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Not yet Al, hopefully in a week or so's time, ( Birthday time!!!). It will be going to my old/new yard in Birmingham. I plan to tackle the bit of cab rot under the driver's foot well, check all systems, rub her down and put some new paint on. Show accommodation on the back, will also need to be sorted, along the lines of two containers ten ft and eight ft, so if I need the truck for something else I can just crane the boxes off.

I have a just released and unmolested radio box (15ft) in A1 condition, that has all the stuff left in there electric board, heater, NBC ventilation system, lights, etc.

Looking at the construction, I don't think I could cut it down to fit, so it will probably go on sale.

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Did you have any problems with the fuel injection pump, when did you own it?

 

Most certainly did Simon, if the truck was not run every 24 hrs the fuel seemed to drop back from the injector pump to the tank. Every time I started it I would have to crack the bleed screw, wedge a jam jar under the bleed outlet and prime the pump. I had a piece of wire through the priming lever to make this process easier. I think it needs a check valve installing in the fuel line from the tank to the lift pump. I see you are advertising for a replacement fuel pump, don't think this will help.

 

I also understand that you may be looking for a nice hydraulic winch to go under it, I do have a very nice unit which would easily fit. PM me if you are interested. I also have new cab panels for it and the grab handle which should be right across the front panel, you can have that. I have brand new springs for the diff lock chambers plus pins and bushes for the springs.

John.

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Most certainly did Simon, if the truck was not run every 24 hrs the fuel seemed to drop back from the injector pump to the tank. Every time I started it I would have to crack the bleed screw, wedge a jam jar under the bleed outlet and prime the pump. I had a piece of wire through the priming lever to make this process easier. I think it needs a check valve installing in the fuel line from the tank to the lift pump. I see you are advertising for a replacement fuel pump, don't think this will help.

 

I also understand that you may be looking for a nice hydraulic winch to go under it, I do have a very nice unit which would easily fit. PM me if you are interested. I also have new cab panels for it and the grab handle which should be right across the front panel, you can have that. I have brand new springs for the diff lock chambers plus pins and bushes for the springs.

John.

 

We had similar problems starting a Leyland Freighter. A new lift pump improved the problem, and eventually I fitted a non return valve to the supply fuel line. There is virtually no resistance in these valves so it wont restrict the flow of fuel. They are easy to fit in line with normal fuel pipe and jubilee clips. Cost is about six to eight quid and they can be found on E Bay. Our Freighters starting is now instantaneous. :)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10mm-Fuel-one-way-valve-petrol-diesel-non-return-carb_W0QQitemZ360133379993QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_Boat_Engines_EngineParts_SM?hash=item360133379993&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

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Thank you both for your very helpful replies, Dave Crouch who I am buying the Foden from has had his Mech check the system out and found that the lift pump was leaking into the sump, this has now been changed and after a few days left to stand, it started up on the button, so hopefully problem solved.

I am picking it this weekend so i will soon find out!

The EBay valve I have bought to try on my Unimog 404-1 which drains back into the tank and takes a age to start if left, I will let you know how I get on. The bits you have for the Foden I am very interested in John, give me a price. I did wonder what had happened to the grab rail from the front grill, I presumed that the front panel had been replaced by a fiberglass one without the rail at some stage. I am interested in a hydraulic winch for it, what size cable and single line pull does it have? If you have a photo and a price you could send me.

This Foden does seem to have done the rounds abit, I know of another owner Andy Davis who owned it around 2006-7.

I have been working on Grumpy's 8 legger ex-tanker Foden today, soon to be a very useful beaver-tail recovery, complete with hiab and winch. The load bed is now welded up, painted and on! Photos coming soon!

Cheers!

PS. someone please buy my Radio box on Ebay, I need to buy Diesel!!!

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Yes that would perhaps acount for the fact that the engine oil never needed topping up but when changed always smelt of diesel !

