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Tomo.T

Another J Type on the way !

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49 minutes ago, Tomo.T said:

I saw that article too, but thought Phosgene a bit unlikely. 

It seems likely that it could be made, though one might expect it to decompose again (200C, again according to Wikipedia)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosgene

And that would lead to the emission of CO and Cl, neither of which are particularly good for you either. Though all three gasses probably beat being on fire. 

 

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 One reason I was so keen to get a correct style fire extinguisher is that one of them was involved in my chosen vehicles history. From 60 Coy  war diaries;

25 January 1916.  Lorry WD No. 5529 caught fire due to petrol splashing onto a hurricane lamp whilst filling. 

Damage was restricted to seat  steering wheel and tilt. The driver  Cpl. Gow was able to extinguish the blaze with his 'Pyrene' and the vehicle was repaired in the Unit Workshop at an estimated cost of £8. Cpl. Gow was reprimanded. 

It must be remembered that electric torches were an expensive rarity at the time so filling a petrol tank by the light of a hurricane lamp was presumably accepted practice. Cpl Gow managed to survive any minor burns or poison gas inhalation and successfully avoided further mention in the war diaries.

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Posted (edited)

It now only remained to strip out the camshafts and the dismantling was done. Almost immediately I hit a familiar problem which Steve also encountered on the Gosling Thorny. The end of the exhaust camshaft bearing locating bolt had broken off. This meant that the camshaft was still captive in the crankcase until this peg could be removed.

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It didn't take long to load up the crankcase  and seek help at Stan's.  Steve's solution to the problem was to drill out the offending widget and Stan quickly produced a cored out bolt to act as a drilling guide. Attempts to drill ours failed however and hardness of the metal was thought to be responsible.

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After a good night's sleep we approached the problem again and Stan decided the widget was actually spinning in its hole. No wonder it wouldn't drill !  A magnet on a stick was produced and that should have been it sorted, but no, the little sod had just enough of a thread on it to prevent it's extraction. Eventually Stan hit on the brilliant idea of raising the peg as far as possible with the magnet, whilst simultaneously tapping  out the camshaft.  This worked a treat and all the parts were removed from the crankcase. Stan you're a star. Don't miss the next thrilling instalment 'Cleaning the crankcase'.

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Edited by Tomo.T
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Nice i had mice in an 5hp engine that i found under a tarpaulin in a garden, they jumped out when i was picking it up. 😊.

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Posted (edited)

The crankcase first had a good scrape followed by a rotary wire brushing. Pics by Stan.

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This revealed a couple of interesting  things, firstly original machining marks, still there under a light coating of rust. Not often seen in English restorations !

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received_695050734267756.thumb.jpeg.6c7e52b59ed2c05465d45c4816a91e98.jpegsSecondly we think this may be the mark of the engine builder in Australia. It is made up of letter ' I ' stamps, formed into a 'W'. Whoever he was, he made a good job and much of his work will run again, 70 odd years down the line.

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Having got the outside sharpened up, it was time to get stuck in to the black hole within. Note, it would have been better to start here.  This was proper minging !

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Edited by Tomo.T
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Cast iron crank-case? 

I was surprised by that, so far I have only seen (or noticed the material of) Aluminium (Dennis, for example) or Bronze (FIAT) crank-cases of that period. 

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Steering box worm surrenders after a good fight. 

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Just got it rocking and slowly increased the action with regular flushes. The white metal insert is still in good order with no appreciable wear or damage.

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Posted (edited)

I've got to admit, the crankcase inside proved  to be a pig of a job. I had several goes at it with various solvents, but eventually had to resort to proper chemical assistance in the form of Stewart the Blaster Man with all the armoury of the Truck Wash at his disposal.

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The carbon and oil at last began to shift, but the nice clean surface began to rust immediately. We had to move fast to get the crankcase back and dried off while we still had one !

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I decided to get some Bonda Prime on the job straight after another clean up and blow dry and just went for it, gasket surfaces and all.

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This was most satisfying and marks the start of the reassembly of the engine.

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Edited by Tomo.T
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Another great restauration. Well done to those involved.

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Thanks, but I fear we will grind to a halt on this one, without a diff and gearbox.

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A little light polishing with very fine 2000 grade paper soon produced a surprisingly good finish on the crank journals.

