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2ndArmourMad

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  • 3 months later...

My GPW has no red primer, it has that yellow/green chromate primer and the Willy’s type chassis has a black primer with an overspray of green. Not found a trace of red oxide yet which is a pain. I hoped to paint in the same format but I don’t think I can replicate the yellow/green chromate primer.

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On 10/12/2019 at 1:21 PM, Chris Hall said:

My GPW has no red primer, it has that yellow/green chromate primer and the Willy’s type chassis has a black primer with an overspray of green. Not found a trace of red oxide yet which is a pain. I hoped to paint in the same format but I don’t think I can replicate the yellow/green chromate primer.


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Edited by 2ndArmourMad
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1 hour ago, Chris Hall said:

My GPW has no red primer, it has that yellow/green chromate primer and the Willy’s type chassis has a black primer with an overspray of green. Not found a trace of red oxide yet which is a pain. I hoped to paint in the same format but I don’t think I can replicate the yellow/green chromate primer.

How close is this paint? 

http://acecoatingssouth.co.uk/en/home/34-two-pack-zinc-tertroxy-chromate-etch-base.html

Making green zinc chromate:-

Mixing with black gave greener tones, which, depending on the amount of black added could run from apple greens to medium olive greens.

Full article here:-

http://federalstandard595.com/history-zinc-chromate/

 

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17 hours ago, MatchFuzee said:

How close is this paint? 

http://acecoatingssouth.co.uk/en/home/34-two-pack-zinc-tertroxy-chromate-etch-base.html

Making green zinc chromate:-

Mixing with black gave greener tones, which, depending on the amount of black added could run from apple greens to medium olive greens.

Full article here:-

http://federalstandard595.com/history-zinc-chromate/

 

Thanks, I’ll take a look at that paint, 2 pack is my preferred paint so could work well and in keeping with the paint process applied to my GPW.

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  • 6 months later...
On 4/21/2020 at 10:41 AM, Chris Hall said:

Is the bumper original? Even battered there’s not many around.

Ive been putting some work in to my GPW body these last few weeks, I appear to have less and less to work with once the rot has been cut out!

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Edited by 2ndArmourMad
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Are you fitting false rivets to the battery tray and engine mounts? There’s a chap in the USA (EBay) that does good threaded rivets, the head is the correct form and serrations on the underside of the head to lock in to the hole. You then do up the nut on the other end like a bolt. When I did mine, as the nut went tight, I would tap the head with a hammer and I’d get a few more turns. Eventually when it’s as tight as it can be, the nut shears off leaving a rivet tail behind. I intend to mig weld the top of the river tail and make good.

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I’ve had to make a new cross member/rear bumper for mine. I wanted to fit a JMP made one but they were out of stock. I bought a universal jeep supplies item but it was made from much thinner gauge steel and was about 3/4 inch to narrow than the original. So I then ended up buying a MDJ item and that was quite badly made and just wouldn’t fit without major cutting and it was to deep leaving a 1/4” gap at the top between rails and top of cross member. I ended up making my own from box section of the correct gauge steel. I cut it across the box section to get 2 L shaped lengths. I then cut in the dip where the towing pintle fits and then welded them together along the length on both sides. Ground down both side welds and temp bolted in place. When I’ve got the body finished I’ll fit the body and drill the mounting holes. I think the work was worth it as it looks 99% original. The only thing it could really do with is some dents to match it in.

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