 

The winch is 8 tonnes single line pull bull wheel capstan with 275 feet of 16mm rope, similar but not the same as a Crusader 35t type. You really do need to see it though.

 

Do you have a crane and winch for the beavertail as I have probably got suitable ones for that too ?

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Really after a drum type winch, for ease of use over anything else, 16mm cable is spot on and the line pull is about right, having not seen it I won't dismiss it altogether. The Grumpy one, has a nice Atlas crane and a hydraulic winch (5ton approx), but I know he is looking to upgrade the winch to something with more pull, 432's and the like will be regular transport. He owns your old Militant by the way, a more useful bit of kit you could not want for, the crane itself is worth it's weight in gold.

Would it be OK to come up to see what you have in the near future and I sure Grumpy would come to. By then I will have a better idea of what I'm after.

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Do you have a crane and winch for the beavertail as I have probably got suitable ones for that too ?

 

Hi John long time no speak, your old Militant is still running well.

 

I've got an Atlas AK3000 Hiab to go the the 8 legger and the beaver tail body is the one off my FL10. Its got a Ramsey RPH8000 Hydraulic winch on at present, but it could really do with one around 6 - 8 ton like the one off the Crusaider.

 

I also need a shaft driven Hydraulic pump as the PTO on the Foden is via a prop shaft that used to drive the fuel transfer pump (was a Foden Tanker)

 

I think I have your number at home but could you PM it as well just in case I cant find it.

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Hi John long time no speak, your old Militant is still running well.

 

I've got an Atlas AK3000 Hiab to go the the 8 legger and the beaver tail body is the one off my FL10. Its got a Ramsey RPH8000 Hydraulic winch on at present, but it could really do with one around 6 - 8 ton like the one off the Crusaider.

 

I also need a shaft driven Hydraulic pump as the PTO on the Foden is via a prop shaft that used to drive the fuel transfer pump (was a Foden Tanker)

 

I think I have your number at home but could you PM it as well just in case I cant find it.

 

PM'd numbers just give me a call when you want to come up. I have 2 complete Crusader Plummett winches for sale as well as various other hydraulic and mechanical ones. I asked about the crane as I have a TICO continous slew with winch built in to it for sale.

 

I have one shaft driven pump but not sure what its volume is.

 

Glad to hear the Militant is still going strong.

John.

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I was standing under the load bed today ( never been able to do that before!) And noticed a pipe leading from the the top of the transfer box, upon following it, I found it lead to an old pop bottle, half full of oil, cable tied to the chassis, I can only presume that it is a breather, anyone have any ideas, and why it is kicking out so much oil? Also this Rolls Royce 305 smokes a lot and I mean a lot, for a good ten Min's or so, from cold, runs lumpy as well, but once warm clears and run' s fine. Friends of mine have RR Eagles in their trucks and they don't smoke no where near as bad, or run rough when just started.Could it be a cold start excess fuel stuck on?

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I was standing under the load bed today ( never been able to do that before!) And noticed a pipe leading from the the top of the transfer box, upon following it, I found it lead to an old pop bottle, half full of oil, cable tied to the chassis, I can only presume that it is a breather, anyone have any ideas, and why it is kicking out so much oil? Also this Rolls Royce 305 smokes a lot and I mean a lot, for a good ten Min's or so, from cold, runs lumpy as well, but once warm clears and run' s fine. Friends of mine have RR Eagles in their trucks and they don't smoke no where near as bad, or run rough when just started.Could it be a cold start excess fuel stuck on?

 

I would have thought it unlikely the cold start was stuck in. More than likely to be an injector problem. I drive a truck with a Perkins Eagle (Rolls Royce) TX 340. I have had injectors stick on that one. My problem was caused by rust in the head casting putting uneven pressure on the injector body. Once they had been removed and cleaned up, they seemed to work ok when they were put back in.

 

If you take the injectors out, and they can be sods to get out, have them tested to see if they are working properly. If they aren't spraying and only squirting in jets of diesel, you will get a lot of smoke and misfiring on startup and black smoke on acceleration when warm. No doubt a set of new injectors will cure the problem, but don't spend money unnecessarily.

