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Split rims


gazzaw

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Hi

 

Anyone got any good tips or methods for getting the two halves of my split rims (for 11x20.00 tyres) out of the tyre beads- I have tried force, big hammers and a 4 ton bedford over the walls - manage to get the smaller side out but the larger side of the rim is a real booger and I have 5 to do....help where is my REME when I need them?

 

Gary

Edited by gazzaw
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I'm assuming you've tried the usual bits of large section angle iron and wooden wedges in association with the application of force to help persuade the beads of the rim, but mention them only because you dont. If you can borrow one, or know of a tyre company which has one, of the (dont know the right name) 'hammer levers' they work well. (Assuming you are built like a powerlifter). I'm not, so I felt lucky that I found a tyre company that was willing to have a go. They did one but the guy knackered himself so deferred on the others. They did suggest the aforesaid wedges etc and plenty of lubricant on the beads overnight. This did work for me, doing it when I felt like it, i.e. when I'd got my breath back :). Goes without saying that once you've got them off to give the rims a bloody good clean up so that it is a lot easier next time. If one side is particularly stubborn then take the other off, give it a good clean so it will come off easily next time and then, sounds silly, but put it back on again. Turn it over and use the wedges etc on the stubborn side using the first rim to help support it. I've always found it is always easier to get one side off if the other is in due to cutting down the movement etc. Once you have a bit of movement on the bead it makes all the difference. I also made myself up some 4 foot long tyre levers from some suitable rectangle section bar, welded a stiffening piece in the middle away from the business end to cut down on flexing. These have proved very helpful too.

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Thanks for reply, We are about to jack down on it with a bottle jack between chassis and tyre- had a 4 tonne bedford on sidewall and sledgehammer and wedges wouldn't budge them - got new tyres to fit so might end up cutting them off with an angle grinder but will soak overnight first and try the wedges etc again.

 

Gary

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Re truck tyre dealer etc- our local one wants £200 just to remove them and we would have to do the rest and rebuild etc a bit steep on a limited budget

 

Gary

 

I know what a limited budget is like when it comes to restorations.........:-(

 

Do you know anyone with a JCB digger loader......... the stabiliser legs may just shift them. Just keep the heel of the leg close to the rim, When the leg pushes down on the tyre, spray some WD 40 in the gap. Keep turning the wheel and repeating the process. Maybe your local plant hire firm could be kind enough to allow a driver to do it as a "Saturday" job.

 

Well.... it must be worth a go. :)

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If they are as stuck as they appear to be you will need 2 JCB's, one at each side , otherwise the tyre and wheel will just 'stand up'.

Get one leg each side then use tyre soap, big bars and a sledge hammer, this is how we remove them when they are corroded on with years of cow sh.....manure.

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The tool No Signals refers to used to be known by the name Roadall - we have one in the yard which dates back to the days before the invention of the electric concrete breaker (Kango & similar) and is built rather like a very skinny version of a tubular post rammer , they have a selection of long (about 6') chisels which locate inside the centre tube between the handles . Two strong blokes (or one nutter) then raise & drop the handles vigorously until such time as a) the concrete cracks/breaks or - in this case - b) the tyre bead comes away . With the possible alternative of c) they loose interest . :sweat:

 

Having seen the truck tyre fitter we use produce one from the back of his van one day when fitting a new set of tractor tyres for me I thought I'd give it a go on the wheels of my showmans wagon at a later date . I resorted to option c) in the end , closely followed by option d) the angle grinder . :-D

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Hi Gary,

The way to do these is with the slide hammer type tool refered to above, normaly called a "bead breaker" but the trick is to use it with a wheel stand - a low three leged stool type thing that holds the wheel and tyre off the ground so that you are not just bouncing the tyre up and down, and no I don't have one, I have to borrow one when I need it.

cheers

John

Edited by Roof Over Britain
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Hi Garry,

The way to do these is with the slide hammer type tool refered to above, normaly called a "bead breaker" but the trick is to use it with a wheel stand - a low three leged stool type thing that holds the wheel and tyre off the ground so that you are not just bouncing the tyre up and down, and no I don't have one, I have to borrow one when I need it.

cheers

John

 

This method is fine with a wheel that is in good condition but is VERY dangerous with anything that is seriously stuck, I have seen some very nasty injuries caused by these 'stools'. Another thing to consider is tyre inflation, unless you have a cage to put the tyre in don't do it, people have been killed when they fly apart, what value do you put on your life?

