gps

wot bean tin dont like beans,prefer soup :-\

mark is geting there hopes to fit engin next week if not in work.

yes i will, there is less to hit your head on :argh:.there is about 3mm of movment in the pinion shaft up and down so beter do it :sweat:

looking good thor :-D not long now mate and she will be all green again :yay:

just out of intrest ,do you need a firearm certificate to hold deactevated wepons or replicas.:???

when i fit or remove the engine i used to lift it over the front crossmember an lower it in tilted. doing this way i found that it was very tight and would hit the bulkhead,so now i put 2 bottle jacks between the front axle and chassis, jack up until you can remove the front spring pivot pin.Then raise the shassis until the crosmember is clear then unbolt the crosmember and remove. now it can put the engine in or out level i found it alot easier :-D

today i started to take out the engine to fit the new but modified bellhousing and drive coupling to the gearbox . JCB got a puncture so could not lift out engine today :sweat:here is some pics of so far.

hi declan303 and welcolm, you will find many things of intrest on the site, i have bean a member for a few months and still got a lot to look at ,its like beeing a child in a sweet shop :yay:

i have now got an adjustable hollebone, the pins and shackles are missing . so today as i was doing some turning i machined up some pins. is there supposed to be 2 or 4 pins that lock the poles at its lenghth :???

no but you cant miss them ,they wear a high vis jacket and have a note pad and are shouting at us to stop having fun.:argh::argh:

the big nut had come undone when the split pin broke ,this allowed the pinion to smash back and forth so smashing the front pinion bearing and snapping the oil pump shaft :argh:. i took the pump out of another axle and put into no nuts to keep her going.:sweat:then i took the bits apart and managed to find some bright steel to make the new shaft, worked out the taper ,cut the thread ,drilled the dowel hole and cut the keyway this took longer than the rest of the job. had to do the keyway on the mill took a while to set up and find the right tooling. im happy with the result :-D, would of preferred silver steel but all to small :-(

today i finally got geared up to do the oil pump in the rear axle :sweat:.here is some pics :-D.

i have three sets of clocks from which i have made one good set , i have noticed that they have got different brass caps over the light, which one would be for 1950 also the needle centre is chrome others just black :-D the original set in the lorry had three layers of clock faces on the fuel gauge ,each had a date some initials and a signiture,what dose this mean ? :-D

i hate to brake it to you but according to health & safety neither are acceptable for service :-D.

tha axle may of been over filled as each of the walking beams should only have 5.7 Litres a total of 11.4 litres other than that they can leak through from the diff so over filling the walking beams .mine was doing the latter after a while it stoped ,i think the leather seal plimed up with the warm oil :-D

yes they are the same ,there is two seals per hub both the same size :-D sometimes the hub shaft is pitted where the seals rub so leaking. the easiest way out of this is a sleeve on the hub shaft :-D

hi this picture of the t bar look the same as the one used on matadors. do they come in differant lengths like straight bar and hollybone depending on vehicle :-D

kind sir is there any pictures of the indivdual items or layouts :-D i could read the items on the picture but did not know the terminology or abreviations of them :???

thank you got none of it but for the ground anchors and 25 tone snatch block and rope shortener rest to new :???

is it :confused: . im sure you like a challenge :-D

i know what you mean my shafts were both from duff boxes .i could not get my hands on the rubber metalastic couplings . i heard that thy were still making them in japan for boat props :confused: spent 2 years trying to find them before through necessity having to do what i did half way through the rally season.:confused:

i can give the manual part no. then i would talk to chrisg done me well. oil seal(type "Weston"W 71952562/N) . M.T.or propriatary part no LV6/MT1/CW/W71952562/N/SSS :-D Hope this helps

i to was concerned about this ,i did consider welding it but was worried about changing the properties of the shaft and if the MK2 dose not work there could be a MK3 same as yours still using the same shaft. i was told by the prop company to have a round flange to bolt the prop to as the cross would expand uneven puting undue stress on the bolts allso the cross dose not have enough room to machine the recess to locate the prop. but tell you the truth it is all experimental as we are all trying to do the best we can with what we have available.

a 9" angle grinder and 2 discs, the last cut was hard going as it would try to pinch the blade as all i did was drain the oil and start cutting. then found out that the box would not come apart ,then had to dissasemble the box (easier if the box is in one piece) :-D

from what people have told me they were all issued with a set amount of kit, this gets added to according to aplication.:??? i do not have a list of either :confused: .