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Having taken delivery of Steviem jeep to work on it for him the photos are over the first 2 days first day was body off engine and gear boxes out of the frame axles and springs off then its start to cheque the frame and what a mess lots of bits welded on so cut them off and the back end fell off its only the angle iron holding it together, day 2 cut the old bits off with the back cross member and extra scrap then jigged up the frame and welded up one side fit new cross member then cut off the scrap off the other side need to find 2 spring hangers as the threads have been worn away will ke

spent today removing all the rusty panels and patches have ground up all the spot welds there is a lot of steel to put back just need to do a bit of panel beating to dress all the edge angles then strip down the only two combat wheels and axles then off to taffy the best blaster in the north west

have done the lights indicators for the grill and head / side lights fitted just need to do the indicators in the back lights will draw out the wire diagram for you when i cut out all the rust will post the damage for you there is a large number of drilled holes i need to weld up for you there is going to be a lot of body filling and sanding for you the body filling is better going over the red primer. Have put all the bolts from the parts i take off with them so it will be easer for you to rebuild your jeep

today job was to strip down the jeep body and cut all the rust out tomorrow then its of to the scrap yard 😏 sorry the sand blasters all ways get the two mixed up with old jeeps all the best jerry

spent today finishing off the willys mb frame for steviem looking all good now so next its cut all the rust off the body then its off to t he shot blasters along with a box of bits

A question for the London Transport Museum. https://www.ltmuseum.co.uk/

Mt210 - Yes please 😉

Here is the full story on the knock engine although it does not look quite like the object in the photo: https://www.asme.org/wwwasmeorg/media/resourcefiles/aboutasme/who we are/engineering history/landmarks/50-cooperative-fuel-research-engine-1928.pdf

Evening All, At last I have finished the gearbox, almost. It turned out to be quite complex but that was entirely due to me being too fussy. I think the turret gearbox had three settings, fine, course and hand, by which I mean that you can rotate it by pulling it around, all three would be too complex for my little brain, so I decided just to incorporate two, hand and fine. when the lever is in the vertical position the gearbox is in hand and when the lever is push forward or backwards the gearbox is in fine. While I was in the process of deciding how to manufac

All the Triumph's used the double plunger type tap 1/4 x 1/4 BSP threads. https://www.tricor-andy.com/product/petrol-tap-double-plunger-type/ Ron

working on the front of steviem jeep got it all sorted and welded up i have made some strengthening plates for under the cross tube i have done this on a number of jeep over the years and they don't look out of place and the chassis did need them did all the grinding then it rained on it and i went inside to work on the grill combat lights

Here are some photographs of the exterior and r of the Garrison Church, Tobruk in the mid 50s

I don’t have a clue Ron 😂

This is all sooooo beautiful! When will you start selling tickets for a ride on this bus? 😊

Scimitar has two hull isolators one in drivers left side and the other in turret due to two battery banks however if not radio sets are present I’ll not presume the drivers masters witch is the important hull set. Hand brakes a ratchet type left side along side the tillers and a black knobe on the hull sponson this is your forward reverse blipping the throttle and pushing it back or forward can assist in smooother directional change, point to note forcing it in will work but not recommended as internal wear can occur in gear box tillers are pull type neutral turn is by one or other tiller pull

That won't work helas for this type of engravings it's too shallow. This was done by copper wheel engraving.

Just to clarify a living van is different to a motor caravan. A living van carries goods.

I am afraid that John Wardle is wrong about living vans and the new regulations. An answer to a recent parliamentary question on this point, amongst others said: "The vehicles operated by the Ministry of Defence are within the scope of the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) (Amendment) Regulations 2020. Vehicles that were originally built as heavy goods vehicles but have been converted to be a living van (under the C&U regulations definition) are within the scope of the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) (Amendment) Regulations 2020. Vehicles of historical interest, as

Search for 1200r 20 tyres gives a number of companies selling them. Add off road and you get more options. Big tyres, se tyres, tyres guru and vrakking tires all come up with options. It must be easier to get the right size tyres which will solve the problem for 10 years. Ensure you are specific about the date - I could only get Aug 18 tyres for my EKA.

Seeing as your current tyres are over 20 years old it would make sense to change them regardless of the regulations. Vraking in the Netherlands have new 12R20 Michelin XDY3 available but no price on the site. https://vrakking-tires.com/20-inch/680-1200r20-michelin-xdy3.html

I think that there could be a loophole in the 10 year steer tyre regulations, they clearly state that it applies to GOODS vehicles, so as long as the vehicle is not being used commercially it should not be classed as a goods vehicle. When I had my Leyland Daf MoTed in December I asked the tester about the upcoming tyre regulations and I was told that as mine is registered as a Motor Caravan since first registration it is exempt from the tyre rules as it is not a goods

I would imagine that it would be much easier to get some on/off road 1200 R 20s. They would normally be used overseas rather than in UK but the big tyre dealers would stock them for export. An example is Barum NB27 if they are still available. John

spent today finishing off the last of the grinding around the front end and bolted it to the jig ready for welding up will have to make some extra reinforcement plates need to get 4 bolt spring hangers as the last owner has welded tubes on the oval holes what a mess

work to day. spent all day cutting and grinding all the scrap from the front of the jeep and yes its not good the steel plate was 1/4" thick and ark welded on will need to get the chassis jig out tomorrow to set it up when i first striped the jeep it has had a very hard life this truck

Good luck with your move!

so anther day in paradise working on the jeep sorted out the back end and finished it off found two spring hangers in my stock of parts just need to weld on the hangers when i turn it over finished making the bit of the frame that was missing tomorrow weather permitting will start to cut all the extra scrap off the front end to fit the new bumper plates

If you do Facebook, take yourself over the British Army Jeep Research group. Best resource for British jeeps, marking guides, hundreds of pictures etc etc

Hi Steve, there’s a current thread running “ A guide to British vehicle markings “ definitely worth a look.

