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  1. For a running engine that rocker shaft looks very dry. Might just be the video but is it getting an oil feed OK?
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  2. I like the work round the windscreen recess. Looks very neat.
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  3. Absolutely superb. Just goes to show what can be achieved with some thought, planning and teamwork.
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  4. Great teamwork, an excellent job!
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  5. Hi, decided to fix the old fork with corrosion. Steps to repair: 1. cut in the place of the old repair 2. design and drawing of "prostheses" is a workshop 3. design of wheel axle holders 4. assembly of "prostheses" with handles - welding 5. assembly of new elements with the original fork. It is still necessary to set the parallelism and axiality after welding, grind and it will be ready for initial assembly and fitting. Best regards Paul
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  6. Hello, my Name is David and i live in Austria. I am 26 years old, and i love old/rusty vehicles...:) A few weeks ago i bought an old Dennis Tipper. It's a very cool Truck, and it fits perfectly to my 1943 Triumph 3hw. Are there other Dennis owners on this Page? Sorry for my bad English, normaly i speak German😂
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  7. Does anyone recognise this rather nice Jeep? I am trying to find out who supplied the colour as its a rather nice rendition of RAF Blue. If anyone can help me find out i would be very grateful thank Andrew
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  8. After the usual Equinox rain and gales down here yesterday was a bit calmer so I could get the workshop doors open and move stuff around ready for phase two of the cab repair Completed front scuttle parked out of the way on the back of the Retriever And so it starts all over again on the rear floor and back panel, first job was to crane it off the tank at the back of the workshop and get it on a pallet where it can be worked on Quick look round and asses what needs doing Out with the chalk to mark up what needs replacing. The whole top section o
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  9. Great news on the diff. Hope a gearbox comes to light soon. Ian
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  10. The Latil just sold at auction for 62,000 Euros. Quite a respectable price.
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  11. Having never seen ECL self generating lamps before I purchased the pair at the end of last month, I found another one this week. It also needs some weld repairs to the generator and some parts making. My good friend Mick has found me a lovely Zenith carb to replace the unsightly aluminium downdraft version fitted to the Austin generator. The Zenith does not appear to be missing any parts, unlike most autojumble finds. Mick has been a huge support (enthusiasm and parts) for my projects over the years for which I am deeply grateful.
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  12. Thank you both for your input. I was pretty sure the lower flash was REME and it was mostly the top patch I was interested in. I am wondering if the upper patch is perhaps "tactical" colouring and whilst green black here on a flag it would be other colours. Perhaps red over black for "The Rifles". Ths blade appears to me to be a bit long for a dagger compared to the length of the grip and the "T" shapes on the end of the crossguard (is that called the quoin by the way?) are not dagger like. So maybe it is a sword rather than a dagger. I don't know if this helps any. The jacket came directly fr
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  13. Now they are in nice condition, well done.
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  14. When the chassis was blasted, I was alerted to the presense of small cracks in the diff housing. There were also signs of previous repair. As a result, I put the rear axle on hold, hoping that something would turn up. Well something did ! Thanks to the generosity of team Gosling (and Blaster Mike,) I am now the custodian of a spare diff/ axle casing and an expedition was recently mounted to recover it from deepest Somerset. This is an early cast iron casing in excellent condition with a bonus of two replacement axles with near zero wear. The clean up continu
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  15. The fabricating continues, Instalment number 2 of the engine cover. I thought the passenger side would be easier with no handbrake to work around......I was wrong 😩 This was the only other original panel from the engine cover Unfortunately it just wasn’t going to work with this engine so has been set aside. The problem with the passenger side is that the 4D engine manifold is wider that the original opening for the engine cover, I have purposely not modified any of the original panels just in case it ever get converted back to a V8. New panel star
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  16. Another little step forward. The charging board frame that came with the truck would have needed a lot of work to make it something like the original so it was easier to start from scratch. It wasn’t easy to bring all the parts together for welding as the frame had to fit within a newly made cover attached to the top of the body and also line up with the existing metalwork and use existing fixings. Also now fitting the (one original and three reproduction) battery box frames that go either side of the radio table. These will be screwed to the floor on wooden battens. I was lucky to f
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  17. I have no idea. The are no other numbers on this vehicle......
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  18. I found these images of two buses used as generators at what is now Army HQ, Lisburn. I know nothing of the vehicle's identity. The photographs were taken on 15th September 1942. The vehicles are parked back to back - one has a roof rack and one doesn't.
