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paul connor

Land Rover series 3 help required

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Can any one spare a few hours to help me? I can supply a nice pub lunch for your time..

 

 

I now have a nice misfire/rough running under load. As well as Carb needs setting up properly and I cannot seem to make the Zenith speak my language!

 

My plugs foul up all soot like, so to me says un burnt fuel from carb. Running rough under load I would say a plug or lead.. but working on my own or with some body with no idea what end the engine is etc is a drain!

 

Im located in Brighton.. any help would be great! most of all for the Carb!

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Paul. This one of my favourite questions, that I have to ask.

 

Have you checked your condenser?

 

Also have you got your plugs really clean i.e. sand blasting your plugs?

 

Can you fit the pub lunch in a large jiffy bag, might get here before Christmas :-D

 

But if you can get it here (the Rover not the lunch). I'll do my best to help.

 

 

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Paul, Zeniths were infamous for distorting and causing all sorts of problems.

You have a choice

A new genuine Zenith not cheap but will do the job properly :whistle:

 

B Weber conversion good on fuel etc but restricts a bit

 

C continue to b*gger about with w**ked out old carb which has been REME'd :evil: :evil:

 

But do a compression test 1st it will tell you alot

 

Kindest regards

 

HF :-D

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I agree with HF. A new carb worked wonders for my Lightweight. I rebuilt the old one twice, messed about with it etc. Fitted a new one from Craddocks and it's been fine since.

 

http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk - you need an ERC2886N, £68 + Vat

 

Chris

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The weber carb is very easy to set-up as well, only two adjustment screws!

I've had them on two landrovers.

One thing to watch out if fitting one is to make sure you have full throttle movement, my first one didn't. I think the throttle spindle rotates in the opposite direction on the weber to the original zenith and even though the original link rod will fit may need adjusting in length.

Carb is last on list of things to check on a tune up though.

As HF said start with compression test, then check valve clearances, next is ignition system.

Only when all the above are sorted should you try to adjust carb.

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Fouled plugs also can say not enough spark or wrong plugs. Clean throughly and check gap. Condenser cannot really be checked except by changing, at the same time check points for pitting gap etc, and new distributor cap, these can give all sorts of fun but still look OK. A plug gap for a couple of quid is well worth investing in, plugs bettween lead and plug and lets you see the spark with engine running, and no shocks! Always Electrics first and fuel second. Is it 12 or 24 volt ? If you have friendly local Crypton tuner, well worth getting it checked, takes a lot of head scratching out of the equation.

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I now have a nice misfire/rough running under load. As well as Carb needs setting up properly and I cannot seem to make the Zenith speak my language!

 

My plugs foul up all soot like, so to me says un burnt fuel from carb. Running rough under load I would say a plug or lead..

 

Paul, if the electrics are inefficient, no amount of carb adjustment will compensate. The symptoms mentioned above (assuming it passes compression testing) are all compatable with electrical problems. Over the years of tinkering with poorly running engines when I have been convinced it is a fuel issue, about 90% of the problems lay in condenser, plug , points & rotor issues.

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I know its beating a tired old drum, but the electronic kit such as Frank Jolley makes are worth there price everytime.

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I would agree with clive that a miss fire under load would seem to indicate ignition problems try running the engine in the dark with the bonnet up and see if there any stray sparks anywhere

I should be around between christmas and new year if you need any help

 

Chris

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Invest in a new distributor cap, condenser and rotor arm. Points check for wear, if any doubt replace. For the money at least you know you have a level start. Unforunatley a lot of this stuff can't be checked by eye. Leads for instance, get engine running and take of each lead one at a time, if any sudden engine changes you have found the core of the problem.

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any on site help is good! as with out my landy i cannot get to th pig and get the other tools! ie compression test!

 

Chris B are you avail soon? what dates.. i think i met you at seaford oddness festival.. well not sure it called that!

 

Cliv! shame you dont live closer! well good for you as you know i would be over every weekend!

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Leads for instance, get engine running and take of each lead one at a time, if any sudden engine changes you have found the core of the problem.

 

Tony, I think you meant to say the other way round. If when you have the engine running & disconnect the lead to a plug & it makes no difference to the running you have found the dodgy lead. If when you disconnect a lead & the engine running gets worse you know that plug & circuit was working.

