers but Champs are great, I’ve done a few back axles in the past and survived. And you would need a trailer for the outback…a fuel bowser. How about this’un? Comfort from the REME. https://silodrome.com/sir-malcolm-campbell-mercury-eight-overlander/
  2. I’m with Ruxy on the `get another Perentie and do it again` bit. It sounds like a great vehicle and the journey is just the job for it, and it sounds as if you enjoy being out there. Do you really need a trailer? I wonder if the load shifted when you hit the dip. Spares and tools are one thing but preparation is all. Again, you’ll be way ahead of me for Oz, but corrugated tracks mash everything on long hauls, so shocks, spring bushes, and tyre pressure maintenance are a vital daily check. We were rarely on tracks so awareness of surface changes, stony sand into feche feche, can avoid a spill. I used to enjoy the way our V8 109 would sit down on its rear springs when powering on through soft stuff. You’re making me jealous. Get a mate to go with you, or a dog or something, drink plenty of electrolytes and enjoy your talents.
  3. I’m sure you are way ahead of me, but deep bruising and dehydration rings alarm bells….and that trail of debris in your picture brought back memories. I’m told that it doesn’t do to dwell on bad stuff, yet that isn’t easy either. But when you’ve got (however bashed up) a set of tools, a Landie, and a sense of humour you’ll get by. If it helps, you must know how much shed envy you’ve generated. And just to be able to drive out into the proper bush must be inspiring. I don’t know what you need for Ozzie bush travel, sounds like you have good medical service. Once in a town called Tit (there are two Tits in Algeria, this was the bigger one) a couple of mates were laid up with some bug. A nurse brought in two kidney dishes with a thermometer and what looked like a small cigar in each. Mate number one popped the thermometer in his mouth to be helpful, the nurse looked surprised and said, `Sir, we do not usually put it there. ` Then they saw she was brandishing an applicator that looked like a bicycle pump and realised where the cigars were going too. She smiled kindly and warned, `serrer n’aide pas` which I think means Clenching doesn’t help.
  4. Just a thought, and I speak with no authority, but please tell us that you are being medically monitored now you are home Mike. I read that you live alone so if you experience headaches or tingly numbness in toes, don’t just have a beer and some pills like we tend to, get seen to properly. My experiences are from vehicle spills on the Tanezrouft and Hoggar routes which caused serious problems for people two and three weeks afterwards. Take care.
  5. That would explain the look of the paint Clive, brilliant, thanks. Perhaps the vehicle was brushed over when it was removed from Aldershot. At least it wasn’t yellow primer. An Italian Kegresse was shown some years ago which had the same rusty green patina, eau de nile describes it exactly. I thought it might be a base colour for vehicles out of use. Now I’m wondering what colour a Royal Artillery line-laying vehicle might have been, perhaps the museums have some records on inter-war paint. I’m just about to fit the track mechanism to the chassis but wanted to paint the components first, reduction gear casings and tension pulley system and supporting casing with new phosphor bronze bushes replacing the ruined bearings. It looks as if the weight carrying rollers were originally black. Then again, perhaps eau de nile would make a good over-all working colour. Thanks again, I’ll get to work.
  6. Hi, I was wondering if anyone can tell me what the paint is in the photo. I have scanned through the site because I feel sure it has been discussed before somewhere, but I couldn’t find anything. I noticed that several vehicles shown in the archives were painted this colour when found but not after restoration. Is it some preservative that vehicles are toshed over with or a proper military colour? The vehicle is my Citroen Kegresse which probably came out of the Royal Artillery. The paint is brushed on over metal and wood, the part shown is a track pulley support arm. Cheers, Tony
  7. Just looked at the REME Museum site and promised myself a visit as soon as covid allows. We tried to find some photos of the M9 to no avail, but found some others which are interesting for another thread, so thanks for the nudge. I think the tracks last about 1,000 miles on hard surfaces but cross-country is more interesting. Have fun. I’m enjoying your project and the detail in the pics, well done.