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  19. You would need a category C licence (or a CE to include a trailer over 750kg). HGV 1,2 and 3 are long gone. Registered as private and not used for business , not even your own or any kind of reward (not even a bag of chips) you do not need an operators licence or a CPC (operators or drivers). https://www.gov.uk/driving-licence-categories
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  20. Just looking at bits at the moment before we return to the Transmission Brake Bands and linings to finish them.There are Stuffing Boxes on the ends of the Jack Shafts and the cover on each is secured by 6 bolts. We have seven included with our bits which are reusable so five to make and this mainly done today - screw driver slots still to put in the heads. Steve already has a set up to do that so these bolts will go back with him to his place when he next comes down west again.Interestingly, the Parts Book shows studs on this set up with separate nuts but we had the bolts with cross holes dril
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  21. Went to collect the cooker today and as agreed some pictures of it, I think it was left outside since the catalogue was published, given help to get it to the car and not yet had a good look at it. The carrying handles need to be freed obviously the rust cleaned up, the pump handle seems slightly out of line with the pump. Looking for my copy of the manual to see how far to strip it down to get sand blasted. I note the HYDRA label doesn't look as though it was ever fitted. I think the original colour was deep bronze green but stand to be corrected. Want to get my other
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  22. Saw this and thought of you. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WW2-WOT-6-Truck-Dashboard/114418143997?hash=item1aa3da52fd:g:SD8AAOSwwolehJeB
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  23. There was one at Tanks, Trucks & Firepower last month.
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  24. I have looked into some production numbers listed here: https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/production_rootes read my comments here: http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?p=262185#post262185
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  25. It’s all coming along nicely, it will be ready for paint in no time.
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  26. On this citroen they did the trick too but couldn't hide it and ended up with 8 wheel nuts. 😆
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  27. Here a Dewald army truck on gas.
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  28. Nothing has been done to the Dewald yet. It sits in our shed in a strategically positioned way as it is in my view during breakfast (when I'm home). There is a tag on the engine that says it has been modified for the use with a wood gasser by Michel Coasnès. I found an old note of this company that says 'spare parts of my own fabrication adaptable to Dewald and all types of Laffly trucks' I am guessing that this company also did the modification of the rear wheels (and probably the fronts). The truck will be restored mechanically only, and for now we will leave the tyres. Regards, M
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  29. At last work on the scuttle is finished, it's been a bit of a long haul and at times a bit like completing a jigsaw using a grinder and a welder but it's done now and ready for media blasting when the rear cab section and roof have been seen to but all that's for another day so a few photos to close this chapter. This bit was a bit tricky due to the tight curves and internal lip But with a bit of bish and bosh it came good Here the same area had to be repaired on the other side as well a result of being hidden under the inner wing And the repa
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  30. Work - life balance is still all out of kilter but I'm managing to get a few odd jobs done once again. I ordered some mild steel blanks to make new exhaust flanges. When these arrived Jon volunteered to do the machining. Well, what could I say, other than "thanks". The thin flanges bolt onto the silencer end plates (with the bolt heads on the inside). The shouldered flanges are brazed onto the exhaust pipe. The flange pairs are retained with nuts and spring washers. Somewhere down the line a communication mix-up resulted in the shouldered flanges getting 3/8"bsf threaded holes and
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  31. Interesting what you learn - somebody on the Q4 owners page on Facebook has just replied and suggested that just like the smaller bore but similarly designed engines that were in the Humber Super Snipes, they were "notorious for blowing between the cylinders". As he says, even though my Q4 only has 1,700 miles on the clock, you can see on the photo below that it clearly hasn't been sealing around the whole cylinder and that it potentially has been blowing into the water galleries too! I wonder whether the cylinder heads were ever retorqued after manufacture given they were hardly used and mine
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  32. So having scoured the darkest depths of Speedy Spares for gaskets, the head was removed and cleaned up - very neat it looks too! As expected, the head and valves were coked up - many, many years of being run for short periods, very little mileage and lots of running cold on the choke. The valves and seats have been cleaned and lapped again so they seal properly and the head looks much neater and cleaner now! It's getting closer to the road all the time....
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  33. I think that I would seriously consider epoxy. In fact the ring is so good that I am going to suggest a way to show off 🙂 Get them to make a bigger complete ring. Cut it in half horizontally, then press divots in the bottom half with a specially-made press-tool. Cut slots for the spokes and then cast bakelite round the wheel. I don't think an authentic reproduction is out-of-reach. But I also don't think it is worth the effort.
