Jump to content
flyingfleasteve

1940 Triumph 3SW Restoration

Recommended Posts

Hi All.

I have been following this site closely and I have been reading about the various Triumph projects and restorations taking place. It's somewhat inspired me, with this in mind I thought I would share the rebuild of my own 1940 Triumph 3SW.

I have owned the bike for approximately 2 years and when purchased it was a non runner. With the 75th D-Day anniversary approaching I thought it would be fitting to restore it to its former glory and take it to France this year.

Although the bike,when purchased, had a large number of 'non original' parts fitted I was drawn to it because both the engine and frame numbers appear to be the same original pairing when it left the factory. 

To add, this particular machine was part of contract number C6128 which is also nicely stamped on the engine casing and as I understand one of the last to come out of the Coventry factory before it was bombed in November 1940.

IMG_2522.JPG

IMG_2523.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have over the last year, in amongst other projects, prioritised getting the bike running, the eagle eyed amongst you will note the carburettor it came with was incorrect, hence there was a bit of a delay, until an original one could be sourced.

During this period I took the opportunity to remove some of the later 'additions' and replace with more period ones. I.e the rear mudguard stays, exhaust, silencer, DU42 headlamp, 4 pos. switch, CZ27 ammeter  and so on.

IMG_2865.JPG

IMG_2882.JPG

IMG_2885.JPG

IMG_3050.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now running, I decided to give the bike a full strip down in preparation for paint. This, as always, highlighted a selection of issues.

Firstly the petrol tank has some major leaks and poor repair jobs.

Secondly the two main shaft bushes, within the gear box, have completely failed. Upon inspection there are also signs of corrosion, therefore a full rebuild is now underway

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you get it from Brian Tillin ?, I’ve just bought one off him with his front brake rod kit, good luck sourcing the correct handle bar levers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Graham, yes the bars came from Brian, I am very pleased with them. I was fortunate enough to have a headlamp tucked away as well as 1” bar levers, you are right these solid style 1” levers arnt the easiest to find....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a heads up chaps. The exhaust pipe clamp at the cylinder on Triumphs is a finned clamp.  I realized ages ago that I'd missed it on my own 3SW. It's quite a generic type and I bought one from Armour's in readiness to blast and paint black sometime. Ron

 

DSCF1329.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did wonder, as I’d seen the finned one on your 3HW, I just thought it was a later mod.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
54 minutes ago, flyingfleasteve said:

The exhaust was purchased unfinished, I then sprayed it in a good quality dull silver heat proof paint....

IMG_2796.JPG

Steve,

Which make of paint ?.

Graham.

Edited by HotBed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ron, 

when you painted your 3HW exhaust, how many coats did you apply ........ 6 ?.

Graham

Edited by HotBed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, HotBed said:

I did wonder, as I’d seen the finned one on your 3HW, I just thought it was a later mod.

It's the same finned clamp on all three WD models and some of the pre-war models.# E1270.  Ron

Edited by Ron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, HotBed said:

Ron, 

when you painted your 3HW exhaust, how many coats did you apply ........ 6 ?.

Graham

3 or 4 I guess. I'm probably guilty of not following the instructions to the letter by over coating too heavily........I just can't help myself....But it seems to work ok. There's less heat involved with an OHV.

I've only done about 40 miles on my 5SW so far, so we'll see how it fairs with some decent mileage. It's bound to tarnish around the first bend and if it gets too bad it's only a total of about half and hour to remove and replace the system .....plus rubbing down and drying time in between.  Ron

Edited by Ron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers for the heads up Ron, funnily enough I do have a finned exhaust clamp, it was fitted originally, but at the time I was unsure whether it was original or not, I best dig it out!

Graham I will check the paint brand and let you know!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So some of the missing parts I have managed to source and purchase are now being delivered thick and fast.

This weeks delivery includes a gasket set and more excitingly (I know, sad) an early clamp type MCR1 regulator as found on both the Triumph 3SW / 3HW etc.. and the Norton 16H.

The lovely thing about this Regulator is it retains inside the cap, orginal military paint, but also stamped above 'FADE' is 'Lead Acid',which I am led to believe is an early 39/40 item.

A lot of work to do on it but I think it will be a nice little addition when restored!

IMG_3299.JPG

IMG_3300.JPG

IMG_3297.JPG

IMG_3298.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can these regulators be restored ?.

 

Edited by HotBed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you are right about the regulator Steve. 'Lead Acid' was stamped on the early war regulators to distinguish them from the previous Ni-Fe (Nickel Iron) type. As time passed and everything was fitted with lead acid batteries, the stamping was dropped.

The nice thing these days is, if it doesn't work, you can gut it and fit a modern solid state regulator inside and solder the wires to your original posts, so it looks all original from the outside. 

I recommend these.........From heart ache experience  😕http://dynamoregulators.com/dvr2.php

Ron

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will give it a good clean up and then test it, fingers crossed it will be ok but if not I think a solid state regulator is definitely the best way forward!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On a separate note can I ask how you WD bike owners apply/applied your number plate letter/numbers? I know there’s a few companies out there making good stencils but I have seen a few original/period number plates with the letters and numbers hand painted. Is this how all period plates were created?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the hardest parts to source to date was an orginal field stand.

My particular bike has the later welded lug, 6 months of searching I found a genuine field stand tucked away in France, a little worse for wear but solid all the same. It finally arrived through the post today, still with signs of military paint in places too!

IMG_3301.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...