Karrier WDS

[Doc]

Dave, 

That's very kind of you. I'll have a measure up later and PM you the dimensions. 

Thanks,

Andy. 

[andypugh]

If time is more important than money, RS components hold a surprisingly large selection of gland packings:

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/pneumatics-hydraulics-power-transmission/power-transmission-gaskets-seals-packings/gland-valve-packings/?sort-by=P_breakPrice1&sort-order=asc&pn=1

 

 

[Doc]

6 hours ago, andypugh said:

If time is more important than money, RS components hold a surprisingly large selection of gland packings:

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/pneumatics-hydraulics-power-transmission/power-transmission-gaskets-seals-packings/gland-valve-packings/?sort-by=P_breakPrice1&sort-order=asc&pn=1

 

 

That's worth knowing. Thank you. It's not on the critical path; I can wait on this occasion. 

Andy 

[Doc]

Another week behind us; time for a quick update. We enjoyed the company of visitors this weekend. Most welcome as we emerge from these strange times. Actually shook hands prior to their departure which was my first physical contact with a fellow human being since before lock-down. That said, I did wash my hands with soap and water afterwards, at my earliest convenience.

So there have been a few tidying up jobs done this week.

Advance and retard linkage and throttle linkage, prepped and painted, ready to go back on. The short link with the brass ends is not original, but did yield two 1/4"BSF single chamfer nuts.

For comparison, as rummaged from the tea chests, freed off and loose fitted to see where things belonged.

One original ball-joint from the advance and retard link between the magneto and the bottom bell crank and a modern replacement. Not identical, but pretty close.

Meanwhile, on the near side, valve chest covers re-fitted and looking magnificent. 

I also took the opportunity to replace the 1/2"UNF bolts and nylock nuts on the near-side engine mounts with something a bit more in keeping.

One at a time...

[Rootes75]

I think that engine looks very good, I think the mix of painted and non painted parts really sets it off.

[Doc]

It seems that the government are encouraging us to spend our way out of the covid - induced financial crisis; I am doing my bit... sheltered safe from harm behind my computer screen! Mask free. These beauties arrived in the post today:

(All of these images are in the same orientation on my computer. Any suggestions how / why this blog editor rotates them gratefully received)

And alongside the motley selection they are to replace:

Don't they look nice!

[Bob Grundy]

A photograph I took of the factory at Huddersfield about 3 years ago, note the date in the stonework.

[andypugh]

5 hours ago, Bob Grundy said:

A photograph I took of the factory at Huddersfield about 3 years ago, note the date in the stonework.

Where is that? (I was brought up in and around Huddersfield, so I think that I know roughly where that is by the style of the buildings. I would guess somewhere in the wierd maze-like one-way system south of the University)

[Bob Grundy]

It is near a casino and a church from what I remember

[andypugh]

Well, I found a casino and a church in the same frame:

https://goo.gl/maps/HRkGCDo3SWyFUX637

But following the road I only found Brook Crompton motors. (important in their own right) 

[79x100]

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@53.640453,-1.789559,3a,75y,335.22h,95.44t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sK_X-xiTZXXGx1z0H0OMCRw!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo2.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DK_X-xiTZXXGx1z0H0OMCRw%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D295.32477%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i13312!8i6656

[andypugh]

16 minutes ago, 79x100 said:

https://goo.gl/maps/Bxe6yBxTTreE7k6s5

Thanks, I will have a look next time I pass that way. I have a bit of an interest in Karrier as my dad worked for David Browns for 50 years and I think that they made their gearboxes. 

Talking of gears, if you need any then it might be worth talking to the company across the road, in case they know about Karrier and where they were made. 

[Doc]

Seems I might have to take a trip to Huddersfield and do some exploring when things are back to normal. Thanks for sharing the photograph and map locations.

Shed roof repairs have taken up a lot of time this week, however I've still managed to get a few jobs done. As I sit down with a cuppa, I'll share some of these.

