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WW1 Thornycroft restoration

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We have 1963 109 as well within the collection! I bought it about 25 years ago as that we needed something to tow the two Autocars around on a Trailer when we took them to "Meets". It is ex -RAF Regiment and had the equivalent of about 7K miles on the clock when I bought it - now reached about 27K only after all of these years.. Looking a bit shabby but dearly loved by us all!

 

Tony

 

 

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21 hours ago, Old Bill said:

We have 1963 109 as well within the collection! I bought it about 25 years ago as that we needed something to tow the two Autocars around on a Trailer when we took them to "Meets". It is ex -RAF Regiment and had the equivalent of about 7K miles on the clock when I bought it - now reached about 27K only after all of these years.. Looking a bit shabby but dearly loved by us all!

 

Tony

 

 

Stupidity! Not 1963 - should have said 1983!

 

Tony

 

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My wife has a 1983 109 ex raf too, defender style rear lights and served all it's life at RAF Newton as a airport run around. How did your yellow stripe look? There is some variation on that.

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We are going to be in trouble here for going off topic - but very briefly, it did not have a stripe and was painted the standard "black and green" cam pattern when I bought it. It spent most of its service life with 16 Sqn Wildenrath as a "Tracker Radar Towing Rapier Rover" - Service No. 73KB70

Tony

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On 6/17/2018 at 2:38 AM, dgrev said:

Steve - I think in time you will agree that to have persevered with the Brighton run would have been a bad decision....

......Now you have no schedule, can get that engine running sweetly and can enjoy the rest of the restoration, other than the wings (mudguards) installation that is.

Regards

Doug

(Aussie one)

Thanks Doug. Yes, it wouldn't have made it and we would have spent a lot of money for nothing. We did play the same trick with the Dennis though and got away with it! We have now set ourselves another deadline as we have promised to take something to the 'Tanks and Trucks' do at Bovington at the end of August followed by a road-run to the Great Dorset Steam Fair. That will be a 140 mile round trip so it would be nice to get a few miles under our belts first!

We took the blocks down to Exeter to see our friend Dave who had very kindly offered to hone them out. I had never seen this done so it was educational as well. The honing head is made by Delapena and has an adjuster on the top to push the stones outwards. The result is quite a torque reaction which caused the drill to 'kick' as it went over bumps in the bores. It quickly settled down and Dave took out somewhere between one and two thou. The swarf was quite noticeable so it was certainly cutting!

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He worked it up and down the length of the bores constantly to give a spiral cut without circular grooves

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Once we got the blocks home, I set about cleaning and sealing up the crankcase starting with a coat of Hylomar on each valve follower. I don't want any more water getting in if we can help it.

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I also cut a thin paer gasket to go under each block.

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These were marked out by tapping around the edge of the block with a ball pein hammer.

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The second piston went back and we were ready to try to refit the block.

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I don't have any pictures of it at this time as we ran out of hands. Suffice to say that I got too enthusiatic and broke a ring which irked me in the extreme so we stopped for the day.

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Sunday morning when I had got my temper back and it wasn't so hot, we had another go and this time, all was well. We just used the chain block to lower the block back onto the pistons whilst I squeezed the rings in one at a time.

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The other two pistons were fitted, less one ring, and we are ready for the next time.

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The replacement ring turned up today, £20.10, so finishing the reassembly will be the task for the next visit down South. In the meantime, still plenty of bits to do!

Steve  :)

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Suffice to say that I got too enthusiatic and broke a ring which irked me in the extreme so we stopped for the day."

I bet you said, "Wouldn't that make you mad", or words to that extent.

Keep up the good work.

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Posted (edited)

Nice work! Another trick you can do with the paper gasket is give it a quick coat of shellac just before you do the assembly when its still wet - this makes a nice seal and makes the gasket more durable. When I disassembled my big Wisconsin T-head many of the gaskets were original and done this way including under the blocks , the oil pan and the timing gear cover.

 

Edited by Tharper
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Posted (edited)

We have been plodding on this week. I really want to get on with the engine but living 200 miles from the lorry does make it very difficult! I have been amusing myself by turning up two new carburettor jets slightly bigger than the original but smaller than the one I made when we tried to run the beast.DSCN7634.JPG.0b8e022bb2bd699b932b425faabd32dc.JPG

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It is nice to get back on the lathe after all the heavy ironwork recently.

The next item has been the petrol tap. The one we fitted was a simple tapered plug cock which looks almost exactly like the one in the parts book. Unfortunately, despite my lapping it in it leaked very slowly. If we were running the lorry every day then we wouldn't even have noticed but because we leave the vehicles laid up for such long periods, we would have noticed the loss. To get over this, I decided to make a new cock but with a cork lining. I tried PTFE on the Dennis but I have learned that PTFE swells in petrol and the tap seizes. I have a cork lined valve which will fit the Dennis so I copied that.

