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MARTIN CROSS

Land Rover Bowman trials 77 KF 58

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I have just bought a 90 that was involved in the trials And wondered if anyone knows more than is on the Net or has any pics.

I would also like to get aerials and wing boxes.

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ISTR that Racal owned approx. 6  qty.  90" XD Wolf for trials & they never were the property of the MOD.   IIRC they were sold off abt. 2005.

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This is all I have so far.

Vehicle Service History
RIV Date
Unit
13-Oct-1987
251 (UK OPS) SIG SQN
15-Apr-1994
9 TLR RLC LAD REME
09-Feb-1995
BOWMAN TRIALS
11-Oct-1995
BOWMAN MILITARY TEAM
26-Jun-1997
HQ CTG QM(T)
15-Mar-1999
WAR SPT UNIT & GAR
03-Oct-2001
HQ CTG BG
17-Mar-2004
3SCOTS
31-Jul-2005
HQ CTG BG
07-Feb-2008
RTR
22-Mar-2010
TFSU (UK)
06-Jul-2011
WITHAM (SPECIALIST VEHICLES) LTD
Date Not Recorded
UNKNOWN

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21 hours ago, MARTIN CROSS said:

I have just bought a 90 that was involved in the trials And wondered if anyone knows more than is on the Net or has any pics.

I would also like to get aerials and wing boxes.

Undoubtedly your truck has been involved with Bowman, however as I see it - it is a relatively early 90" - therefore Clansman radio equipment would be more 'in-period' and easier / £ cheaper to obtain.  Wing boxes are more costly than several years ago but far from unobtainium.  Often they used to be sold complete with all items, now even the flex. mounts for the TUAAM are removed - to just a bare box !   The antenna base elements (BALUN ring-thing) can differ in detail nomenclature plating and some can have no makers plates (will be Racal but probably intended for export ?  I was reliably informed ).   The 'base antenna mounts'  (flexible aerial support) - over about 20 years production , there were several versions , generally No.31 with different Mk.  Most of the detail difference is the design of the collet clamping - this is something you should consider if you are time-line rivet counter..

 

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Thanks for the info.

As it has been converted  to 12v I'm re wiring  the lights with relays and a direct feed.

The alternator is there but no belt or cable.One battery is under tell seat but unclear  where the other one went.

In the back is a rack and two large terminals and a few leads.

Two wing mounts and aerial mounts on side and various holes etc in hard top.

Also got some sound proofing! 

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Martin it wouldn't have been converted to 12v as it was already 12v.

The 24v charging system was only to the radio batteries & was electrically separate from the 12v system. Hence it was designated 12/24 Volt Hard Top RHD. Being 12/24v was a jolly good idea unlike Wolf derivatives that are entirely 24v.

Yours was built under Contract No. 22A/340 of which there were 258 starting 76 KF 14 - 78 KF 18 built in the Fiscal Year 1986-1987

Painted NATO Green, interestingly the contract included 22 in Bronze Green that were designated "Civilian" & all but 11 were given military registrations.

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The data plate says 24v and I had assumed the wiring was the issue as it is so thin compared to my car.

There is a 1v+ drop from the battery to the bulb holder.

I am going to use the old connections to switch relays with much thicker wire and better bulbs.

I will also look out for Clansman gear to go on the wings.

Thank you.

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Martin it is worth looking for Supplementary Parts Catalogue RTC9941 this covers all the variants in Contract No.22A/340.

It covers the Military Land Rover 90 2 1/2 Diesel 12v & 12/24 volt. This is not a military parts book so there are no NSNs just Land Rover part numbers. I think you will enjoy it as it has the layout of the FFR fittings in the rear & on the wings.

I used to have a 90 in this contract, one thing I would suggest is to rewire the supply to the map reading light through the ignition switch. It is so easy for the light to get knocked on & in daylight not realise this so you end up with a flat battery.

You say you have a 1v drop from the battery to the bulb holder, which bulb holder do you mean & is this when current is being drawn?

Have you got a photo of the data plate?

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Good idea on map light as previous owner had left it on from when I saw it.

The volt drop is to the bulb holder with light unplugged on that side.

Interestingly the main beams are OK. It's just the dips which are poor. I'm wondering if the main light switch may be the problem.

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So the 1v drop is on the headlight bulb holder that has no bulb., but is the bulb on the corresponding fitting on the other side illuminated? If it is, it is going to take the edge off the at rest voltage of the battery. Measure the voltage drop with the engine running, I suspect you won't see a drop.

When measuring this voltage drop from where are you getting the negative connection? On the wing, an earth lead in the wing, the chassis or long lead back to the battery negative or the earth strap of the negative lead?