 

Failing that, your comment about the breather mod may indicate cylinder bore wear or ring problems leading to lack of compression. Does it breathe heavily when it is running? :)

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Also this Rolls Royce 305 smokes a lot and I mean a lot, for a good ten Min's or so, from cold, runs lumpy as well, but once warm clears and run' s fine. Friends of mine have RR Eagles in their trucks and they don't smoke no where near as bad, or run rough when just started.Could it be a cold start excess fuel stuck on?

 

Simon, my 305 in an S26 with only 25Kon the clock is exactly the same from cold, starts fine but runs badly for about a minute, then picks up nicely on all 6 but continues to smoke for 5 minutes or so. Smoke is a nasty brown colour and gives the eyes severe grief, but once warm it runs as smooth as silk. Let me know if you get to the bottom of it.

 

Mike

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Could it be a cold start excess fuel stuck on?

 

Simon,

 

We had a Scammell EKA in workshops many years ago, with excess smoke, turned out to be the CAV Thermostart cold start aid in the manifold, it was leaking fuel through all the time. Is this what you meant? Should be easy to check, by blanking off fuel supply to it.

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Simon,

 

We had a Scammell EKA in workshops many years ago, with excess smoke, turned out to be the CAV Thermostart cold start aid in the manifold, it was leaking fuel through all the time. Is this what you meant? Should be easy to check, by blanking off fuel supply to it.

 

And my TM 4x4 tipper (zero miles, ex German reserve stock but run up every 4 weeks throughout its life) did exactly the same, the silly cold start valve leaked fuel into the manifold from the small header tank. Took an age to clear the acrid smoke :cry: :cry:

 

I decided to get rid of the cold start altogether - I did eventually, but the truck went too :-D

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And my TM 4x4 tipper (zero miles, ex German reserve stock but run up every 4 weeks throughout its life) did exactly the same, the silly cold start valve leaked fuel into the manifold from the small header tank. Took an age to clear the acrid smoke :cry: :cry:

 

I decided to get rid of the cold start altogether - I did eventually, but the truck went too :-D

 

This is begining to make sense as on odd occasions it has been fine from cold. The only cold start devices I have seen on my 305 are a Start Pilot pump on the dash and a plunger on the fuel pump which someone has extended so that it can be reached without tilting the cab. I shall have to see if there is a fuel feed direct to the manifold.

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I would have thought it unlikely the cold start was stuck in. More than likely to be an injector problem. I drive a truck with a Perkins Eagle (Rolls Royce) TX 340. I have had injectors stick on that one. My problem was caused by rust in the head casting putting uneven pressure on the injector body. Once they had been removed and cleaned up, they seemed to work ok when they were put back in.

 

If you take the injectors out, and they can be sods to get out, have them tested to see if they are working properly. If they aren't spraying and only squirting in jets of diesel, you will get a lot of smoke and misfiring on startup and black smoke on acceleration when warm. No doubt a set of new injectors will cure the problem, but don't spend money unnecessarily.

 

Failing that, your comment about the breather mod may indicate cylinder bore wear or ring problems leading to lack of compression. Does it breathe heavily when it is running? :)

 

Simon, I am sure the injectors will come out because I took them out about 6 years ago ! I gave them to a contact at a Perkins dealer who said they tested them and they were OK but I never believed that they had been tested as they were still packed exactly as I had given them to him. I think he put them in his car forgot about them and then just gave them back to me on his next visit.

With regard to the breather issue on the transfer box that bottle was not there when I had the truck.

John.

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I think I will get them checked then, as on start up there is more smoke than a Van Halen concert!!!

Light blue on tick over, which turns to brown if the throttle is beeped. it lasts for a good ten minuets and then clears. Then engine runs sweat as a nut when warm, and a nameless driver had her doing a good 65mph on the way back, so don't think bores are worn.

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