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Yes we met briefly at seaford I'll pm my phone number give us a call tomorrow evening

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Tony, I think you meant to say the other way round. If when you have the engine running & disconnect the lead to a plug & it makes no difference to the running you have found the dodgy lead. If when you disconnect a lead & the engine running gets worse you know that plug & circuit was working.

 

Its that age you know. :whistle:

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Thanks to ChrisB for popping over to help me out! much appreciated and good to see you again.

 

Checked over the landrover. Points all ok, plugs are fouling black so would point to fuel mixture.

 

compression test is 150 over all four cylinders.

 

condersor was not tested (sorry Clive :angry:)

 

The carb seems to be the main issue. Slow runnig screw was missing, I should have picked that issue up but the Haynes manual is not the most helpful IE *here is a picture of a typical carb on a King Tiger*

 

So replacing that helped the idle. But the mixture screw seems to be very worn as even with fully screwed in the engine revs do not change at all .

 

So its rebuild carb kit or a new one me thinks. so new it is! i shall order it this week.

 

that would explain the black exhaust smoke poor idle and hopefully the misfire! as well as poor fuel consumption!

 

Ill let you all know how it goes!

 

Any advice or anything you think we have over looked please say :-)

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anything you think we have over looked please say :-)

 

The condenser!

 

You may well have a carb problem. But for the sake of a couple of quid change the condenser before you spend your Christmas bonus(!). This has two advantages (1) Peace of mind that you have replaced it before forking out a lot of money on a carb (2) It will shut me up - should be worth it ;-)

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where is the best place to get one and how much? I shall get one. I shall even show pictures of me fitting it:) hehe

 

are they all the same in the 24v FFR? can i get from landrover?

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Just a normal 0.2 mfd, that is a distributor one. But not a car suppression one, as it needs to withstand up to 300 volts. Should be just a few quid.

 

Yes independant verification of you fitting it would go a long way to reassuring me Paul & no trick photography!

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I would fit a new carb, ive bought a few landys running like yours and a new carb has always done the trick. Make sure you set it up right when you fit it though.

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hmmm well the saga continues! Cliv! I have replaced the Condenser!no change ! new carb no change! its running very lumpy under load!

 

So now i would be pointed at plugs and leads? poss a dizzy? not much left... the fuel is fine, any ideas?

 

 

Any one got a spare dizzy and leads for a FFR 24v landy? for sale? or spare?

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Before you go and spend large wads of cash on dizzy etc, check the dizzy shaft, get hold of the shaft that the rotor arm attaches to and see if you get significant play side to side, this indicates the bushes are worn and probably time to replace. If not take it off and give the mechanics of it a good clean and lubricate.

 

Dont bugger around, firstly for a few quid get the consumable ignition stuff, like plugs, points, condenser, leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap changed out for new, and get it set up right, put it all together while the distributor is off, then replace the full assembly and set it up using the static timing info as per handbook.

See how it runs, considerably better i should think, even if the carb is FUBAR.

If the carb is still at fault then change the carb, you can take them apart repair kits etc, but the body is probably warped, a common fault. make sure you set it up correctly when fitting.

 

Basically make sure all of the other regular service stuff is checked at the same time, air filter cleaned, engine breathers cleaned, and tappets adjusted.

 

If you skimp and only do one bit of servicing, you will be constantly chasing other faults, and have a poor running vehicle using a fortunes worth of petrol.

 

Most things can be rectified with a damn good service, and changing out the lubricant, and keeping it topped up in the engine, boxes and diffs all helps

 

All of the above would be a good days work on your tod,but the difference will be remarkable.

The reason i know, i bought an S3 24v FFR with all of the above faults and had it running like a sewing machine, and it never gave me a moments trouble for the 2 years i had it, and that was including some very harsh Scottish winter use.

 

If you are short on wad, (And who isnt) have a look on e-bay, under military, there are plenty of sellers with shops that have cheap parts, accrue everything you need and hit it in a oner!

:tup:

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Right..

 

Well it has the following new parts now fitted to no avail.

 

Rotor arm

points

condenser! sorry Cliv didnt take a picture! but its a new one!

brand new carb

 

so now the misfire must be coming from the HT leads or a plug.

 

I shall have to wait for my mate to help as its hard to test things on your own.

I hope its not the dizzy, its not worn from what i can see..

 

 

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