Barney Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 (edited) theres a wikipedia on the subject...here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_saving_device That's an interesting article Flandersflyer. Wikipedia states that only 7 out of 140 devices tested under strict conditions improved the engines efficiency. Of course the designers and manufacturers knew this but their continuing sales relied on the fact that no man would admit that he had been duped by a fuel economy device. I the early days of motoring history carburettors were very basic and the old up-draught types did waste a lot of fuel due to the inefficiency of their design so Hulley’s device might well have made some slight improvement at that time. I remember that the Ford 100E of the late 1950’s had a Solex or Zenith carburettor and the Austin /Morris vehicles had the brilliant SU carburettor and the difference in the fuel consumption figures was surprising. The A35 and the Morris Minor could easily get 40mpg whilst Ford’s 100E could barely get 30mpg. I can remember Ford’s efforts in trying to keep pace with Austin/Morris. Ford’s 100E economy device was a button fitted in the floor right next to the throttle pedal. With the natural position of the foot pushing down on the pedal it would contact the button and stop the throttle being pushed more than half way down. To accelerate harder meant an awkward twisting the foot to one side to bypass the button. Later the 4 cylinder ‘V’ engined Ford Transit was also a thirsty beast, about 18mpg - less with a big load, and Ford attempted to overcome this by fitting an upright facing tee in the fuel line next to the carburettor and taking a pipe back to the petrol tank, the idea being to relive the pulsating pressure of the mechanical fuel pump on the float needle valve. I presume it must have worked to some extent as Ford fitted it to some of their other engines. Eventually Ford brought out their own carburettor roughly based on the SU but in order to get around the SU patents it turned out to be a right abomination and was eventually only fitted on the 2ltr Cortina Mk5 ----- I think. John Please note. As pointed out by Sean N below. The 100E had a 1172cc side valve engine which by its design would certainly had a high fuel consumption. I should have said 107E (Prefect) which had the body of a 100E but with the 997cc overhead valve engine that was later fitted to the slope back windowed 105E Anglia. Edited December 18, 2014 by Barney Correction to post; mentioned wrong vehicle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean N Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 I remember that the Ford 100E of the 1950’s had a Solex or Zenith carburettor and the Austin /Morris vehicles had the brilliant SU carburettor and the difference in the fuel consumption figures was surprising. The A35 and the Morris Minor could easily get 40mpg whilst Ford’s 100E could barely get 30mpg. John I've never been too impressed with the Solexes of the period but I'm not sure you can attribute the differences in fuel economy solely to the carburettor and ignore the differences in engine design! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Our target each Christmas is to reassemble something significant and this year is no exception. We want to get the engine sealed up and ready to go in and also fit the front axle and stub axles. To that end, Father has been pressing on with the stub axles and has turned up some new bushes to match the skimmed king-pins. The original top thrust bearings were part of these bushes but, unfortunately, are rather beyond salvage. Not surprisingly, they proved unobtainable to replace so Father has turned up plain bushes with a shoulder to suit a modern thrust race as well as the more conventional plain bushes for the bottom. Steve pressed these in using his 10T press in a remarkably small space on the garage floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 (edited) I've never been too impressed with the Solexes of the period but I'm not sure you can attribute the differences in fuel economy solely to the carburettor and ignore the differences in engine design! Sorry Sean I should have said 107E not 100E which had a side valve engine. The 107E had a 100E body and the new 997cc engine that was later to be fitted in the slope back widowed 105E Anglia. I have now added an addendum to my original post. John Edited December 18, 2014 by Barney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 The lower bush was pressed in using a steel bar and a bit of plate from above as, rather surprisingly, the bush is flanged on the upper surface. A little bit of hand scraping to ease them and the pin was fitted. As you can see, the ball joints are pretty bad so Steve cut them off with the angle grinder. He managed to loosen the nut but the ball still required drilling before it would move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 The second was treated in similar fashion and was eventually extracted A quick run through the hole with a reamer and two stub axles are ready to fit. The steel is currently on order to make up some new ball ends after which it will be time to start looking at the track rod and wheel bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 How are you going to turn the ball end? Do you have one of the many little 'gizmos' for such a task or are you going to put it out to a friend with a CNC lathe? Barry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 How are you going to turn the ball end? Do you have one of the many little 'gizmos' for such a task or are you going to put it out to a friend with a CNC lathe? Barry. Steve has a Ball-Turning attachment for his lathe and he will have a go at doing it with that! I don't think that he has attempted anything quite as big as this before - so we shall see how he gets on! Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Steve has a Ball-Turning attachment for his lathe and he will have a go at doing it with that! I don't think that he has attempted anything quite as big as this before - so we shall see how he gets on! If it doesn't work out, I have a CNC lathe. I am also willing to have a go at re-machining the thrust race/bush things if you want. I think that with CBN tooling and CNC it might be possible to re-cut the ball track. Whilst I am at it, we re-machined the transmission brake shoes for Jez (1916 Dennis) using my dad's horizontal borer. Though I imagine that it wouldn't be too hard with a lathe, face-plate and jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 That's an interesting article Flandersflyer. Wikipedia states that only 7 out of 140 devices tested under strict conditions improved the engines efficiency. Of course the designers and manufacturers knew this but their continuing sales relied on the fact that no man would admit that he had been duped by a fuel economy device. I the early days of motoring history carburettors were very basic and the old up-draught types did waste a lot of fuel due to the inefficiency of their design so Hulley’s device might well have made some slight improvement at that time. I remember that the Ford 100E of the late 1950’s had a Solex or Zenith carburettor and the Austin /Morris vehicles had the brilliant SU carburettor and the difference in the fuel consumption figures was surprising. The A35 and the Morris Minor could easily get 40mpg whilst Ford’s 100E could barely get 30mpg. I can remember Ford’s efforts in trying to keep pace with Austin/Morris. Ford’s 100E economy device was a button fitted in the floor right next to the throttle pedal. With the natural position of the foot pushing down on the pedal it would contact the button and stop the throttle being pushed more than half way down. To accelerate harder meant an awkward twisting the foot to one side to bypass the button. Later the 4 cylinder ‘V’ engined Ford Transit was also a thirsty beast, about 18mpg - less with a big load, and Ford attempted to overcome this by fitting an upright facing tee in the fuel line next to the carburettor and taking a pipe back to the petrol tank, the idea being to relive the pulsating pressure of the mechanical fuel pump on the float needle valve. I presume it must have worked to some extent as Ford fitted it to some of their other engines. Eventually Ford brought out their own carburettor roughly based on the SU but in order to get around the SU patents it turned out to be a right abomination and was eventually only fitted on the 2ltr Cortina Mk5 ----- I think. John Please note. As pointed out by Sean N below. The 100E had a 1172cc side valve engine which by its design would certainly had a high fuel consumption. I should have said 107E (Prefect) which had the body of a 100E but with the 997cc overhead valve engine that was later fitted to the slope back windowed 105E Anglia. side valves are sloggers though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Our target each Christmas is to reassemble something significant and this year is no exception. We want to get the engine sealed up and ready to go in and also fit the front axle and stub axles. To that end, Father has been pressing on with the stub axles and has turned up some new bushes to match the skimmed king-pins. The original top thrust bearings were part of these bushes but, unfortunately, are rather beyond salvage. Not surprisingly, they proved unobtainable to replace so Father has turned up plain bushes with a shoulder to suit a modern thrust race as well as the more conventional plain bushes for the bottom. Steve pressed these in using his 10T press in a remarkably small space on the garage floor. how much force was required here?...not too much i hope.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Not much although the plywood packer gave up and I had to find a piece of steel to finish it off. Thanks for the offer Andy. I have a ball turning attachment for the Myford which I bought to do the Dennis ball joints. In the end, we found enough good ones to do the job so it has never been used. I am looking forward to having a go when the steel turns up! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 As always, your skill and ingenuity never cease to amaze me. Great work. Always look forward to the updates. John G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Not much although the plywood packer gave up and I had to find a piece of steel to finish it off. Thanks for the offer Andy. I have a ball turning attachment for the Myford which I bought to do the Dennis ball joints. In the end, we found enough good ones to do the job so it has never been used. I am looking forward to having a go when the steel turns up! Steve i was thinking more along the lines of the open end of that forging being unbraced/unsupported....whilst applying pressure to sit that bushing in....:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Yes, I understand. It wasn't too tight so I kept going but I was prepared to brace it if did tighten up. The stub is a pretty hefty forging as I found when trying to remove the ball joints. I can only just lift the thing with one hand! We hope to have it fitted by this time next week. