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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/11/2021 in all areas

  1. Have you a picture showing the channel from the end ? To see how it's been formed. If you have a local sheet metal shop they may be able to form it in a long length for you to cut to size. If you were a bit closer I would give it a go on the brake press assuming I had the tooling.
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  2. Hi, could you build up the section from channel and angle (folded from sheet metal). still a bit of a fiddle but easier than as a single strip folded back on itself… soldered rather than welded. Steel or brass. Happy hammering. Peter
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  3. I thought my phone was in the cab, but it had actually fallen out of my back pocket, screen down, onto the gravel drive under the Dodge. While crawling around trying to grease everything, I managed to force it into the gravel. When I found it, I thought I'd crushed the screen, but I was lucky that it was only the screen protector that I had well and truly destroyed. The phone will live to call another day! Not too long after I finished with the Dodge, the sky went dark and the rain came hammering down again. You can see splash/impacts on the roof of the Dodge like meteorites hitting the Moon!! Anyway, I think we're good to go and the weather looks to be sunny, so it will be a Flying Control pair on show. Faith the Dodge is also 77 years old today...
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  4. We need some for some door panels too, have bought things from Vintage Car Parts before but didn't think to try them. Thanks.
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  5. I got some Copper bifurcated rivets for another project from the chap at Vintage Car Parts, he is a good reliable source of all sorts of bits and pieces. Worth a look over his website. link here: https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/654-bifurcated-copper-split-rivet Dave
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  6. The clips are known as bifurcated or split rivets. Can't help with the channel as always difficult to match imperial sizes. Have you tried F.H. Brundle? They have a very good website or might be able to suggest a supplier.
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  7. Hi all, Thought some folk may be interested in various pics of equipment/vehicles I took during my time in a TA regiment from 2000-2004 which had a Royal Artillery troop, of which I was a member. Ill post the arty here and the vehicles in the appropriate sections. We were equipped with the L118, initially the original version with the dial sight and then converted to the LINAPS version in 2002, a massive leap forward! During that time I fired some 80 rds of live and marker as well as hundreds of blank (it was the TA after all!) in what was probably the best 4 years of my now 19 year military career. The pics variously show both versions as well as a few of some ceremonial 25pdrs we borrowed as gate guardians for an event. Also shown are some pics of the Pack Howitzer we had as the gate guardian at our RHQ. My understanding is that this and a number of others was captured during the Falklands (not by our unit) and then issued to RA training units in the UK. Our troop were tasked with repainting it in 2004. Please excuse the picture quality, these were all taken with disposable cameras, not wanting to risk taking nice ones into the field. LINAPS version of L118, Warcop ranges in 2004. Note LDU (Layer's Display Unit) on left of gun.
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  8. Lex. That doesn’t sound good. Nothings been easy with this build, a few more hurdles won’t hurt, I have it fitting in no time 😉
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  9. Gearbox saga continued..... So I decided that it should be possible to strip the epicyclic range change/overdrive unit in situ. So on Monday the front prop was dropped, the prop from the gearbox to transfer box removed, selector removed (again!) And the air valve above removed. Front prop Transfer box prop It's not essential to mark and refit props in the same place as all the components will be balanced separately, but it's good practice and there is less chance of things coming loose especially if there is any corrosion. Especially true with wheels. Dam that short prop is heavy. Air valve Selector The cross member was dropped as it has a mounting that stops the housing being removed. This was harder than anticipated as it's held with close fitting bolts. They look to be custom made and fitted to reamed holes. Took some serious penetrating oil, air gun and a lever to extract them. There was still quite a lot of moisture in the oil when drained even though it's already been changed. But this may be due to there being a step at the front of the casing that stops complete draining. So there is some surface rust on the inside. All the casing nuts were removed and the case was ready to simply be slid off the studs.....not. It was properly stuck and I had to employ the chain puller again, tension was applied and then the copper mallet strategically used and with a bang it came free. A couple of nuts were left on so it didn't drop on my head. And finally the insides were outside. Strap was just incase as I wasn't sure how much the rear gearbox mount was supporting, not a lot was the answer. The selector shaft is on the right, syncro hub in the middle and the epicyclic gears to the left. The synchro is the part I'm most interested in so that was stripped off with the selector shaft. The syncro ring either has a coating on or its collected metal from the syncro cone. If it's coated it's coming off. Anyone know if it's a coating or all needs cleaning off??? The syncro cone has been working hard and has a lot of surface cracking, which you may just about be able to see. Everything else seems to be in excellent condition apart from some light surface rust. All the important bits are clean and intact. So now I'm looking for syncro parts Baulk ring syncro cone Nato No. 2520-99-825-3460 part No. 050-471-03 Cone outer syncromesh Nato No. 2520-99-828-3814 part No. 050-778-00 If that fails I'll go get the local gearbox and hope the bits I need are in good condition.
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  10. any supply of 24v at 55 Amps is going to take some cooling, a fan and a half. Putting 240v through a transformer and rectifier will still produce some heat and fan. There are 3 elements inside the BV hence the current draw,
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  11. Hi Barry. Thanks for the steel guidance. It is what I had in mind. Now that you suggest it, we really should see if we can salvage the original tube plates. It will destroy some scrap and save a quite a few quid as well as using original parts. Will have a go the next time I go down. Steve 🙂
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  12. One possibility is to prevent cracking at the hub or spokes due to the outside getting very hot with the inside cold. (in that it is pre-cracked in a controlled way)
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  13. Ian, I see what you mean about the wheel diameter, but don't know why they are different. The dataplate on the bowser in Italy is this, and a front view: The photo beoow is a 180 gallon bowser at Deelen Museum in Netherlands, difficult to see clearly, but think it has smaller wheels and can just make out the "fluted" mudguard....and another shot of the pump: ... If your other bowser stil lhas both pumps, I know one is earmarked for Nige, but I'd be interested in the other. Thanks
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  14. And another Bowser has turned up in a farmers field not far from me, the chasis has been cut/modified but it has a lot more of the parts I would need to make up one complete unit. I will be asking a friend to make enquiries on my behalf
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