Be suspicious of all earth connections, battery to chassis, chassis to wing or earth leads to lights & associated common earth junctions & links.

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I measured from bulb holder and earth on body.

With engine running mains are both fine and dips are dimmer. Noticeably more Yellow but the same so I suspect it's a fault in the feed side assuming both filaments share the same earth.

I may try with a meter to see where the drop occurs in the circuit.

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Might be worth measuring from the bulb holder but with the negative meter lead to a wire directly on the battery negative & see if you get the same result.

Also check the state of the fuses, fuse holder & blade connectors into fuse holders for the dip circuitry.

RHS dip feed is Blue/Black to fuse

LHS dip feed is Blue/Pink to fuse

The live side of each fuse join together to Blue/Red, check the jumper lead & its blade connectors.

To rule out an earthing issue, would be to temporarily run a stout lead from the bulb holder earth terminal to battery negative.

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Great ideas thank you.

Will just wait until it stops raining.

The gear lever feels like stirring a Christmas  pudding so that needs sorting too.

I suspect there might be a rubber that needs changing as it's only done 60,000m.

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The data plate says 12/24v FFR but the wiring is very thin and the fuses for the lights are 15A rather than the 8A specified. I'm getting about 12.5v at the battery but 11 is at the fuses. I will pop in relas which will sort the issue.

Thanks for the help.

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The fuses are probably correct!

In 90/110s the specified fuse rating relates to the holding current not the blow rating that most of us are used to. Blow rating is about double the holding rating.

 

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Yes the fuse rating business was rather strange & caused a lot of confusion in service.

This was from a guide was published in April 1995.

 

90-110 Fuse rating.jpg

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Thanks for that.

First lot of wiring stuff just arrived.

Each filament will have its own relay with direct separate  fused feed from better. Or from starter if I can access there. 

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Seems you've got a lot of rewiring to do,  shame it can't be made to work as originally intended.

My 90 made under the same contract didn't have these lighting issues. Is there not some easier workaround perhaps with more modern lighting? Or are you sure the bulb units fitted are to the original spec?

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I don't know what spec the bulbs are and I don't have the time or inclination to be messing about as I need to use it but cannot with the lights as they are.

If I do get a 'minute' I will check out more but the low voltage at the fuses suggests a feed isue so I'm hoping to get a wiring diagram this afternoon. 

I really appreciate  your assistance  and I would like it to work as it should but sometimes  it is easier to replace. I did the same on my car (a Rover too) and the lights are infinitely better. Shame LED lights illegal on it.

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Let me know how you get on with a circuit diagram & that it is specific to your vehicle. If not let me know & can dig one out.

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Is your map reading lamp of intended  MOD Defender type  ?   like this  :-

https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=660

,  very bog-std. & boring.

I always considered these lamps.  manuf. by Hella  - quite good , and in fact superior to what I have used in Series  (because they have a better military appearance) , so I purchased a batch , ISTR in Hella packaging.   The Land Rover boxed ones seem quite expensive now.

---------------------

https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/land-rover/military-variants/interior/map-reading-light-prc3832.html

John Richards states this lamp is EARLY Defender type - on 'time-line' I don't know when EARLY ended - Wolf  ?

Edited by ruxy

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I don't know what spec the bulbs are and I don't have the time or inclination to be messing about as I need to use it but cannot with the lights as they are.

If I do get a 'minute' I will check out more but the low voltage at the fuses suggests a feed isue so I'm hoping to get a wiring diagram this afternoon. 

I really appreciate  your assistance  and I would like it to work as it should but sometimes  it is easier to replace. I did the same on my car (a Rover too) and the lights are infinitely better. Shame LED lights illegal on it.

Now found originals only 40W so newer bulbs take far more currenT. 

Have borrowed  a handbook but no wiring diagram so would greatly  appreciate  a copy please.

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Have a look at this lot at Smithies

http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/

The 12 volt side is more or less civvy Basic that you will find in a Haynes Diesel.

You can find some  AESP by searcing using FOI (requests)  Army Equipment Support Publications.   You may not find your exact Contract No. but one near does.   For Supplementary Catalogue(s) you can find but no not so easy on-line. Most had a Matrix at front - so you find your Contract No. in column , read across for supplementary "Bolt-on" packages that Solihull fitted.   Generally most of 24 volt is standard  (genny etc.)  , obviously different loom/harness sometimes  90" / 110"

-------

One,  I sometimes use is  Wolf   -   FOI   2016/00702-AESP2320

 

 

Edited by ruxy
spelin

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