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Alastair

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Everything posted by Alastair

  1. Happy New Year to everyone. I am sure I am not alone in being frustrated in not being able to lie under other peoples' cars to answer technical questions for ones self. I am still supposed to be working on the Riley but I cannot help eyeing up the Renault alongside from time to time. As a result of a most helpful article by Ken Goddard in the latest Veteran Car magazine, I now know in broad terms how the rear universal joint works on the propshaft. I had been puzzled by the big lump of metal I have that carries the pinion. It was clearly for a universal joint and I now know it co
  2. I have failed at this sort of thing because the coach bolt threads are rolled. The resultant thread is the correct size (16mm in this case) but the shank is undersize.
  3. Well, as I said previously, other commitments bar me from working on the Renault for the time being. That said, it sits alongside the Riley I am supposed to be progressing so I have strayed from time to time. You will have seen in the Peerless thread the splendid work that Andy Pugh did on my exhaust manifold. The first thing is that I have always been bothered that the back axle ratio is more suited to a commercial vehicle than to a car. I calculate that the top speed will be 21mph on a ratio of 5.7:1 whereas the cars are more likely to have a ratio of 4:1. I then came across a f
  4. Well it is a 10HP Renault that I bought in Australia 20 years ago. I am supposed to be working on my 1934 Riley which I bought 33 years ago but I ran out of wood for the rebuild of the wood frame so I dragged the Renault out of the bushes and rebuilt the engine (see separate thread "10HP Renault"). So, not being able to resist your request for a picture I cleared a considerable amount of tut from the chassis this afternoon. The first picture shows the rear end of the chassis. Ignore the casters; the vehicle came with none of its original wheels. Everything wooden, including the bo
  5. It was on my 1910 Renault manifold that Andy kindly cut the new thread for me. What he did not mention was that he also made a new union to fit as well. Thanks Andy Alastair
  6. Things are going to move slowly on this project for a while as the upholsterer for my 1934 Riley Lynx has given me the hurry up. The problem is that I am only part way through building the new wooden body frame (the car had nothing rearwards of the front doors) and this is a job that is proving to be almost beyond me. However, with the kind help of Mike Smith I had the makings of the gaskets for the valve caps. All I needed to do was solder the four together, turn the inside and outside diameters to the correct values, unsolder them and fit them. Note to self: do not wear shorts when y
  7. Actually the seals are for the four core plugs at the tops pf the bores and are 25mm I/D. These core plugs sit in the water jacket and each one provides a fixing to hold the top water manifold down. The other seals (that Mike Smith kindly supplied) are for the caps over the side valves. They are 66mm I/D and the spark plugs are in the centres of these caps. I am very impressed with your concrete mixing efforts. I have never mixed 5 tons of anything but maybe some of my colleagues in the defence electronics business may have said that some of my work reminded them of 5 tons of somethin
  8. I have now solved the problem of the gaskets for the core plugs at the top of the cylinders. I went to Newcomb's, a well known motor bike shop in Chelmsford, and they supplied me with asbestos based gaskets, which fir beautifully. In the course of conversation they told me that they used to make motor bikes, were still in the family and the oldest one they could show me in a picture was dated 1903. So I know of two motor industry concerns in Chelmsford, them and Clarkson's who made steam busses.
  9. The perils of typing while trying not to disturb others watching television are that you can miss words out. When I said that my brother owned two examples of the marque, I should have added "Autovia".