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 We are still doing something in spite of eating too much! The engine is mounted on two pieces of steel angle which Father has already made. Whilst the RH one is bolted to the inside face of the subframe, the LH one pivots on a spigot bolted to the subframe to prevent the crankcase from having torsional loads imposed on it. We were fortunate in that the spigot survived on the shepherd's hut chassis but unfortunate in that it was completely exposed to the weather for many years, leaving it in a pretty rough state. We felt that it could probably be salvaged by skimming the surface back and replacing the thread on the end so this we determined to do. The first step was to produce a datum so it was clamped down to the bed of the mill and the two spot-faces were cleaned up. Two spacing collars were then turned up with careful attention paid to their thickness to keep the spigot true. The whole forging was bolted to the faceplate and 'clocked' into position using the only bit of uncorroded surface left. After removing 3/16" from the diameter, the threaded portion was removed and a hole bored in the end to locate the replacement. A short length of thread was turned up and screw cut nearly to size. This is shown before the final clean up using a proper 1" BSW die to produce the thread form. After cleaning and facing, the stub of thread was silver soldered into the end of the spigot. The grease groove was then dressed in using the Dremel pencil grinder. Tomorrow, we will add the split pin hole and Father can paint it ready for fitting. Readers may be concerned about the strength of a silver soldered joint securing such a large nut. To be honest, we don't know why the nut is there because the two steel angles are between the subframe rails and bolted to the crank case. With no nut there at all, there is no way that the angle can move along the spigot. The nut only stops the angle from falling off whilst the engine is lowered in and is purely cosmetic in service. We think we will get away with it! Happy Christmas everybody! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Well fielded on that last point Steve, that's exactly what I was thinking ... Have a good New Year when it comes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 We have had a leisurely afternoon fitting the sump to the engine. First job was to give it a final clean using a nylon brush in the pistol drill: The oil filter suction tube was fed in from the end and secured. Then the oil level indicator and float was fitted. The float sits in the oil and supports a thin aluminium tube in a gunmetal housing. These were repaired many moons ago and have been in storage awaiting this moment. It was nice just to have them ready to fit. We treated the sump with a bead of modern silicone gasket and then held it up and nipped up the nuts. Tomorrow's task is to fit the cover over the timing case and then the oil pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Progress has been a bit slow today but we have done some more. The first part was to fit the timing case cover. A bead of silicone gasket and it went on perfectly. However, the bolts were a real fight. Firstly they had to be cleaned up and then they were found to be too tight so each had a die nut run over it. Eventually, they all went in and the case was closed up. At this point it was noticed that the three fasteners for the crank seal bush which is a white metal casting, were odd. Hex screws had been fitted in the past but they should really be cheese head screws so I shall have to make some up in due course. The next item to fit was the oil pump assembly. This had been in the cupboard for some months awaiting installation. The later style pump that we have is mounted low down on the sump with a skew gear and shaft drive taken from a slot in the end of the camshaft. The early pattern pump had been mounted directly onto the end of the camshaft and required priming each morning which drivers were inclined to forget to do. This was a fight to fit again due to small misalignments and it took considerable time easing holes and adjusting bolts. Eventually, it went and all was well. The oil pipe was found and cleaned up before fitting and we finished the day with it all looking very pretty. Tomorrow, we will make a start fitting the manifolds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_bish Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Looking great as usual chaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 We have had a nice day today although I have managed to lose a couple of early photos. To start with, the inlet manifold was hung. The gaskets had been prepared some time ago so after cleaning up the studs with a die nut yesterday, it was quite simple to mount the manifold. Each stud was coated with graphited grease to ease dismantling at some future date. I have lost the final picture of this but the manifold is now fitted and ready to carry the governor and carburettor when they have been overhauled. The next job was to fit the exhaust manifold, again using gaskets which had been cut and were in stock. Unfortunately, two of the studs which we had replaced were a bit crooked due to the remnants of the original studs still being present. These were dug out, the studs replaced and the manifold finally secured. The next task was to hang the rear springs. Father has spent many an hour turning up new shackle pins and bushing the springs as well as painting them so now was the moment of truth. First task was to remove the pins. The pins were oiled and the rear shackle was fitted. Then, using Father's lifting table to raise the 150lb spring, the first pin was fitted. The lifting table and engine crane we have are worth their weight in gold and were very good investments. The table made this job very easy to control the alignment and there was no temptation to feel inside the bush with one's fingers. This is most definately not a good idea as one slip results in the trimming of one's fingers! Something to avoid. The pin was rotated to bring the feather into line with the slot and the nut was fitted to the back to secure it all in