First job was to turn up the body and machine flats for the bosses.

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These were silver soldered of course!

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I bored it out after soldering so there was no distortion.

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Then the spindle, a nice bit of turning.

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After drilling and tapping, the handle was screwed in.

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Now for the cork which came from a sherry bottle. I drilled it through at 23/64" to give a slight interference on the spindle. High speed and low feed rate is the secret here.

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Have you ever tried turning cork? It is evil stuff! I now resort to grinding it. I have made up a flat piece of steel which fits the nose of the Dremel and also the toolpost and, using a grinding wheel, can machine it at up to 0.010" each cut. It is quite accurate too.

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I Loctited a driving pin into the spindle.

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And after copious 3 in One oil on the cork, a working tap!

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Well, for a while anyway. I was lazy and used a normal nut and washer on the cork. This meant that all of the drive was transmitted through the peg and it tore the cork up. I therefore made a fancy flanged castle nut and machined another cork which was composite this time.

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Success!

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This weekend, I have made up the tailboard catches. They are not something sensible like a peg in a hole but rather fancy flip-over catches, bent out of 3/4" bar. First task was to make a bending jig.

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I heated the bar with the propane torch and it bent OK. The blacksmith's hearth would have been a much quicker heat source but that is in Devon waiting for me to build a blacksmith's forge. Another future project!

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The bosses were turned up, had a flat machined on them and were then silver soldered into place.

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The pegs were turned up and soldered into place as well.

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Finally, I turned up the pivots. These are bolted to the tailboard through the middle using a 3/8" bolt with the catches free to turn on them.

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Something else to fit once the engine is sorted.

I have been very highly recommended to wash the grit out of the blocks and valves with plenty of paraffin. This is a very sensible idea but I will have to take the first block off again to do it. Oh well.

Steve

Edited by Old Bill
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Planned some days off during the holiday so I can visit the Dorset Steam Fair and admire your work on this nice machine !

 

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Would you mind posting some more photos of your dremmel/lathe attachment? I could use a similar device for a project I have.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Chris Hall said:

Would you mind posting some more photos of your dremmel/lathe attachment? I could use a similar device for a project I have.

I think that the post says that it is just a hole in a piece of plate. That certainly works. You can use the original plastic end nut / spanner, but it looks like Steve has machined a metal one with the right thread. 

If you have a 3D printer then there are some designs that might help: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2846032 as a random example. 

If money is no object: this machined aluminium routing adaptor might be a good starting point. The correct thread, with a split-clamp is probably optimal. 

If you are going to do a lot of grinding then it might be worth getting something with better bearings to make a dedicated grinder. One of the cheap eBay router spindles perhaps. 

 

Edited by andypugh

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Hi Chris.

This is what I have done although it is not very good, really. As Andy has suggested, I removed the plastic nut at the front of the tool and just mounted the tool through a steel plate.

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I turned up the steel collar because there was not enough thread in the original nut to get a good bite.

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The plate fits into my parting tool holder.

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The whole arrangement is not really stiff enough but it was good enough for cork. If I were doing it again, I would cut the thread in a piece of 1/2" bar and grip that in the toolpost after screwing the motor into it. The Dremel bearings aren't good enough for any sort of repeatable accuracy but it did the job I needed. Good luck with yours!

Steve    :)

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I have a DIY grade Bosch POF500A router that I use as a die grinder (have a look on Ebay). I have both 1/4" and 6mm collets for it so can hold both router bits and grinding stones in it. There is a parallel section where it clamps into the router frame that is just right for clamping it to a lathe and the bearings are fine for light grinding.

If anyone is thinking of using any kind of toolpost grinder on a lathe, do go to some lengths to stop the grinding dust getting on the bed in particular but also anywhere there are parts moving against each other - which on a lathe is pretty well everywhere !  Even the chuck will not be improved by a sprinkling of carburundum grit.

David

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On 7/14/2018 at 9:40 AM, David Herbert said:

I have a DIY grade Bosch POF500A router that I use as a die grinder (have a look on Ebay). I have both 1/4" and 6mm collets for it so can hold both router bits and grinding stones in it. There is a parallel section where it clamps into the router frame that is just right for clamping it to a lathe and the bearings are fine for light grinding.

If anyone is thinking of using any kind of toolpost grinder on a lathe, do go to some lengths to stop the grinding dust getting on the bed in particular but also anywhere there are parts moving against each other - which on a lathe is pretty well everywhere !  Even the chuck will not be improved by a sprinkling of carburundum grit.

David

Also to note is the siteing of surface Grinders in proximity to lathes, milling machines etc... 

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