Anther cold day at work shop but got on with rebuilding the steering box striped off the springs cleaned all the axle U bolts and recut the threads sorted the spring base plates and got all the bits in primer tomorrow will paint them in colour ready for fitting Steviem give me a ring later

Mine is a proper WW2 steel headlamp 😜 Ron

hang on till its all striped and clean then will sort out a list going to order the wheels and see if i can get 2 spring hangers no one seems to have any

A very wet day at the workshop so no out side work today so i have made some new late war time pedal pads and a new radio junction box and started to strip down the steering box needs new cross shaft and bearings

A view on the river Blyth looking up towards the old grain plant and ash dock past the tidal dock, where as the hull was lightened it was moved up.

might be able to make one for you

Quiet please, Teacher in class 👨‍🎓 Sit up at the back there, and I'll try to explain. This is one of the harder welds to do successfully. Might look simple, just fill the corner, but even experienced professional welders have to give it some thought to get a good finish. It's all to do with the magnetic field created by the welding arc. This is what draws the filler material (MIG wire or stick) into the joint as you weld. If you are doing a straight butt weld the magnetic effect is equal on both sides of the joint, and you can get a straight weld with nice coins that not only look

As a footnote to replacing the core plugs and flushing out the the block the cylinder head gets over looked the attachment shows what was removed after steam cleaning the head it was left for a week and this was removed using a small round magnet attached to a small plumbers pipe spring the rust weights 2 ozs which if not removed would / could block small water ways

I have just discovered this thread. My grandfather George Thorpe was chief steward on the HMS Vandyck.I have his account of the bombing and his subsequent internment written in pencil at the time in a very small leather journal.As well as his account it also contains addresses of several men onboard and their wives.It is very interesting as to his take on what happened in the original bombing,and includes dramatic scenes of the struggle at sea to Bleik.If it is of interest to anyone I would be happy to write most of it out verbatim.

Here is Lex's living room. Ron

The metal repair filler has the advantage of not soaking up moisture and bonds better to the metal than normal body filler, but it is more expensive indeed. As for the metal spraying, I don't think that is something you can do yourself as it seems to require quite special tools... But there are a few vids on youtube about the process.

Thanks for the suggestions, I think the face is celluloid. I am much more at ease with metals and not sure if pigments in wax might transfer into the face Some time ago I cheaply purchased a pocket watch holder, it was missing the majority of the insides but still had the velvet in the front section so I purchased some more to match. One turned up on eBay recently so I was able to see how the cushions should look. There is an outer ring of wood that is fastened in place with two wood screws; covered this with wadding before fitting the felt and then stitched a small circular cushion

Original invasion star on the bonnet!!! Will replace that when finished. Alex

I was told this is a Sheller wheel, it had grooves!

Starting the long process of stripping things down and removing old paint etc. Upon rubbing down the rear wings we found its various layers of paint from over the years. But interestingly, look a the very pale green / beige that's the original paint layer. Its hard but not impossible to make out in the photo. 1942 I would have expected SCC2 Brown or similar, not a light colour. Would it maybe imply first use was overseas?

Then most was steamcleaned, a lot of dirt had accumulated everywhere, as the oilseals were not that good anymore, and then carefully sandblasted: Primered: And painted o.d.: Frame rails added: Then all oilseals replaced, with modern ones, with double lips, no pictures of that, and not very exiting, but very necceserry! Lockwire on the bolts! More to follow, Lex

Some photos of 'For BFs' a pocket sized booklet published in 1942 by Vauxhall motors aimed at Bedford drivers. Explaining why the outer wheel nuts are painted red.

Any one know when the 1944 Morris C8 GS was made, Oct/Nov 1944 i have heard but seen no paper work to tie the date down. Photo of my old Morris that i sold a few years back. Keith

Rear springs fitted with new bushes and pins which were made oversized so we reamed the shackles and hangers to save making sleeves . Rear axle fitted and brake actuators which were stripped and cleaned earlier refitted.Started to set out staircase and will be a combination of templates from a restored B type and a London General Omnibus drawing we have which is so close to the Birch Brothers body we have . We were lucky in the fact all six of the original electric light fittings survived but unfortunately none of the glass lenses. A friend had some almost identical but the lenses are a fracti

The weather wasn't conducive to working through the letterbox to examine the diaphragm issue today so I set about some of the odd jobs. First was to refit the front panel stay so it can be opened and closed properly without the aid of a broom. And to get all the lights working. The head light switch was swapped for one from the donor cab, which I had already liberated, cleaned and tested. Just a matter of unscrewing the dash, hanging the old switch out the way, fitting the new switch and swapping the wires one by one. Then went through all the other switches with some contact cleane

Excellent work and congratulations. I have a vehicle that was a flatmate to yours. It's the one behind yours in the photo in Terry's facility. After two tours in Somalia and one in Rwanda it's seen some better days. In fact based on your pics yours was much cleaner and more intact! It's taken far too long but I've finally got it down to the bare hull and most of the welding done. Your success is an inspiration.

Yes, always something needs doing. gmc needs nothing doing to her, just fixed a oil leak from the transfer box on the jeep, cvrt needs a replacement voltage regulator, when its started from cold it over charges the batteries until I hit the regulator with a hammer then it's ok. Abbot has been restored over the last few months, pack was lifted, new fuel injector pipe fitted as one had necked off at the injector. bought a tidy 434 with 76 hours on the pack 2-3 weeks ago, was very please to find I could change the engine oil filters without pulling the pack out due to there been a