raeross

Hi John, Thanks for the pictures from the manual. I expect they will be very useful to everyone doing this work. As I was going down the wrong path at the start, I appreciate everyone's great advice on this. From what I had read, I thought the step of splitting the rims was the biggest issue, not removing the RF insert from the tire.

Hi Robin, If the tires are not being salvaged, what about cutting them in half with a Sawzall type tool? You could use something like a scrap of 2x4 to spread the side of the tire away from the insert.

Hi Robin, I was looking for Ferret hatch springs on another forum and I was provided John's name as a possible source. the email I was provided was: j.dews450@btinternet.com. Best, Robin Ross

Hi Robin, Fortunately I have never encountered this problem. As the originals were welded, wouldn't grinding down the old weld flush and welding on a piece of appropriately sized rod bent to shape work? Robin

Hi Clive, Yes, you are entirely correct; a much more complete explanation. I was trying for the much shorter version. Robin

Hi CivPop, Though not a 'technical' response, and I welcome any corrections. I never was a vehicle tech and I am working from 20+ year old memories of vehicular radio installations. I believe that the Earth would go to shielding to suppress ignition noise. From a quick google, I did not see any advertised penthousewiring that seemed to be shielded; however it the same lamps were used inside CP vehicles, they would have had shielded cables. You can probably connect C to vehicle ground; it will likely carry the ground between daisy chained lamp units.. You could solder a short (10-15 cm) wire to pin C, on the vehicle mounting point. Attach a ring connector at the other end and then connect it to one of the mounting screws for the vehicle side connector. The vehicle end connector is likely a female type as in your top picture. Robin

Hi Gents, I came across this older post that seems to answer the pin wiring information http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/28153-which-cables-are-used-to-power-a-penthouse-lamp/ The pin information was from EMER WORKSHOPS F100 Chapter 105 which gives the conventions relating 3-pin 24v connections. It appears that the pin opposite the keyway is +ve Pin B, Pin A -ve, Pin C earth. I hope this helps with the wiring at least. Best, Robin

Hi Ozitim, Thanks for checking your supply. Robin

Hi Ozitim, Sorry about that, here is a picture of what I am looking for; in the parts manual is identified as; LV9AEC/FV9814 Eye, lifting it is item 31 on sheet J1. Robin

Hello Fellow vehicle restorers, Though not a major item, I am trying to track down a pair of lift rings for my Daimler Ferret. I have perused the online suppliers without luck, I an reaching out to the community to see if anyone has a spare pair,, or perhaps knows of a suitable replacement and supplier. Thanks for any assistance and information. Robin

I think that REME Depot in Texas has started, or is investigating, manufacturing wheel hub seal kits for the Ferret. As I recollect they were looking at a single kit containing the inner and outer hub seals for a single wheel station. REME Depot's website is at: http://www.remedepot.com/index.php. Though they do not show parts on their parts page, you can reach out to them by email at Skip@REMEDepot.com, or by phone at 713-540-6220, and they should be able to confirm if they are making hub seal kits.

Hi All, I am going to be in the same hunt for the gasket around the rim for my Ferret battery boxes. One is not too bad; the other is totally perished. I was thinking of using some casting silicone and forming a gasket in place. I was also perusing my local auto supply place for likely candidates for rubber plugs. I thing the ones in the lids are ok; however I need the one to let the cables pass through the lower battery box sides. I will let you know what I find.

I am trying to remove the rear vision flaps on my 1954 Daimler Ferret Mk1, so I can get into the nooks and crannies and clean and paint the inside.I have three of the four pins out; however I am having trouble freeing up the upper outside pin. I have tried WD-40, and tapping it with a hammer; however, it doe not seem to want to budge.I want to see if anyone happens to know a trick to removing this that I may not know about before I try the rougher methods of; heat the hinge with a torch, or grinding the ends off and driving it out. I would rather not have to track down, or make, a replacement.