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1929 Leyland SQ2 WW8761


Scrunt & Farthing

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On 4/8/2020 at 7:59 AM, Scrunt & Farthing said:

I thought it may be of use to load here the sectional parts list I have for the SQ2.

Whilst some of it it SQ specific, there must be much, for example Engine and Gearbox and back axle that are, inter alia of interest to other Leyland Lorry and Bus botherers.  I believe these books are pretty scarce based on my researches.  They might also make a nice present for a wife or girlfriend if suitably bound.

The SPL is in five parts, the parts are sequential but do not follow natural section breaks, only when I got bored feeding the scanner.

 

 

 

SQ2 PL PART 1.pdf 2.06 MB · 11 downloads SQ2 PL PART 2.pdf 1.35 MB · 3 downloads SQ2 PL PART 3.pdf 741.77 kB · 3 downloads SQ2 PL PART 4.pdf 839.51 kB · 2 downloads SQ2 PL PART 5.pdf 617.18 kB · 5 downloads

Thank you for posting these parts catalogues. It would be nice to work through and compare with other catalogues to find what parts didn't change over the years. I wonder if any parts are in common with the earliest petrol lorries or even the steamers. Thats excluding nuts and bolts. Another  wet day activity.

 Doug

 

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On 4/8/2020 at 10:14 PM, nz2 said:

Thank you for posting these parts catalogues. It would be nice to work through and compare with other catalogues to find what parts didn't change over the years. I wonder if any parts are in common with the earliest petrol lorries or even the steamers. Thats excluding nuts and bolts. Another  wet day activity.

 

 

Edited by Scrunt & Farthing
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  • 4 weeks later...

The lobes on that cam are well pitted and the base circle is very close to the shaft itself which may mean it cannot be re-ground.  You could take it to Newman Cams in Kent for an opinion, they are also capable of making a new shaft.  Out of interest does it use roller followers?

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Once cleaned up both cam and crank could be spray welded or welded and re-machined.

We have at least one company in Australia who does that to build up cams for a hotter grind.  not the best way to do it but it works and these old trucks won't be doing 100,000 miles per year.

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I think that the key to this is the rollers which must be in good condition or they will break up. However I think that the cams need only to be clean and not bumpy to give a good track for the rollers to roll on. A bit of pitting will not do any harm as long as the pits don't join up. I would set about the cams with abrasive paper by hand and just rub them until they are smooth. A slight change in profile simply won't matter on an engine as crude as this and as you say you won't be working it hard anyway.

David

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The same generous benefactor that donated the W^D padlock also contributed this rather lovely ignition switch to David's  Leyland RAF-type project.

IMG_0451.thumb.JPG.1f7285c034f8a6fc10f02dadbc06484f.JPG

It will  replace this  later pattern ignition switch (marked 2843 LMLTD ) which is now surplus to requirements.

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Is this suitable for your lorry?

 

 

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On the strength of the Prof's good words, then, I'd be a bit careful of running straight back to ebay. You've obviously had your one in a million for this month, don't want to push your luck too far all at once. Might bring the odds down a bit waiting til next month 

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It was an act of generosity that made the switch surplus to requirement; that act behoves another. 

I'm sure it will look better on your dashboard than gathering dust on a shelf or in a box. 

Yours to collect once the lockdown is over. 

Andy

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On 5/11/2020 at 5:19 PM, Doc said:

It was an act of generosity that made the switch surplus to requirement; that act behoves another. 

I'm sure it will look better on your dashboard than gathering dust on a shelf or in a box. 

Yours to collect once the lockdown is over. 

 

 

Edited by Scrunt & Farthing
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4 hours ago, Scrunt & Farthing said:

If you zoom into the dashboard you can see the switch is in some kind of frame or mount... and oddly telling the same time!

 

 

 

Is the 'mount' not just a piece of wood to insulate the switch from the scuttle ?

I once drove a beautiful 1920s bus that had an old fashioned brass domestic round light switch as a magneto switch. It looked great but when the engine was running it had HT voltage on it which meant that you needed something insulating to turn it off . It started and ran great though despite this unusual feature.

David

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27 minutes ago, David Herbert said:

I once drove a beautiful 1920s bus that had an old fashioned brass domestic round light switch as a magneto switch. It looked great but when the engine was running it had HT voltage on it

LP8389 has a square of 4 of those porcelain and brass light switches. Original as far as we know. 

Head light, side light, trembler coil and magneto. 

There isn't any HT at the switch, it shorts the LT side of the mag to earth. 

 

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Yes Andy, I know that is how the switch should be wired but this one most definitely did have HT on it when running. It HURT !

I could never understand how it still ran but it wasn't my vehicle so I didn't feel it was my place to investigate.

David

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3 hours ago, David Herbert said:

Yes Andy, I know that is how the switch should be wired but this one most definitely did have HT on it when running. It HURT !

I could never understand how it still ran but it wasn't my vehicle so I didn't feel it was my place to investigate.

David

Not HT but it will give you a fair belt when the points open and the magnetic field collapses in the primary.

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The alloy switch was the standard for maggy cut out, perhaps the brass one was for lights? The dash light is very reminiscent of those fitted to motorbikes (1930's BSA etc) where the dash was on top of the fuel tank. The light was operated by twisting it left/right and could be unclipped, still connected by a lead, to be used as an inspection light.

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11 hours ago, radiomike7 said:

Not HT but it will give you a fair belt when the points open and the magnetic field collapses in the primary.

It shouldn't, it is a light-switch and should be insulated to at least 241V 

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