Messier4715

The plate is specific it appears to scorpion-sabres-scimitar turrets and may even have variants for figment in those turrets. If and when a plate is acquired a thick ribbon style earthing strap is needed for both sets if I recal right, like G8 says isolated for vibration by the rubber mounts.

#edit: so this plate is a flat sheet but I think it is a wolf rig# https://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/radio-runners-mounting-plate-4815-p.asp I’m not sure but it’s a start? Also part number: In un issued condition.Stamped for 351/2 353 320 321.54cm by 27.5 cm approx. this maybe a wolf plate but I bet they use the same thing, I’m doing a lot of gambling tonight lol

I just checked my cvrt family afv publication 04 under radio equipment fitting it’s states very unhelpfully ref supplementary publication and from what I can surmise as I believe you have the support publication my last gambit would be a sign publication because the army’s like that “ the plates signals figment or isolation plate so it’s a signals thing” I will dig more.

When ever we used to draw these radios out it was just that then you man handle them into the mounts locate them in the tabs and screw / ratchet then in now it’s been a while but all I recall is the rails and tabs which are shown and I’m not sure what plate is missing as the second image depicts the mounts then the set coax together connect the antenna and power and internal comm? Edit: ps I’m daft I take it back the shelf the twins are mounted too !

When they introduced the the changes on the front of the hull we where told it was a armour upgrade along with stronger heavier deck hatch’s with plates on the side hull between tracks and extra under hull for mines but to be fare the mines ripped these apart so sand bags where added older sabres are thinner slightly armoured.

i did my training in bovington 2000. I think the tiger was there at the time or in restoration but on subsequent training courses I went to the tank museum and she is impressive in scale and presence even with modern tanks if anyone is thinking about it after this lockdown nonsense is over highly recommend it.

Sherman 😜

They look like the slide for don10 reels used in op hides that runs out a field set hand set, to run through he vehicles on board comes and crypto out to higher or other units/ troop commanders or simply to the crew from the op operator. Fun fact each vehicle could be used as a signal booster sets being chain linked together like a repeater over Lang distance, I do love a good tangent.

sorry my pain addled brain got two people mixed up was not writing that to you I read too posts mixed you up thinking you where the other guy, I know you know all about it was not being condescending just broken still on all the crap Headley court set me off on. Tad embarrassing. Suppose won’t be the last on this shit. ( just didn’t want anyone hurt)

Mate how the hell, I still haven’t made my mind up if I want a kettle in the office yet, joke aside has it got the rubber strap? And the clasping hook? And bit of a warning for future. In support troop I was big guy so I got parked at the door and thus brew female dog, as a soldier I expected hard ships etc, however BVs are boiling vessels not a kettle it will boil over if the power cable is left in also the lid is snug but pressure builds and the two container clasps are shite so the over the top thick strap will prevent it bouncing around the hull but more important lessons scolding if you had it on before you moved out these things keep heat a LONG time. The splutter at pressure also that tap will eventally leak but it’s fixable, trust 10 years of these things burning me in a turret or in a hull. BVs are boiling vessels for cooking and second hot drinks if you hear it hiss disconnect the stupidly big power cable don’t open but if you need to, leave the rubber over strap on and realise the smaller catches one at a time realease any pressure let it sit for a minute and enjoy, oh yer don’t run it empy or put a tin of beans in it napame. These are all the advice and memory i have mellow dramatic as it sounds have fun don’t get burned 🥵 😛.

Omg you missing the BV how do you get any work done!

Scimitar has two hull isolators one in drivers left side and the other in turret due to two battery banks however if not radio sets are present I’ll not presume the drivers masters witch is the important hull set. Hand brakes a ratchet type left side along side the tillers and a black knobe on the hull sponson this is your forward reverse blipping the throttle and pushing it back or forward can assist in smooother directional change, point to note forcing it in will work but not recommended as internal wear can occur in gear box tillers are pull type neutral turn is by one or other tiller pulled to you in neutral indicated similar to I think 432 left side drivers( 1-7forward Neutral 1-7reverse) service as manual indicates and pay serious attention to final drives NEVER run them dry get religious about halt parading them ie stop for brake check need a piss check, commanders being a cock brake check his face into canola sight get out laugh and check. 30 mph drive locks if your lucky you pirouette in mud or grind to a halt expensive bill, 60 mph on road and locks well let’s say bro’s in hull holding on bracing as in a crash turrets spin so travel locks on, side note you will have to turn turret to fill diesel tank left rear. I’m being dramatic these vehicles are fast for what they are maintained well great fun. Spotty maintenance gets expensive or a death trap potentially not for you but anyone outside on the roads.