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Thanks Guys, for all the input and advice

 

This morning we sprayed 1 wheel with WD40 and in the absence of a JCB (the guys weren't there this morning) I jacked up the Chevy wrecker placed the wheel under one of the adjustable drop down stabiliser legs. The wheel rim was supported on wooden blocks and a batten was between tyre and leg foot. Dropping the vehicle on the trolley jack brought the foot down onto the bead and with a few hits of a chisel edge around the bead it came free- so one down and 4 to go- the inner tube needs replaced as the bottom of the valve was corroded just as it goes into the tube.

 

Regards

 

Gary

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The tyres are scrap and we have a set of 5 new(er) ones that are all good and not perished(unlike the ones coming off)

 

Normally would have thought about cutting them off but need to do it properly as we will no doubt be replacing these a few times in the desert once we get there (expedition Saharan Saunter www.wdrg.org)

 

Gary

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I would still cut them off.....its not worth struggling....

Assuming they are crossply with fabric carcass, cut round the sidewalls with a chainsaw, so you can get inside the tyre. with the bead and part of the sidewall only on the rim, cut the steel wires in the bead with a 9" angle grinder to release the tension. (it is possible if you are careful to get fully through all the wires without even nicking the rims.)

 

cutting wires in one place should free the remaining part of the tyre, otherwise cut it twice, 180 degrees apart.

 

But be careful. This does not work with runflats since it is too much for the chainsaw, but I have taken aprt 30 or more stubborn 14.00 x 20's using this method. And wont work for Radials with steel wire in the sidewalls.

 

IT IS NOT THE VIEW OF THE FORUM THAT THIS IS NECESSARILLY A GOOD IDEA, IT IS JUST THE WAY I DO IT> USE MY IDEA AT YOUR OWN RISK.

 

If you have once got them off and properly sand blast or needle gun off the rust, replacement tyres will be much easier to service.

Edited by antarmike
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i have just done my two piece rims on my K6, find someone with a 3 ton HIAB and use the jack leg the foot on the bottom of the ram is ideal, just keep feeding it around, and lots of washing up liquid :-D

 

good luck

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:idea:Thanks guys you've just given me the idea how to get the tyres off my scammel... I've got two mobile cranes at work with hydraulic outriggers... a toatal of 47 tons of force to pop the tyres off the rims. Bingo:-D

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:idea:Thanks guys you've just given me the idea how to get the tyres off my scammel... I've got two mobile cranes at work with hydraulic outriggers... a toatal of 47 tons of force to pop the tyres off the rims. Bingo:-D

 

i think that should be enough force, even for a scammel :-D

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Too old for all this bashing and struggling, last puncture was a b**ger, as I've got a whole new set to put on I bought one of these NOS at Beltring, said to be the bogs dollocks by those who've used them on Explorer tyres. Works off your MV air tanks.

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Too old for all this bashing and struggling, last puncture was a b**ger, as I've got a whole new set to put on I bought one of these NOS at Beltring, said to be the bogs dollocks by those who've used them on Explorer tyres. Works off your MV air tanks.

 

I bought one of these about 5 years ago and it is very good, even a mobile tyre fitter was impressed when I removed an old 9.00-20 tyre that he had failed at removing.

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or perhaps you could blow it apart with Cordtex?

 

In case anyone thought I was being flippant, the Weapons Trials Unit of FVRDE conducted such experiments in August 1967.

 

The conclusion was that it was "a workable and worthwhile proposition."

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