  8. Exactly like that Chris. Late reply because I got in touch with a friend to check on my memory. It concentrated the mind to drive it with that jib up Battersea High Street to Clapham. I thought that high back was kitted out with a wonderful REME workshop (lathe, pillar drill, etc) but my friend said that was an ex-REME Hippo from the same time. Happy days.
  9. So right Chris. When it comes down it, most of these vehicles are extremely fit for purpose which made them life savers under fire. I drove and worked on an M9 (I think) with a sheerlegs crane fitted to the front for RR Services years ago. REME, I think. I have a small military Turfa winch from those days which is useful for pulling heavy things into place and warms you up on a winter’s day. Good luck with a great vehicle,
  10. Thanks for posting this thread and pics Chris, it has been very helpful for my Kegresse rebuild. And inspirational because I’ve been freezing my bits off in the garage working out problems. Olyslager’s Half-tracks book explains how the US Army acquired a Citroen Kegresse P17 in 1931 and by the end of 1932 Cunningham’s had delivered a continuous rubber band tracked vehicle which was developed into the M2 by 1939. I’m sure everyone knows all that, but seeing inside your vehicle shows how much it is like my P10 but on steroids and sort of streamlined. A great thread.
  11. FWD? Front wheel drive? and it’s begging for some armour and a maxim or a 2 pound anti-tank gun. I’d buy one just for shopping locally.
  12. Aha, that explains the threaded tube inserts. I thought they might be dummy spark plugs or something to protect or prevent stuff falling into the head. And, of course, why they are called core plugs, which I only know as tap in blanks. Each little job completed progresses the final project, I’m looking forward to your post of the engine’s first run up. I suspect Mr Malenik would enjoy what people on this site do in their home workshops, have a look at the Czech bikes he built from photos. Meanwhile I did only 4 tons of floor this week. After losing my voice last weekend I’m taking lime powder more seriously than ever. And EP 90 doesn’t work as a hand cream. I’ve been learning about side thrust on bearings in track mechanisms and sacrificial balls. Ouch.
  13. There was a U23 French army lorry for sale in Bognor recently at what seemed a good price. It has probably gone but the seller might have or know of bits for sale or have contacts for that vehicle. I just looked it up, daveateastlake@gmail.com (07931433151) Good truck, good luck.
  14. Those seals are a good find Alastair. It’s the best feeling when a search for an obscure part results in the discovery of dedicated and helpful people, and Newcombe’s sounds exactly that. One thought, if the plugs hold the spark plugs would the thickness of the new seals affect the reach of the spark plugs? Or is there enough turbulence in a combustion chamber of that era to render that degree of accuracy pointless? I’ve managed to mix and lay about 5 tons of floor this week and inhaled enough lime dust to kill any virus around. I wish I had my Kegresse running to haul stuff around. But seeing the bits you are making reminded me of someone who inspires any rebuild project, and there’s a metal spinning lathe, https://theoldmotor.com/?p=129022 Power to your elbow
  15. Thanks for the description of the Renault timing mechanism Alastair. While modern adhesives and materials have replaced the keyways and machining of early engines like yours, it is always a joy to make them work. My flywheel has top and bottom dead centre marked but it isn’t keyed to the crankshaft, plus it has ROA and RFA??. Stuff gets in the way, like your fence painting I have several tons of floor to put in and our local labourers have `gone Covid`. That seems to mean they aren’t available or cost twice the price, so I’m chugging away at it with little time for anything else. Regarding the gaskets for your plug caps, I’ve seen them sealed in with stove gasket paste or stove string, looks messy and I suppose was once asbestos. Also crushable copper washers. Perhaps the Vintage Car Club would have a supplier, but Zuffen’s exhaust gasket idea sounds good if it will stand the twisting motion when the cap is fitted. Citroman is right about the wheel nut similarity, mine are 19mm nuts marked G (gauche) and D (droit) on 14mm studs. They used lots of left hand threaded nuts. Just right for your engine stand.
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