Earlier in the week I spoke to an ever-so-helpful lady at Hayley Bearings about vee belts. She informed me that B51 was a 17 mm wide belt, 51 inches long. Yes they had some in stock, but only endless belts, not link belt. I had read that the Karrier was originally fitted with a link belt, possibly of the Whittle type with alternate leather and steel links. Onto our favourite online auction site, and new unused B - profile Brammer link belting was available; two metres arrived a few days after placing the order.

Fan parts have been dismantled, cleaned and repainted. The water pipe between the pump and the front of the cylinders and the governor assembly have received similar treatment, as has the starting dog and fan drive pulley.

Incidentally, if anyone else finds themselves having to dismantle a Tylor JB4 engine, the large bolt in the end of the crankshaft is Right Hand threaded.

This job would have been easier had I decided to tackle it before I re-fitted the radiator. Live and learn.

Guide studs re-fitted

Followed by the belt tensioner

And the spring

Followed by the fan unit. The spring adjustment and its lock nut are just visible below the greaser on the side of the bracket.

Fan belt fitted. You need strong thumbs to join up Brammer belts. Incidentally, the link pitch is 7/8" which does not "go" into 51. 51 x 8/7 = 58.3 Next number of links would have been 59, which to my eye is not just odd, but prime into the bargain. I used 60 links and it looks fine.

Governor housing freshened up. I need to find a replacement Rotherhams oiler with the flip top intact.

And the governor link arm. I need to make the rod connecting from this to the throttle butterfly, but need to consult the spare parts list to get this right.

 

[8_10 Brass Cleaner]

What size thread is the Rotherhams?

[Doc]

9 hours ago, 8_10 Brass Cleaner said:

What size thread is the Rotherhams?

Thread is 1/2" Whit. 1"AF.

Thanks, Andy

 

[8_10 Brass Cleaner]

I'll see what I have, the thread is unusual

[Doc]

Rightly or wrongly, after twenty weeks away, I took the decision to return to Bristol. I will have plenty to do taming the wilderness that was once my back garden, but lorry work will be on hold for a while. So I'll share the last few jobs undertaken immediately prior to my departure with occasional posts of things that didn't quite make it to the blog at the time. 

First up, big thanks to Jon for sending me a box of goodies, including a ferrule to repair the exhaust pipe. Using a Jubilee clip as a guide, I first cut the rotten end off then drove in the ferrule until the shoulder came up against the end of the pipe. 

Next step was to weld the two parts together (thanks, Gerald).

Followed by a bit of fettling and a dab of  paint (most of which will be burned off when the new flange is silver-soldered on).

Also in the box were a few bits and pieces from my toolbox at work; 1/8" BSP taps and dies along with a cunning little adapter I made for my die stock. There's a set of bushes in a range of diameters to keep the die running true over a long distance.

I've had 3/8" heavy wall steel tube (the nearest one can get to 1/8" pipe in the UK) and a selection of malleable iron fittings  in stock for a while now. The arrival of this tooling allowed me to make a start on the acetylene pipework for the headlights.

The tube cutter does a neat job but is inclined to raise a burr on the end of the tube. This needed to be ground off before attempting to cut the thread.

That's the first thread cut. (perhaps if my workbench wasn't such a mess the auto-focus might have selected the item of interest!)

The completed front section that sits under the radiator bottom tank and feeds the headlights. There's a long length from the Tee in the right-hand leg that connects to the acetylene generator. I'm waiting until the bulkhead is in place before cutting this piece to length.

The drain tap is shown in the parts list. Presumably there's some moisture carry-over / condensation when preparing acetylene from calcium carbide. I still need to make the hose barbs and source some rubber tubing to connect to the lamps. 

Into the paint shop and a coat of red oxide primer. That should keep the rust at bay until I get back.

 

[Doc]

If one day was much the same as another during lock-down in rural East Anglia, it's fair to say not much has changed upon my return to the big city save for my being unable to nip into the workshop to tinker with the Karrier. Basically, if it's a dry day I'm attending to the previous 4 months of neglect in the garden, if it's a wet day my efforts are expended indoors where I wasn't exactly houseproud before I left.

