bigduke6 Posted June 14, 2019 Share Posted June 14, 2019 Whilst looking for a Clutch drive /spider for a WD/C, I never had much success and started out making one although the blank was machined ready, I was making a cutting tool to cut the splines but my machines were busy with something else at the time. Whilst in Normandy last week it was suggested I visit Owens in Wrexham, (Thanks to Roy and Keith) I went today on the off chance and I picked up these below, although the one with the spider in is for the CO, the other which has no spider is the correct fit for the shaft for my gearbox, but is a direct drive rather than a crush drive, just wonder if it would make much difference if I fitted this ?? Any thoughts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 Duke I think the top one with the smaller spline is what was fitted to the 250 models (D,S,SF etc) and is exactly what I originally fitted to my experimental DC which is a 350. (first 3 pix) I soon realized that it should have had the bigger cush drive clutch, (4th pic) and like you went on the hunt for the spider with the small spline. I was also thinking of getting one made but fortunately an old RE bloke had one which he donated. I wonder if you would actually notice a difference without the cush? For instance, the special I built, which is a effectively a BSA M20 with a much more powerful Indian 741 engine fitted has no cush ( nore dose an Indian 741 in it's natural form,) and I can't say I notice any difference. Likewise when my M20 first came to me 30 odd years ago, a previous owner had locked the cush drive and I rode it without knowing for a while. Not the end of the earth to give it a try and swap it at a later date. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 (edited) Thanks Ron, Really appreciate it, I'll give it a whirl and see what its like, its certainly better than what was in there, on the subject of clutch's etc can these be run dry with the right plates? Edited June 15, 2019 by bigduke6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 It's not so much about the plates, it's more about lubrication and cooling the chain and oiling the clutch bearing. Having said that, I've run my special dry for 1000's of miles, which is a dry clutch anyway, But I have a special chain and air cooling and spray chain lube. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 Understand that Ron, I've got an idea regarding the chain lube etc, The dry clutch was to do with a thread regarding a Triumph or Norton ? someone had changed it to a dry clutch or mentions a dry clutch conversion, just wondered if this is common ? Good news........ I picked up the M20 today, its all there (I think) long day 12 hour round trip, all I've done in the last few weeks is stick Diesel in the Berlingo...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 The old cork plates seemed to need oil, but the modern Surflex plates that are supplied these days for most bikes will work dry. Good luck with the M20.....My favourite old plodders! I've just built a 600cc engine in this old bone for a friend. It started first kick, only to find that the cush drive spring is wrong or knackered. Kicking myself now for not trying it before I buttoned up the blooming primary case.😡 Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigduke6 Posted June 16, 2019 Author Share Posted June 16, 2019 Does seem to be favourite to most......... explains the price tag, I'll post some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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