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  34. The steering wheel has come on leaps and bounds today. The arrival of the rolled tube coincided with Stan being rained off and I prepped all the parts and made two spiggots from a short boiler tube off cut. Mike milled the necessary slots in the tube and I fitted the the ensemble together.....Which took longer than expected! It was now time for Stan to work his brazing magic on my wobbly collection of parts and suddenly we had a good solid steering wheel. After some further file and sanding work the job is now ready for the grips to be applied (with sold
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  35. I would have liked to give an impression of my museum here, Lokers war museum. Unfortunately, due to the well-known pandemic it was closed in February, until who knows when? the museum is located in lokeren, which is for those who would not know in belgium between ghent and antwerp the museum currently has 85 dolls, all of them, or almost with the necessary material. Most, 80 of them from the period of ww2, 5 dolls are dedicated to ww1 this in honor of my grandfather who fought in the trenches for 4 years; I will post some photos, enjoy viewing, all reactions are welcome
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  36. Let bubba loose on that one to save ours (although it looks like he’s made a start with the winch and those wheels.
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  37. That is what Steviem said as well right? Prefer our ww2 stuff. for me no tupperware car either
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  38. sorry you cannot get better than a ww2 jeep to much plastic on that one
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  39. there was not a lot of the body left you might of been able to save the bulk head so the owner asked for a new body it would of been over £5000 to rebuild it not worth it and a gallon of body filler also the body was a ford scripted and the jeep a willys script so the new body is the correct one happy days
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  40. Got a nice mail from Tom Wolboldt! From Ford Dallas plant records. GPW 268872 was prepped on May 16, '45 by being crated for shipping. The assigned registration number was USA 20734628.
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  41. Absolutely agree. Especially Militants, they were known for blowing head gaskets after getting too hot. Timber tractor was done a couple of years ago, and it was on the list of Tanker jobs to be done at some point, the leak just moved it up the list a bit
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  42. Hello everyone! I'm Zeke Hocking. I am a twenty-something recent university graduate, in anthropology, that spends far too much time reading, researching, and learning about military history, particularly that of the UK in the time since, well, the USA declared its independence. I find the immediate post-Second World War period and the Cold War to be interesting from a collector and historical perspective due to all the twists and turns (large and small) that occurred as the British Empire was dismantled (?, I don't have a good single word to describe the process, hence my interest hah!)
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  43. Only got a couple of bits done this weekend, spent far too much time mucking about with the dynamo control box, still cannot get any life out of it. If I fit the one out of the timber tractor she charges nicely, put it's own one back in and no charge, so it's definitely that's where the issue is. Did get the coolant leak cured. Washed out the block first, to clear all the sludge, there was quite a bit of it too so good job done Refit plate with new gasket. Run up for to temperature, while messing about with the charging lark, and no leaks found. Finished paint
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  44. I have just had a nice weekend in Devon where we did a little more. The 1 3/16" x 12 tpi tap and die had turned up so I set to on tidying up the track rod. The die is a metric diameter for an imperial thread and we don't have a die stock that size. Fortunately, the thread wasn't too garbled and I managed to pull it around by hand and strap wrench to clean it up. The die isn't of the split pattern so it took that treatment. A good greasing this time with the thickest grease I could find (Rated ' Consistency 2' on the tin). I screwed it into roughly the right positi
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  45. So........time to start fabricating the engine cover, drivers side first and this is all I had to go on.... made by a previous owner, it didn’t really fit and the square edge pressed against the back of your leg. Time to start fabricating 😬 I’ve gone with 1mm sheet steel as it’s easier to work with, not sure if it was the right choice but time will tell, I am still in two minds to have gone with a slightly thicker gauge. first offering not looking to bad. finished panel, it still amazes me just how long it takes to make.
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  46. Here are a series of close up/ detail pictures
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  47. I had a bad feeling yesterday. BBC local news the night before said covid rates in our neighbouring towns of Gateshead and Sunderland, are two and three times the national average now. Both towns border Washington. The councils were asking government for restrictions. While I don't think Washington rates are that high yet, having seen what's been happening around other high rate towns in the country, it feels like it's only a matter of time before there's a local lockdown here ( it looks like an announcement will be made tonight ). Since the Ford hasn't moved since the end of May, I deci
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  48. Whilst on lockdown like many others I have taken to doing some sorting and tidying. Over the years I have been a keen collector of Commer, Hillman and Ford literature and I am trying to catalogue it all now we can't go out too much. I found these Commer Superpoise Handbooks, what I would give to have the real thing to go with them!! I will keep looking and see what other handbooks of interest come up, I do know I have WD Minx and Tilly literature.
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