Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/17/2021 in Posts

  1. @steviem Silicone to put the glass in. Cliff at Universal Jeep Supplies said that the proper rubber seals just trap water in the frame, speeding up the rust. Silicone keeps the water out all together, but you'd need to do the same for the rubber seal on the bottom and outside edge of the frame, or water will just get in there too.
    1 point
  2. For the screen repair/reinforcement, I used epoxy, thinned ever so slightly with methylated spirits and mixed with milled fibreglass fibres to help bind the epoxy together and give it more strength. If you have any fibreglass mat, you could pull some strands out and chop them into small pieces to mix in. The bottom rubber seal was put in with mastic so the bottom of the screen frame was watertight, which meant the epoxy couldn't run straight out of the bottom of the frame. On my Jeep a few years ago, I filled some rot holes with epoxy and iron filings. I did repairs by brazing on my GPW frame, but I had another frame as a donor for metal of the right shape and section. The Dodge screen wasn't far enough gone to need big chunks cutting out, but needed some reinforcement.
    0 points
  3. Thanks, it seems SCC 2 which was apparently re-named BS381 colour 499 Service Brown after WW2 is in the right direction. I know there are many variants but I would like to avoid using the standard US OD ('Mat 1') even though I really like this shade. I'm restoring a Mk.V now and I will probably use a 2K spray can.
    0 points
  4. It's all about colours today it seems! (on FB) but I think, the bicycles, followed along the lines of the motorcycles, that followed the vehicles.... British Vehicle Camouflage, 1939-45 (mafva.org) Cheers, Lex PS, or buy all the literature available.....
    0 points
  5. Time to blow the dust off this interesting topic! Probably opening a can of worms here, but..... what color should an Mk.V be?
    0 points
  6. Sometimes, I get totally immersed in a task and these little fuel cocks are a 'prime' example. They have been beautifully made by Rosso in Australia and sent over to help with the restoration, which is greatly appreciated and a terrific boost to the project. They are now fitted and looking very smart. Another trinket from the jewelry box, the No.4 greaser, was tried for a fitting at the airfield. I had some concerns about the length of the supporting post, but all was well and it looked superb in its new home. The only problem is, I need another one ! Thanks Dave.
    0 points
  7. Twenty small coach bolts were fitted into the rear panels to fill the aerial mount holes and other holes of unknown origin. A little mastic was added around the base of each head to give a better waterproof seal. The white on the 'D' of speed was touched in with a brush afterwards. After that, I removed the rear right locker lid. This was a roll up lid that I made when I had the meteorological instrument panel fitted over the locker and the normal lid wouldn't open. I no longer needed the roll up lid, so refitted the original lid that I kept after removing it eleven years ago. There's still a few little jobs to do, but the Dodge is very close to being finished now.
    0 points
  8. Hello It’s been a while since I last posted so thought I’d do an update on my frame no. 1170 welbike! After a few months of finding original parts, it came to a halt and I ended up making a couple bits and buying reproduction front forks and front wheel all I could afford) so at least the bike was a roller. My dad and I ended up making the exhaust box (did not finish), brake rod and engine steady. In September (2020), I found an engine, and wheels which I sold on to help pay for some parts. The following month, a project welbike, frame no. 1199, came up for sale which I was luckily enough to get. The bike is only 29 frame numbers out from my first welbike which is a funny coincidence! It had horrible old black paint all over it which was coming of, so it needs a complete restoration (will talk about later). Since the bike will be repainted, I decided to switch the forks and front wheel (as these had next to no black paint on) and put them on the first welbike, frame no 1170. I also switched the exhaust box, engine steady, throttle and brake rod so 1170 is all original parts and paint so far. Since the bike was nearly complete, I ended up getting a reproduction pair of fuel tanks, and silencer (thanks to Geoff at WUK). With an induction heater and hammer, I gave them a few dents and scrapes. Someone we knows work works on old vehicles, hot rods etc so we gave them the fuel tanks to paint and weather, though they sadly never did. I didn’t really do much to either of the welbikes as I was hoping for original parts to turn up. In January (2021), I was fed up of waiting so I thought I’d try and get it started. I took the head and barrel off and and cleaned the piston, bore and faces up as I didn’t want to open the crank cases as it all looked nice. Made some new top end gaskets and put it all back together. Drained all the old oil out and put new in. We tried to get it going with a drill and it puffed out smoke