  10. Tony, I like your suggestion of stove string. My brother, who owns two examples of the marque, let me have some spare exhaust gaskets. The hole is just too big (but would probably do) so I may take up the gap with stove string or paste. There is no timing mark visible when the engine is assembled so I took the oportunity of marking the front face of the fly wheel while I had the chance. For the bigger gaskets, Mike Smith kindly sent me some copper gaskets that will do the job. This week's exercise is to find a metal spinner to help in the making of the new fan. Pictures to foll
  11. Tony. I buttoned the timing case together without photographing the timing marks. The crank shaft gear is steel and is keyed on and then a taper pin is fitted through both parts. Unusually, the taper pin has provision for a split pin at the narrow end. Maybe Renault had problems mating the tapers of the holes to the pins so added the belt to the braces. The cam shaft gear is made of brass. The crank gear has a scratched mark between two of the teeth and the cam gear has a center pop on one of the teeth. Lacking any other marks, and not having made any myself when I took the engine a
  12. Thanks for the support, Tony. Yesterday I did a number of small jobs (more broken studs etc.) and one major one. With the help of my brother Peter and a chain hoist, we dropped the cylinder block down and inserted the pistons. I have left it an inch up as I want to spend some time checking that the mating surfaces between it and the top deck of the crank case are still spotless. Right at the beginning I confessed that I had never worked on an engine of this type (cylinder block+crank case+sump) before. I now know that it would have been much easier if I had built it upside dow
  13. The fence is progressing well but yesterday had a number of rain squalls. I took this as nature's way of saying I should work on the Renault engine. I found the correct grey colour and have been painting the cylinder block and other bits and pieces. I decided that it was time to fit the pistons. You will see in the picture below that the rings are very wide by today's standards. I was missing a ring from each of two pistons so have had to fit double narrow rings in place of the wide ones. the pistons otherwise are unusual (to me) in that the gudgeon pin is held on place by tw
  14. David, Here is a picture of the top deck of the crank case. It shows the eight cam followers I was trying to describe earlier. Between the two sets of four can be seen the top hat bearing for the oil pump drive shaft. To the right, the brass tube is a sight glass in which an indicator could be seen (if I had taken the picture from a favourable angle). This is a brass ball on top of a rod which emerges from the sump. The rod is attached to one end of a bar that pivots at the other side of the sump and has a float in the middle. Thus the indicator gives the level of the oil in
  15. Thanks for the encouragement Tony. I do not know much about the contemporary Citroens. I once saw one with a 1924 clover leaf body but no engine. Alastair
  16. All 8 valves are mechanically operated. The four holes you can see each take an assembly with two guides for two cam followers. I'll include a picture next time. Alastair
  17. I can not answer your question definitively but I do know that the French calculation of horse power was different to ours. The capacity of the engine is about 1.68L so would be anything up to 14HP in the UK. According to "The Renault File" the 6 wheel 10CV Sahara car of 1923 everything is similar except for the fact that it is 5027cc capacity (100 bore x 160 stroke). Interestingly it had rack and pinion steering, which must be an early example of that form. The designation MH is not mentioned but a 20CV version of 1927 was designated the Type OX.
  18. A little more progress in the last two days. As previously mentioned, I had to remove the remains of the central stud that had held the cold water inlet elbow on the side of the block. This had evidently rusted right through (as have a series of studs that hold the top water jacket in place) but to complicate matters, someone had tried to drill it out free hand and placed a pilot hole off centre. Given that drills are pretty flexible and pointy, it would be inevitable that the enlarged hole would also be off centre if a drill were used. The saving grace, to my mind, was that the or
  19. The Father of a good friend of mine is a keen model engineer. He says that it is not possible to make a single traction engine model. You always make two but one of them is in the scrap bin. Well making the blanking plug for the timing case of the Renault engine was a bit like that. I miss-counted the teeth on one of the change wheels and, consequently, cut the wrong thread. However, it all, turned out all right. As I said above, the shape is entirely of my own invention as nothing important is going on inside the plug i.e. it is not providing a support bearing. Having said that I de
  20. In the 1960s Marconi installed a 1.5 Meggawatt transmitter somewhere in the Indian Ocean. The prime mover for electrical generation was a Deltic Diesel. A problem arose with the governor system designed to control the power output to match the electrical demand. If someone came to the microphone and puffed into it (as we all do) the result could be a broken crankshaft because the demand on the electrical supply doubled in a millisecond. The rapid opening of the throttle was too much for the engine. Other than that, my Father, who was associated with the project, spoke highly of the engine
  21. I got a little ahead of myself when I started this thread. I had already had the bearings done by Fields Engineering Services in London. Before I did anything else I had to drill out four of the nine studs in the front flanges of the crank case and sump, where the timing case fits. Strangely, they had all broken so as to leave half their threaded portion in the holes. This turned out to be a blessing. I drilled three 8mm bolts down their centres to act as drilling guides and was able to use the remaining thread to hold them in position. When the pilot holes had been drilled, I ha
  22. So I have had an adventurous time with the Renault engine over the last two days. I have no information on the engine and have never worked on one with a separate crank case but how difficult can it be!! The main bearing locating pegs are in the sump half so the crank shaft must be assembled with its con rods first then, with its bearings, dropped into the sump. The crank case is surprisingly heavy for cast aluminium so has a tendency to drop suddenly when the two long centre main bearing studs are located in the holes in the sump. I did all this after I had used instant gasket on
  23. A little progress over the week end. There was a hole in the cast aluminium sump where the engine had obviously been stored against something metallic that had reacted with the aluminium. I had been pondering on how to fix this and was coming to the conclusion that patching it would be safest. However, I had some Lumiweld sticks around so decided to give it a try. I used a propane blow lamp and played it on the sump for a very long time before it was up to temperature for the repair. It is quite difficult to get the Lumiweld to wet the surface of the aluminium but persistence and
  24. Thanks for the link. I already have the handbook for the Renault carb.
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