place. One down and one to go. The left hand side was approached in exactly the same manner. Both rear springs are finally hung on the chassis and there is space to walk around the front of the chassis once again! The next two tasks are to finally fit the water pump to the engine and to install the front axle with stub axles fitted as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Christmas is a great time for doing things and also for seeing family and old friends. We have spent a bit too much time doing the latter and, what with returning to work yesterday, progress has not been as fast as we would have liked, However, with a deadline of May 2018, we are not panicking yet! We have done a little more. Here is the missing photo of the inlet manifold, now installed. We wanted to get the front axle installed complete with stub axles. We had previously hung the axle roughly in place to see how it fitted but had not finally secured it. First task was to trim the bolts to length, machine the letters from the top and drill for the split pins. The rhs was fine but, of course, the other side would not give in without a fight. It took a lot of leverage, jacking and judicious use of G-clamps before the bolts would go through the holes. Success at last and all pinned up. We also split pinned the shackle pins at the same time to prevent them from being forgotten. We looked at fitting the stub axles but found that the locking pin slots are not correctly positioned and the king pins need to be lowered by 1/4" as well. We couldn't resolve those in the time available but two collars are to be turned up to space the pins downwards slightly before new slots are cut. Cutting the locking slots is going to be tricky. The king pins are secured by a 7/16" dia round pin, driven through the axle, half in the axle and half in the king pin. The holes in the axle are already there so a drill fed into the hole will only be cutting on the side where it hits the king pin. It sounds like a recipe for a broken drill but we shall see. When we fitted the repaired water pump, everything was fine until the nuts were nipped up which held the two castings together. There is a bearing in each and obviously, they are not quite perfectly in line so the shaft tightend up. To relieve this, I used one of last year's Christmas presents to open up the bush slightly. This is an expanding reamer. A bolt down the centre can be used to spread it just a couple of thou and it made all the difference Once that had been sorted, it became obvious that there was far too much end-float in the shaft and the bearing can be seen protruding by 3/16" To alleviate this, two washers were made up to take up the slack and the shoulder on the spindle was machined back by 1/8" to reduce the distance between the bearings. These all worked well and the pump is now finally fitted, complete with it's greaser and the screw to lock the gland nut. We even hung the fan on temporarily to see how it looked. It still needs cleaning up. Happy New Year everyone. I am off outside to turn up some king pin collars! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8_10 Brass Cleaner Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Steve The engine is looking very good. But I do hope you do not seriouslt machine the markings off the heads of the bolts? I file them off, far quicker. I would suggest a varyation on the file for the king pin problem. Use the dremmell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Thanks Hedd. It looks nice at the moment but it will go off soon enough once we start it! Yes, we do machine the heads. Once the lathe is set up and the toolpost positioned, it takes only a moment to skim them. You can rattle through a jar of 100 in no time. We did file a few at first but the bolts still looked as if someone had filed them rather than that they might have been made that way. The king pin slot is an interesting one. The Dremel would do it. At the moment, I am thinking of taking an old end mill ( with four flutes) and deliberately blunting the side edges before gently feeding it down the hole in a pistol drill. The blunted edges should reduce how much it wanders and the multiple cutting edges should reduce the opportunity for it to 'grab' and break. Once through, I can use an expanding reamer to clean it up and then turn up a fitted pin to drive in. I think the originals failed because the pins did not fit tightly enough allowing the king pin to fret. That is the theory anyway! I should be pleased to hear any more suggestions. I turned up the king pin spacing collars this afternoon ready to be fitted the next time I am in Devon. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8_10 Brass Cleaner Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 The king pin slot is an interesting one. The Dremel would do it. At the moment, I am thinking of taking an old end mill ( with four flutes) and deliberately blunting the side edges before gently feeding it down the hole in a pistol drill. The blunted edges should reduce how much it wanders and the multiple cutting edges should reduce the opportunity for it to 'grab' and break. Once through, I can use an expanding reamer to clean it up and then turn up a fitted pin to drive in. I think the originals failed because the pins did not fit tightly enough allowing the king pin to fret. That is the theory anyway! I should be pleased to hear any more suggestions. how about a rotabroach cutter? You could rig up a guide using the 'centre', then small cuts and light pressure and it shouldn't wander too much. I've used them at an angle on flat plate which is the same idea and it worked well. Lots of coolant/cutting oil required however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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