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Norton.rider

Rescuing my WD16H

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Posted (edited)

Big day today in ww2 Norton land! Frame, forks, Oil tank, fuel tank footrests, primary outer, frame plates, tool box, rear mudguard all ready for red oxide priming all in amazing condition as well.

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Edited by Norton.rider

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Latest progress on my Ww2 Norton 16H raf/army bike :) ready for red oxide now on quite a bit of her. Soon be going back together few bits left to get soon. Stuck all the videos in a playlist as well on my Channel. 

Few more bits came as well!

https://youtu.be/RJjSE75-4kk

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My air an adv controls came today to say I'm over the moon with them is an understatement. Last thing I need for the 1" bars are the clutch an brake lever assys, horn buttons an bar end caps.

My race bike should be getting picked up later this week so I can start hunting for the last bits.

Main bits left to find now are lever assys for the 1" bars, end caps, horn button, convoy light, ( weighing up whether to keep the one in the plate or mount the separate type) 

Du42 headlight an blackout.
Then its cables an fuel lines to sort. 
An a set of tyres. 
Need to fix the oil lines as well with new rubber. 
An strip the carb then time her up.

Sure there will be a few more bits along the way :)

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It's finally starting to warm up now so hoping to get some red oxide primer onto the chassis ready for a dry day to spray it.

Can't wait to see her in scc.2 brown.

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Made some more progress today :) ended up removing some brush on primer I'd tried an then ordering some Simoniz Red Oxide Primer which seems really nice to use. 

Got quite a bit done today all the chassis etc, 

Been stripping a few more smaller components an dads been helping me to flat the brush on primer on the tank almost back to the metal ready for the spray on stuff.

Really exciting to think the first nice day we get where next door arnt causing dust clouds I'll be getting to see the scc.2 on a few bits!

Got one nos bar end 1" plug so just gotta find the other one now.

 

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You have the bar end plugs, but have you got the bar end weights that DRs used to improve the handling?   I use standard ones on the Matchless but I know that Norton used longer ones to account for the girder set up.  I think Russels have them.  Give them a ring, and tell them you have a Norton and that you want a long weight.

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You might as well order some 18 thou spark plug gaps while you're on the phone. Ron  

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Now you are being silly, Ron; when I was ordering my tartan paint, they told me that plug gaps are only available in metric sizes these days.  

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Metric what's that? :P

Just got the chassis primary bars, clamps, toolbox all finished an one coat left to do on the tank :)

been filming as i go.

be back using paint stripper again soon on the remainder Joy's haha shes looking like a wd bike again now! 

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Cheers lads :) I need to get 1 more 1" bar end plug an I'll get some of those weights thanks for the heads up that's a good shout on spark plug gaps. I'll give them a phone this week an see what I can get

Today was a massively productive day got all the painting done on the chassis and the tool box and a few other bits including the tank. Shame of it is the tank got a tiny bit of orange peel on it so considering leaving it for a week or so then trying some 2500 grit? Anyone ever done that with Matt paint? 

Colour is SCC.2 Brown (Farrant brown from war paint)

Hope everyone enjoys the video about 8 mins long this one.

 

 

 

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The flattening back with fine paper works on shiny paint where you can then polish it, not sure it can work on mat. I'd simply flat it back with 320 and respray it.  Been there lots of times.Ron

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Posted (edited)

Cheers Ron yep thinking that's what I'm going to do the wind kept picking up a bit by the time I'd got onto the tank so thinking it might have been that. 

Might as well give it a whirl an see what happens first time working with matt paint then if not I'll might have to take it back as you said 320 grit an give it another whirl. 

Edited by Norton.rider

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Posted (edited)

Just been watching a few videos :) gonna use 320 as you say Ron an give it another whirl. Think I might have had my spray a bit to far away was alot closer on the frame an toolbox thinking about it. 

Has anyone got a close up pic of there tank? Just curious how smooth the finish looks :)

Edited by Norton.rider

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It's trial and error mate! I've been doing it for much longer than you've been alive....and I still cock it up. There's a a balance between getting the paint on heavy enough so that it flows out level, but not so heavy that it runs. Some of this mat paint will also dry too shiny if over coated too much. Ron

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maybe a bit late but You might want to consider a semi Matt finish ..Matt can be a challenging finish the paint marks easily and me experience is it  will go glossy on wear areas any way .when I originally got my jeep it had lots of shiny areas from wear so painted it in semi matt... 15 years on it still looks ok..

