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'86 Bedford MJ - stupid questions


Stone

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Hi all,

While I get halfway up to speed on our Bedford's aspects mechanical, I keep running into more questions. Here's a little list

of things that's been bugging me; if anyone can shed any light I'd be very grateful!

 

1) Oil spec is listed as OMD90 - what's the best civvie match? Fully-mineral or semi-synth? How often will it need changing? Same spec for engine/gearbox/hubs, or different?

 

2) Same question with coolant: what civvie types mix with AL39? I've been topping up with deionised water for the time being

but I don't want to dilute the mix too much - equally I don't want to use incompatible antifreeze and have it clot in the block though!

 

3) Same question with brake fluid - is it actually brake fluid or oil-based (know the CVR(T) catches people out...)? It's labelled OX8.

 

4) While we sort out C licenses for everyone we have an ex-TA guy who's been driving for us. On his initial walkround he

pulled out a steel pin (rusty outside, clean and shiny on the inside, with a tiny strip of red/white tape on it) from the

rear edge of the brake master cylinder, peered at it then replaced it as part of his checks. When I asked him what it was for

he just said 'no idea, we were just told to make sure it moves freely'(!). What's it for? (pic attached)

 

5) Has anyone added anything in to the electrical system? Where's the most convenient place to splice things in? I was

planning to run an extra wire from the battery master switch under the driver's seat - but this will obviously only work if

it isolates the positive side of the batteries from the rest of the electricals, rather than isolating the negative side from

the chassis (which makes more sense and prevents 'dropped spanner' incidents, but hey, it's British!). Need somewhere to run

the stereo off!

 

Thank you :D

 

Stone

bedford-brakes.JPG

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Answer to No.4: It's an actuator indicator rod. If it comes out too far (Red line) then it's time to adjust the drum brakes! As the linings wear & the slave cylinder pistons expand increasingly outwards. then the master cylinder is pushing more fluid from the reserviours. Its operated by an Air piston in the cylindrical chamber bolted onto the master cylinder.

Hope that helps on that one!.............:coffee:

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Dam;

Ferret fixer beat me to it.

 

As regards 5, aren't there standard electrical sockets on the dash for pin plugs? It's quite easy to feed off the back of them with ring terminals. They're good for quite a high load as well. Obviously they're isloated by the battery and not permanent live so you'll lose station presets. If that's a issue then you'll have to go off the isolator.

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Answer to No.4: It's an actuator indicator rod. If it comes out too far (Red line) then it's time to adjust the drum brakes! As the linings wear & the slave cylinder pistons expand increasingly outwards. then the master cylinder is pushing more fluid from the reserviours. Its operated by an Air piston in the cylindrical chamber bolted onto the master cylinder.

Hope that helps on that one!.............:coffee:

Aha, thank you! Is it supposed to stick out that far, or are you supposed to shove it back in? There's about an inch of untarnished metal before the red stripe so I guess that means it's ok.

 

As regards 5, aren't there standard electrical sockets on the dash for pin plugs? It's quite easy to feed off the back of them with ring terminals. They're good for quite a high load as well.

I did wonder what they were for! (if you mean the ones above the dual air pressure gauge, that is) They looked a bit out of place - would never have guessed they were just attached to the battery. That does make it a lot easier then.

 

Obviously they're isloated by the battery and not permanent live so you'll lose station presets. If that's a issue then you'll have to go off the isolator.

Yeah, I'm happy with the sparky leccy bits :)

 

Cheers

 

Stone

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Hi all,

While I get halfway up to speed on our Bedford's aspects mechanical, I keep running into more questions. Here's a little list

of things that's been bugging me; if anyone can shed any light I'd be very grateful!

 

1) Oil spec is listed as OMD90 - what's the best civvie match? Fully-mineral or semi-synth? How often will it need changing? Same spec for engine/gearbox/hubs, or different?

 

2) Same question with coolant: what civvie types mix with AL39? I've been topping up with deionised water for the time being

but I don't want to dilute the mix too much - equally I don't want to use incompatible antifreeze and have it clot in the block though!

 

3) Same question with brake fluid - is it actually brake fluid or oil-based (know the CVR(T) catches people out...)? It's labelled OX8.

 

4) While we sort out C licenses for everyone we have an ex-TA guy who's been driving for us. On his initial walkround he

pulled out a steel pin (rusty outside, clean and shiny on the inside, with a tiny strip of red/white tape on it) from the

rear edge of the brake master cylinder, peered at it then replaced it as part of his checks. When I asked him what it was for

he just said 'no idea, we were just told to make sure it moves freely'(!). What's it for? (pic attached)

 

5) Has anyone added anything in to the electrical system? Where's the most convenient place to splice things in? I was

planning to run an extra wire from the battery master switch under the driver's seat - but this will obviously only work if

it isolates the positive side of the batteries from the rest of the electricals, rather than isolating the negative side from

the chassis (which makes more sense and prevents 'dropped spanner' incidents, but hey, it's British!). Need somewhere to run

the stereo off!

 

Thank you :D

 

Stone

Question 1, OMD90 is fully mineral

Question 2,AL39 is inhibited ethanediol

Question 3, OX8 is normal dot 4 brake fuild

Hope this helps you.

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I have a copy of an MOD manual that states what should be done and when for various situations (Use, storage, short term lay up etc) which details service intervals etc. I bought it off ebay from someone called 'vintage manuals' or something like that. I could run off a copy if you like (although it may take me a couple of weeks as the manual isn't at my home). If you are interested let me know.

 

Mark

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