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Got to agree with everyone else.  Bored?  Never, it's a pleasure watching the craftsmanship and seeing lumps of rusty scrap take on a new life. 

Parading the finished vehicle at a show is great, but the journey to get there is always more interesting.  It's what restoration is all about.

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Everyone’s feed back has been much appreciated.

Full steam ahead filling, sanding and painting. 

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On 5/25/2020 at 3:01 PM, 67burwood said:

Hi Kevin 

No not yet, I’ve also got a WOT8 manual that covers a lot of the WOT6 and have been offered a parts book but still on the hunts for a WOT6 manual 

 

Seamus

Have you tried the REME Museum? 

http://www.rememuseum.org.uk/collections/

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No I haven’t but thanks for the suggestion, I will add it to my list. 

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Tackled the dirty job today,  sanding to bear metal.

Mask, glasses and ear defenders all required, hot sweaty and generally unpleasant but a good result in the end.

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All wiped clean with thinners and ready for filler, need to get cracked on as back to full time work on Monday!!

Just out of interest what’s everyone’s thought on wether you fill and make good all the old war wounds ie pitting on the panels and general age related wear? Obviously I will be filling the new welding joints but how far do you go, after all it is 76 years old. 
 

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You can also try scraping the paint, either with a flat chisel or the end of a large file. I found this much more efficient and less dirty than sanding on my Bedford. The old paint would once I applied a bit pressure start to flake off, it is of cause very manual labor task, takes some time and sanding cant be completely avoided but the result was nice and the flakes was much nicer to clean up rather than sanding dust.  

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With the Tanker I took the view that at 65 years old it would have picked up the odd knock.  Big damage like the near side rear wheel arch that was well bent has been fixed, but smaller dings, there's a couple on the rear of the tank for example, have been left.  All part of the history and character of the thing.

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I did once chip the thick layer of paint off the armour plate on a piglet with a ball pain hammer,  noisy but affected.

As for age related wear, pitting and dings I am happy to leave them, I agree with Rob it’s all part of the history. 

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Deadline to meet!!

Made good progress over the last couple of days, filled, sanded and seam sealed where necessary.

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Applied two coats of Grey Zine primer
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Lastly I emptied the scrap bucket, bearing in mind this is just from the lower part of the cab, I had intended to save as much of the original truck as possible but sometimes you just can’t. Time permitting I will hopefully get the top coat of paint on tomorrow. 
F1774E23-504A-4C98-B14E-130F76C238D2.thumb.jpeg.d6222f69d987ff40af708b9c81572918.jpeg

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Just don’t look to closely at the inner wheel arches, by the time the outer wheel arches and 1100/20 bar grip tyres are on they thankfully won’t be seen. 

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On the last lorry we restored I re-welded a front cab mounting in 4 times as it just didnt look right and tidy enough for me.

One of my friends who also restores lorries came a long and couldnt believe what I was doing. He said once the repair is good enough why try and dress it perfectly when it will eventually be hidden away and never seen again!!

I can totally see the point now. If its on the outside and seen you make the repair as neat as possible. If its on the inside and you cant quite get it neat dont beat yourself up about it.

Kevin.

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Nice work. It's great when you can stand back and look at it aĺl in one colour. And you think yeah, I did that

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Posted (edited)

To be honest I am happy with 90% of it, ideally and in a perfect world ( ie money no object ) I should of had new inner arches fabricated but on a budget that just wasn’t happening, like you Kevin it will niggle me that it’s not right even if you can’t see it but on the inside it does at least look better. 

Edited by 67burwood
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This is my find of the month....and it’s only the 1st 😬

An original 1943 drivers hand book for the wot6 

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And!! It came with a mug!!

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10 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

And!! It came with a mug!!

What a bonus 😊

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Was it on ebay? I recall seeing something the other day stating it came with a mug!

Its a very good start to the month for you.

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3 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

It was, bargain at £10.50 😁

That is a bargain!

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Posted (edited)

It’s Green....

finely managed to finish the paint, two coats done on Saturday while it was upside down just to make sure everything was painted, couple of days to dry before turning over and going over any misses. 
 

From this 

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To this

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Turning it over was easier said than done, child labour came in handy at point.

 

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Ended up getting the paint from War Paints, it’s a satin finish synthetic but I am not sure if it was the right choice, I went for satin just to give it a bit more durability but it appears to mark just as easy as matt, it also has a curing time of up to 3-4 weeks which I didn’t know before purchase and for some unknown reason the paint is still tacky on some areas of seem sealer, any ideas ?

 

I have a question about paint and thinners, I accidentally mixed some cellulose thinners with the paint but luckily spotted it before I used it, the paint seemed to react with the thinners and after having a bad experience with a high solvent thinners pickling paint a few years ago on another project I didn’t want to take the chance, does anyone know if its ok to use ?

 

Also is there any advice for setting up a spray gun, I have an old school siphon feed Gun but it was a nightmare to set up, liquid feed adjustment made no difference, fan adjustment was either bullseye or full fan, air pressure turned down, air pressure turned up, absolute pain in the backside!!

New gravity feed gun has been ordered..

 

Edited by 67burwood
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Firstly, it looks very good.

Secondly, I have only used a gravity fed guns and I was very pleased with how they operated, I would use one everytime. To be honest the gun I use these days isnt particularly expensive either. Its a gun that is a good weight and feel.

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Gravity fed guns are more modern and all the info I’ve read say they are better, I’ve ordered a sealey one, it’s not expensive but it has good reviews. 

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45 minutes ago, 67burwood said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

Ended up getting the paint from War Paints, it’s a satin finish synthetic but I am not sure if it was the right choice, I went for satin just to give it a bit more durability but it appears to mark just as easy as matt, it also has a curing time of up to 3-4 weeks which I didn’t know before purchase and for some unknown reason the paint is still tacky on some areas of seem sealer, any ideas ?

 

I have a question about paint and thinners, I accidentally mixed some cellulose thinners with the paint but luckily spotted it before I used it, the paint seemed to react with the thinners and after having a bad experience with a high solvent thinners pickling paint a few years ago on another project I didn’t want to take the chance, does anyone know if its ok to use ?

 

 

 

For thinners with that paint, I use a standard thinners from a local agricultural machinery dealer as tractor paint is much the same as you are using. I have sprayed numerous vehicles with that paint and it may appear to have a sheen on it, but after a few weeks it will dull down and be very durable. My own Bedford QL was probably last painted about 12 years ago. You can use the cellulose thinners for gunwash after you have finished painting!

Just to add, the Fordson WOT6 I restored was done in the same paint

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That’s how the mix up happened, I was using cellulose thinners to clean the gun and then picked it up by mistake, I take it the now contaminated paint should be disposed of?

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