twice, and started up for about 2 or 3 seconds which was a big achievement! Decided it needed a new coil and condenser. After this, It started up for the first time since the 40/50s and ran beautifully! Since the original throttle mount is not on the bars, I’ve had to use a lawnmower thumb throttle, which works nicely, though I will switch to the correct throttle at some point. I didn’t want to weld a new mount on due to the original paint. Fast forward to April. After waiting for the tanks to be painted, I ended up asking for them back as they kept saying they’ll do them next week but never did. In June, I decided to age them myself and think they came out well. The bike is now pretty much complete! It bump started first time and rode very well. The bike starts very easily, especially by spinning the rear wheel instead of running and bumping. Since then, I’ve been to a couple shows and it’s great to ride. It sounds very good too. It keeps having different issues with wanting to run, or the clutch needing to be adjusted every time it gets hot. But I keep finding and fixing these little issues (apart from the clutch but I think I know why). Normally, it’s just learning how this bike wants to run, such as having to turn the fuel off when you stop, and once you have it running again then turn the fuel on otherwise it floods it! Also, I think I’ve finally decided to weld on the handlebars instead of a making a clamp for the throttle but I need to buy the mount. The last couple months, I’ve been working on the other welbike, frame no.1199. Ive completely stripped the bike and engine. And have bead blasted the frame parts. I’m about to start on the engine. Then it’ll be onto painting and rebuilding with new parts. I still need original parts but since it’s being repainted, reproduction parts will be fine for now. But I need to buy more parts but have not got the money currently. I’ll probably do some posts on that one also. Might as well ask, if anyone has any parts, please message me! Regarding paint from my last post, I’ve realised that the bike first came out the factory green (like a normal mk1), then went back and painted brown. It is exactly the same on no. 1199, green and then brown. They both also have a mk2 style steering column so a certain amount on the late Mk1’s must’ve went back, or never left and updated. I’ve also realised that a lot of the Welbikes in the Polish training photos (I’ll attach one) are late MK1’s with the filler cap on the left side. They have the excelsior logo on the steering stem which is a mk2 trait. So there’s a chance these have been repainted brown like mine. I started looking at the census numbers but the picture below is the most clear pic I can find. The closest welbike, I think the number is ‘C4659654’ but can’t tell exactly. But if this is the correct number, it means it is roughly 9 out from my frame 1170, and 18 out from frame 1199! So mine could be there, but who knows. Nothing is for ceetain I’ll attach some pictures below of frame no. 1170… also, the Polish pic and an Arnhem bridge stand I made for it! I know is a long post, but its more of a log for myself to read in the future! cheers Alfie
    0 points
  9. First thing on the 16th, I fitted the pioneer tool rack to the back of the Dodge. The back no longer looks overwhelmed by stencilling. I'll leave it a few more days to harden before I fasten the tools back on. We then needed to call in on the old house ( which is still waiting for the sale to complete ) so I didn't get back to the Dodge until after lunch. Once back, I bolted the fenders back onto the truck and then turned my attention to the lights. The mounting bolts are also the earth connection, but both parts were rusted. They were wire brushed clean and then tinned with solder for a more corrosion resistant contact surface. The headlights were then reassembled and after refitting the rear indicator, the truck was run and the lights checked. The indicators only work when the engine is running.
    0 points
  10. New data plate arrived, I want to keep the original safe
    0 points
  11. we drove our bedford 3ton up a track in pinders tits c bty rha think it was 1967 old 3t pulling 25pounder.nearly ended a cropper on pindars tit.
    0 points
  12. I can't know the number 100%, but as you'll see in the next few posts, the vehicle itself guided me to the final number chosen for the hood. October 9th/10th - Stencils and Markings More painting of smaller green bits on the 9th; the screen frames, mirrors and arms, some bolts and the inner screen stays for when it is open. I also started trimming un-needed pieces of wood from the framework attached to roof bow number one. There was some slight delamination of the ply which also needed gluing. While the paint was drying on everything, I then started on the graphics for the stencilling. A few test prints were made to check the sizes against the space on the Dodge and all seemed good. The paper prints were tack glued to some thin card and out came the scalpel for a few hours cutting. Not all the stencils are made yet, there's still the Left Hand Drive and No Signals for the back.
    0 points
×
×
  • Create New...