Here's the first of an occasional series of posts filling in some of the gaps that didn't make it at the time, in this case May 2020.

The Tylor engine fitted to the Karrier is rated at 50 HP at 1000 rpm. The 5 inch bore x 6 inch stroke engine is a bit of a lump, fortunately the makers fitted a half compression device to aid cranking. Through the action of a lever on the outside of the timing case the camshaft can be translated length-ways bringing into action a second set of cams that hold the exhaust valves open, releasing some of the charge.

After 40 odd years of standing it was not clear whether this was working or if some part of the mechanism was stuck. While the radiator was out of the way I took the opportunity to investigate.

First to be removed - the retaining bolt and washer.

Followed by the starting dog

the fan pulley

This distance piece

Followed by the timing cover.

and the oil thrower.

The steel pin on the camshaft axis was sliding freely - a good start.

With the timing case removed, I hastily replaced all the loose bits back on the end of the crank-shaft, lest they get knocked over. Having removed the split pin and castle nut from the end of the camshaft I fashioned a rudimentary puller from steel plate.

Very little effort was required to persuade the timing gear to move.

Revealing this large spring.

And the drive dog to the cross shaft gear behind. These were also removed inspected and replaced. Oily hands precluded photography, so I will describe. The gear that drives the cross shaft "magneto spiral" in Tylor nomenclature rotates freely on the outer surface of the front camshaft bearing. The part keyed to the camshaft with the dogs across the front face engages with a similar feature milled across the back face of the timing gear. These two parts butt up hard against each other and a shoulder on the end of the camshaft. There are also dogs projecting to the rear that engage with the "magneto spiral". The large coil spring is positioned between the two gears. Nothing appeared out of order so everything was reassembled. In a moment of clarity I realised that the camshaft would only move when the auxiliary cams were not in line with the tappets. Setting the crank to top dead centre (based on timing marks on the flywheel rim) and a stout pull on the lever and the camshaft moved as required. Turning the engine via the crank handle the camshaft returned against the internal spring. So all appears to be working as it should.

If that's still a little hazy, I've included the appropriate illustration from my photocopy spare parts book along with drawings of the Tylor engine from"The Automobile Engineer"

 

[Doc]

On ‎5‎/‎26‎/‎2020 at 4:36 PM, andypugh said:

Ben found a source in India:

 

 

I'll be prepared to wager Ben's Grover washers didn't arrive packaged like this:

[Le Prof]

This Gentleman had a few Grover Washers to spare... (-:

Best Regards,

Adrian

[mammoth]

Those look like ordinary common garden variety spring washers to me

[David Herbert]

Indeed ! Grover washers are heavier and have a grove in the outside edge.

David

[8_10 Brass Cleaner]

On 7/27/2020 at 7:54 AM, Doc said:

Thread is 1/2" Whit. 1"AF.

Thanks, Andy

 

sorry for the delay, I forget to look every time I go to the shed (busy with this!)

Amongst the treasure:

Needs the thread doctoring

[Doc]

Work - life balance is still all out of kilter but I'm managing to get a few odd jobs done once again. I ordered some mild steel blanks to make new exhaust flanges. When these arrived Jon volunteered to do the machining. Well, what could I say, other than "thanks". 

The thin flanges bolt onto the silencer end plates (with the bolt heads on the inside). The shouldered flanges are brazed onto the exhaust pipe. The flange pairs are retained with nuts and spring washers. 

Somewhere down the line a communication mix-up resulted in the shouldered flanges getting 3/8"bsf threaded holes and the mating flanges clearance holes. 

I considered putting them all in a bag and giving them a good shake, see if that would solve the problem. With no Debbie McGee on hand, I settled on a more sensible approach:

Fortunately the "extra" holes will not be visible. 

[Citroman]

On this citroen they did the trick too but couldn't hide it and ended up with 8 wheel nuts. 😆

Edited September 24, 2020 by Citroman