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SirLanceUK

CVRT Equilibrator what/ how/ help

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As a newbie to military vehicles, and a newbie CVRT Spartan owner I have a million and one questions normally as I am taking something apart and reliase I have little idea what I am doing :)

I am awaiting manuals as we speak

I noticed the Equilibrator on the drivers hatch had a broken mount so removed the Equilibrator  and found it to be completly stuck. I have now freed it up but it does not do anything other than just moving freely in and out. Looking thorugh various sites trying to source a replacement, I released not only could I not find one, I didn't understand how it actually works and the more I read the more confused I got.

I understand it is there to help with the movement of the drivers hatch, to make it easier to open and close and not feel like a ton weight. So the question is, it is effectivly a gas strut? is it filled with "fluid"? Is it filled with air and the resistance to the air movement helps with counter acting the weight? what is the internal contruction? can I take a very large hammer to it and take it apart to replace anything inside that has perished?  Does anyone know where I can find on?

So far you kind people have been very helpful with my questions I  am hopeing it carries on :)

 

 

 

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There is a stack of domed Belleville washers inside which creates the spring.

You can disassemble it and try putting it back together, you might find some broken inside. I’ve rebuilt a few of them.

Chris

 

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Hi Chris,

Thanks for the parts breakdown, I do have that :) , thank god for e-bay, and now I know I can take it apart I will give it ago to see whats inside 😀

I will update the topic with what happens so others will know :)

 

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I have tried to take the big hammer to this and failed. I have applied heat and brute strength and still nothing. I am going to contact a local Tank specialist see if they can help, they may have a bigger hammer :)

On the plus side I have been unseizing things left right and center. Some parts I need fabricating as they have been removed and no one seems to have any and the roof doors finally opened, more difficulty in closing them, I hope the movement will "free" them even more :)

Minus the electrics are not working as they should, Brake lights, front side lights and dipped headlights all don't work... still how boring if everything was working, I would have to be out driving it :)

 

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Soak the Equilibrator in Kerro or Parafin for a week or so. Act's like a penetrating fluid & should help free up

What you need to remove.

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Which parts are you looking for?

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2 hours ago, ferretfixer said:

Soak the Equilibrator in Kerro or Parafin for a week or so. Act's like a penetrating fluid & should help free up

What you need to remove.

the Equilibrator has a cover which I am told because it has flats onthe body should screw off. I and trying to take it apart as it does not seem to do anything and it takes no effort, since I unsiezed it, to push the piston in and out.

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Still cant move it. I have now soaked it in parafin for 8 days, and applied heat but still seem unabe to undo this beast. I have managed to break one if my vices with the effort i put in. I did talk to an ex driver who said he remembered the hatches he had were about the same effort to move so with that in mind i am putting on a very big back burner.

 

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Leave it to soak in Parafin as long as you are going to have it 'On the Back Buner'.

It wont hurt it at all, but can only serve to work it's way into the threads.

I have done similar with items not on a high priority list. That were 'stubborn'!....

They ALL freed off eventually! ;) 

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43 minutes ago, ferretfixer said:

Leave it to soak in Parafin as long as you are going to have it 'On the Back Buner'.

It wont hurt it at all, but can only serve to work it's way into the threads.

I have done similar with items not on a high priority list. That were 'stubborn'!....

They ALL freed off eventually! ;) 

It is returning to the parafin this morning till I need the parafin to flush the tank :) which is another back burner job. Well until the end of the month. :)

 

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It might also be worth periodically, tapping all round the periphery of the top screwed section. Obviously with a BRASS or LEAD Hammer. So you dont damage the surface & edge!

This will help loosen the rust & aid the Parafin running around & along the thread's! ;) 

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18 hours ago, SirLanceUK said:

I am trying this now, and using a rubber hammer. I will let you know how I get on

NO! You NEED the shock factor Mate! Lead or Lead shot filled Rubber Hammer. Or Preferably Brass / softer that steel Hammer! The softer metal wont damage / deform the edge. 

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Yes, if you use just a rubber hammer. You will be at it for the next year, & make NO difference at all!.... 😳

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Hi, no it lays in un-conquered on my workbench. I have tried all sorts. My next step is heat the part using oxyacetylene. So far this is only part not to brake, apart from the cupola which is well stuck

Lance

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I am watching your progress as I have similar issue.  I want to find a replacement used or new and am still looking.  The unit on my drivers hatch is missing.  

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Posted (edited)

Mine was Stuck and when they wrenched it open they did it so hard they broke off the bottom set of mounting rings, so not only do I have to sort out the equilibrator I have to get a welder out to remake the mounting rings.

 

Edited by SirLanceUK
learn to type

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Hi.

no I have not sorted it. At the moment it is soaking in a bucket of paraffin and automatic transmission fluid. Every couple of days I take it out, bash it a bit and try and unscrew it .

I do keep looking out for a replacement but so far no luck. I have to get the bracket rewelded on the deck and while I have had  3 people tell me they can do it, not one has been brave enough to do it.. so the the whole thing is on the back burner

chhers Lance

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You will find that such as WD40 magic is basically kerosene with pale spindle oil added.  I understand paraffin is just a more refined kerosene with a dye added.     However - try this ,  place some bright mild steel nails (better still some old worn bearings) in a jar of kerosene to soak overnight , remove them and you will find them rust tarnished within hours - this is because kero is hygroscopic .    Diesel  , very near on the scale of light-ends is probably better at penetrating, and a good anti-rust.

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43 minutes ago, ruxy said:

You will find that such as WD40 magic is basically kerosene with pale spindle oil added.  I understand paraffin is just a more refined kerosene with a dye added.     However - try this ,  place some bright mild steel nails (better still some old worn bearings) in a jar of kerosene to soak overnight , remove them and you will find them rust tarnished within hours - this is because kero is hygroscopic .    Diesel  , very near on the scale of light-ends is probably better at penetrating, and a good anti-rust.

Does that mean I have done the right thing :)

Lance

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