Jump to content
  • 0
SirLanceUK

CVRT Equilibrator what/ how/ help

Question

As a newbie to military vehicles, and a newbie CVRT Spartan owner I have a million and one questions normally as I am taking something apart and reliase I have little idea what I am doing :)

I am awaiting manuals as we speak

I noticed the Equilibrator on the drivers hatch had a broken mount so removed the Equilibrator  and found it to be completly stuck. I have now freed it up but it does not do anything other than just moving freely in and out. Looking thorugh various sites trying to source a replacement, I released not only could I not find one, I didn't understand how it actually works and the more I read the more confused I got.

I understand it is there to help with the movement of the drivers hatch, to make it easier to open and close and not feel like a ton weight. So the question is, it is effectivly a gas strut? is it filled with "fluid"? Is it filled with air and the resistance to the air movement helps with counter acting the weight? what is the internal contruction? can I take a very large hammer to it and take it apart to replace anything inside that has perished?  Does anyone know where I can find on?

So far you kind people have been very helpful with my questions I  am hopeing it carries on :)

 

 

 

GetAttachmentThumbnail-1 (4).jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Recommended Posts

  • 0

In one way - yes , because kero is used as the carrier for graphite , MoS2 + thin oil.   Kano Kroil is good stuff but expensive  ,   I use it if DoubleTT fails.  Probably DERV is just as good as TT  on its own, (seems more oil).

However , neat kero  28 sec.   - try what I suggest ,  I would say your blued steel Belleville washers - may even rust tarnish.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I'm told that acetone is a very good carrier for the light oil of your choice to make an excellent  penetrating oil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
4 hours ago, gordonb said:

I'm told that acetone is a very good carrier for the light oil of your choice to make an excellent  penetrating oil.

Yes,  I understand a common ingredient of pentrant (mobile) fluids,  my understanding is that it is the  'searcher'  component as too light to be a carrier.    I have at times used  NDT  aerosal dye penetrant to check the entry possibilities.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

This is still a work in progress, I have been unable to shift the screw top, despite soaking, bashing and heating.

I have sent the diagrams round to a few people to see if they have bigger hammers or further ideas.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
1 hour ago, Terra1936 said:

I still cannot locate one for the one I am missing! 

Unfortunately I can’t find one either. I do keep looking though. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

A further update, I have sent the Equilibrator to a friend (he is now) who has his own fabrication company he has the tools to heat the body and large hammers to do hopefully do the job. I have written to 2 companies on the washers but no reply yet....

Still trying

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I would have thought that the Belleville washers have just rusted solid.  Each one only moves a small amount.  I would not expect you to need new washers, just clean up the old ones.

 

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I've read through your attempts to unscrew the end cap of the equilibrator, item 48 in the parts diagram, and I don't see anywhere where you specifically heat the bugger up to red hot with an oxy-acetylene torch. That's what it needs! 

And by the "bugger", I mean the flat face of the end cap and the region of the cylinder with the internal threads. 

I don't know the diameter of the cylinder but you may need to buy or borrow a crescent wrench, aka adjustable spanner, large enough to fit the flats. And it must fit snugly!

Soaking in the huge variety of penetrants always suggested for this kind of problem doesn't hold a candle to heat. 

The Belleville washers will not suffer from this heating as the thermal conductivity across an interface is very poor, especially if rust is involved. 

Malcolm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
On 5/31/2020 at 5:59 AM, sexton said:

I've read through your attempts to unscrew the end cap of the equilibrator, item 48 in the parts diagram, and I don't see anywhere where you specifically heat the bugger up to red hot with an oxy-acetylene torch. That's what it needs! 

And by the "bugger", I mean the flat face of the end cap and the region of the cylinder with the internal threads. 

I don't know the diameter of the cylinder but you may need to buy or borrow a crescent wrench, aka adjustable spanner, large enough to fit the flats. And it must fit snugly!

Soaking in the huge variety of penetrants always suggested for this kind of problem doesn't hold a candle to heat. 

The Belleville washers will not suffer from this heating as the thermal conductivity across an interface is very poor, especially if rust is involved. 

Malcolm

Hi Malcolm,

I did try heat but couldn’t generate enough. I have a friend who has the bigger hammer, torch and when he gets 5 minutes he has s going to apply his larger toys... I will feedback when he is successful 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...