If I recall the engine is a detuned etype unit correct me if I’m wrong, I always thought how it would have changed the saber/ Spartans tourque, word of working I think they detuned it so squadies didn’t race each other and improve the lifetime of the rubber torque donuts ( cannot recall the couplings name) etc

some ref material if it helps anyone.

I have a small affinity for Spartans been in and out driving and was just done with some of my commanders course before being medically discharged. One day I’ll have my own ( be easier to drag my ass in haha) rig some hand control for gear up down and I’ll be sorted the lands that I served with live local and they love the old girls as much as I do. When this is all settled (corvid19) I would love to try see a show or what not, anyway lads and lasses chat soon. Trust your all well and safe.

Thanks v much, I am trying to learn as much as I can to stay safe and keep her running! So all of the checks and stuff that I need to do come as welcome advice!! So I need to check the wheel hubs regularly for oil leaks. Will get my manual this weekend and make sure I add it to my checklist, thanks v much. Any other advice most welcome. I can't take any credit for the rebuild, MVS did it and I only bought it from them 🙂 I bought some headsets and have a helmet to stop me banging my head on the mantlet! Hay Alex yer keep the wheel hubs topped up BUT the main safety check are the final drives go to the front of the vehicle on the hull at the front are the final drives which are external to the gearbox and independent of the oil lubrications system hence why you #NEED#!! To keep them topped up. it easy to locate the final drive Bell housing it is the mount for the sprockets, at the front of the bell housing you have two plugs near the to the hull they are quite big and brass I think some variation on the top plugs being deleted, getting to the plugs you may need to bed the mud flap guard up but we used to bend it at a angle on the sides and leave it for access a little more access over a bit more mud no contest when you have to clean in there to check. Now you have to pick and chose your halt parade location but as long as it’s relatively flat plus the suspension will help level the hull you can start, crack the plug if oil runs down the threads of the plug and is in a good condition replace the plug. if it’s not running out inspect your plugs crush or flat copper seal see if it’s bit the dust, if not top up the drives to the plug threads. The drives consume oil ( omd90 or om90 check), steadily so that’s why it’s important to keep them fed always have a full oil filler pump can with the long tube neck on ‘any’ run you do letting a unit run dry may or may not cause a accident but you will junk it and need a rebuilt of bearing because think about it the final drive literally holds the weight and forces of the track system. Even sitting oil can drop cvrt hate to sit fyi so when you see her next do your checks check tract tension as that will drop check all oils look for pools in your road wheel lips good indicator and a circular splatter is a give away in a run to , check charge in hull and turret battery’s hope you turned your master switches off in turret hull lol. Happy to help Alex. craig.

Hi Alex wow, Looks as good as a base refit, that white lower hull looks so nice sad it lasts as long as the first muddy boots scraping its sole over the back of the gear pedal🤦🏻‍♂️, did you have to sauce new handbrake belts or are they original, did it come with the nbc system under the rear lower bin *cough*armour door. Such a nice build Alex I’m excited for you to get her on the road, word of warning you need to do halt parades on these girls if you drop oil from a road wheel hub it’s a rebuild at worst best a top up, but I cannot stress final drive levels it has to be like a religion you seize a final drive hub best case you need a wrecker recovery worst case you spin doing 60mph or arch in the direction of the now still track, you will most likely be ok ish anything you in well.... yer you stop you check put back of hand on your hubs, I doubt you will do much long road runs but you get the point, you need comms and ear protection you probably know but so does anyone you take out.., 10 years of useless information has a use again 🎉