Jenkinov

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Cheers mate :) gives me a bit of hope does look miles better since its dried over night gone more brown as well. 

Decided to use the oil tank as an experimentation peice time between coats etc an it's a smaller area to try the different sanding methods on well that's the hope haha!

Yep I got semi matt Jenikov Richard Farrant an warpaint both recommended that 15% eggshell I think it is from memory. 

I'd say the grain sort of reminds me of a rd350lc satin exhaust just got a bit of a texture to it. Once the suns properly up I'll get the tank out an taken some pictures.

In between next door creating havoc that is! Piling right next to my workshop nervous is an understatement lol 

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I like the look of matt paint, but was advised against it on many occasions as it marks too easily, also been advised that most matting agents are porous (unless you get a more expensive high quality one) and therefore don't protect the substrate from water ingress and corrosion. 

I painted one of my WD/COs in matt paint, it looked good put as soon as you touched it, it would mark. I had my last bikes powder coated in satin and the finish is hard as nails. Not 100% authentic, ut it should last longer and it's easier to was the dirt off.

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Posted (edited)

Cheers Tom that's handy to know had the tank out this morning an it looks tons better after drying over night so gonna keep it as is I think but experiment on this oil tank :)

how much of the horn was painted on the wd bikes lads?

Edited by Norton.rider

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Posted (edited)

All the horn would be painted, although sometimes I leave the middle dome nut in bare brass......Because it's rebellious. 

My trick with mat paint and after it's all dried hard and the markings and transfers are done. I spray over the whole bike with WD40 and a soft cloth. The WD40 dries off quite quickly but seems to soak in and leave a slight sheen. I repeat the operation after the bike has got shitty and requires a wash. Ron 

 

Edited by Ron

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Posted (edited)

Awesome thanks Ron!

Today's progress :)

Wondering if the name is the previous owners name. As I bought her at a deceased auction sale.

 

 

Edited by Norton.rider

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Posted (edited)

Another big day on the ww2 Norton
All that's left to paint is the wheels, chain guard, an front mudguard stays to do from scratch.

Gotta paint the scc.2 onto the rear mudguard :) an then shes done paint wise !! Oh an paint the tank census number an fit the Norton decals.

Then I can get back on with hunting for a fuel line, control cables, du42 an blackout and start setting the engine up so excited about that. Oh yep need to paint the exhaust as well thinking black. Not sure if they changed it between years? 

Trying to weigh up a convoy light v rear number plate holder with built in light setup.

So happy with how much progress I've made.

https://youtu.be/0nfS2WD5y60

Edited by Norton.rider
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Progress so far lads :) Considering having another go at the petrol tank tomorrow reckon what I did wrong was I tilted the tin to get the top of the tank rather than trying to re position the petrol tank gonna try find a better way of positioning it so I can paint the top and the sides better. 

Did the speedo last night an that seemed a lot smoother. 

 

 

 

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Just be very aware that your nice freshly painted tank is HIGHLY susceptible to attack from petrol spills!  Many nice new finishes have been wrecked this way, decals and all.  I use a matt/satin petrol resistant lacquer from Halfords on the more at risk areas, like around the filler and over decals.

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Posted (edited)

Hi Ferg are you using the sating or the matt one mate? 

Was just having a look while I got some exhaust paint.

Painted 4 sides of one of mums metal plant pots in scc.2... she doesnt know yet dad reckons it's an improvement haha!  So least we have something to test on.

Edited by Norton.rider

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I think its a matt finish.  I actually sprayed it into the lid and applied using a brush to the criticsl areas, once Inhad satisfied myself it was not going to cause more harm thsn good!  Test a bit first.  It does alter the finish, which does not bother me as I favour the "lived in" look, which is just as well due to the standard of MY painting!  I think Ron uses it as well....he may have some words of wisdom and as you know his finishes are really good.  When I last painted my tank, I made the mistake of riding with a full tank over rough ground and the filler cap seal on a Matchless pie crust cap is pretty sketchy, so I had paint lifting up all round the cap after that.

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Cheers mate I'm the same haha no where near up to everyone elses standards as I'm still learning so I'm going for a lived in look to actually just tried something that really worked something I used on metallic paints in the past but it did take the red out a bit of the colour reminds me of being back in litho print haha!

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