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Note the crank position indicator No's 1 & 4 shown here

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Slight wear is visible but we are hoping to re engage this crankshaft for further service, subject to an accurate measuring session.

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1 hour ago, Tomo.T said:

Slight wear is visible but we are hoping to re engage this crankshaft for further service, subject to an accurate measuring session.

I would have no qualms putting that back in to service. 

Not that I am any kind of expert. 

But, what fraction of the bearing surface is missing? 2%?

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The fore and aft steering tube put up another good fight and needed some heat applied before finally surrendering the goods.

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Even then there was a sting in the tail as the last man in came out broken in two from an old fracture.

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The rest of the team are good to go after a thorough  clean up and are resting in a box awaiting their new team mate

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The new man is proving a little hard to find as he doesn't fit into modern stock die spring sizes, either European or Japanese. Can anyone recommend a one off die spring maker who would undertake this work please?

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49 minutes ago, Tomo.T said:

 Can anyone recommend a one off die spring maker who would undertake this work please?

I have always found Lee Spring to be helpful. They advertise that they make custom springs. 

I got a wave spring from them, they insisted on sending a sample, and when I pointed out that I would only ever need one, they said that was fine. 

I assume from what you say that you have tried putting your parameters in their spring finder? 

https://www.leespring.co.uk/uk_compression_spec.asp?springType=C&subType=H&forWhat=Search

 

You could consider buying oversize and grinding down on a mandrel. 

 

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Alternatively, you could make something up using Belleville washers or even laminate some 1/4" rubber and flat steel washers. It only needs to take the shock out of the system. If you use rubber, make sure the rubber washers are smaller in diameter than the steel in order to allow somewhere for the rubber to go under load.

We were fortunate in that we had two drag links (both of which were scrap) and in each case, one spring had survived.

Steve   :)

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49 minutes ago, Old Bill said:

Alternatively, you could make something up using Belleville washers or even laminate some 1/4" rubber and flat steel washers.

I am surprised you are not suggesting machining from solid with some extreme thread cutting on a Myford :-)

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And the winner is...... Tested Springs. What a good old fashioned firm. They also do leaf springs to old patterns. 

Lee Springs do not produce square section.

Thanks for input.

Tomo

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Turns out the MJ 1  1/4" bearings for the steering box are still a standard size and readily available, together with their 3 part thrust bearing buddies. As these bearings will have a fairly leisurely existence with only occasional low speed work, ( in luxurious grease filled surroundings, ) It was suggested that top of the range items would not be necessary.  Mid range products were therefore chosen for the task and a light pressing saw them taking their positions for a trial fitting, at half the cost of their branded cousins.

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Steering box reporting for duty. Slight panic when.the action appeared to get stiff after the bolts were tightened but this was traced to the end cap having been nipped up too tight and the problem disappeared when the endfloat was restored.

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I have filled the voids with lithium grease, should oil be added to this?

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We are restoring a 1918 International truck, and have found the original Timken bearings in the gearbox still available. However, the rear hubs had Hyatt bearings that were in a very bad way, and when we surprisingly found the bore diameter to be 100mm, we were able to adapt pairs of 32211 (100 x 55 x 27) tapered roller bearings and made sleeves for the axles. 32211 were available in a range of qualities, and we opted for ones costing only AUD25 each. Our truck will travel maybe 5Km per year and never on public roads. There is something to be said for metric over imperial bearings on price.

The International has planetary drives in the rear wheels, so the hubs are free running on the axles.

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Posted (edited)

Hello Ian,

Good to hear you are progressing well with the' Inter. Down Under'. You should start a thread for it and publicise the museum !

The postman has today brought two new drag link springs from Tested Springs at Tividale. They have produced exact copies of the original, even searching out 1/4" imperial stock to make them from. Nice job.

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Edited by Tomo.T
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Found a useful part languishing on the spare frame, which was missing on the project chassis. One starting handle socket. Unfortunately the 'Ozrust' had taken an unsually firm hold and the blighter refused to budge, despite a month off, relaxing in a deisel bath .

After a bit of light straining it became obvious that heavier artillery would be necessary and Stan produced the world's biggest tap wrench and lit up the oxycetylene. 

Resistance quickly crumbled under this ferocious  assault and amidst plumes of smoke from vaporizing penetrant, the socket slowly began to turn again.

Would have made a good picture but unfortunately our hands were full. Here is a reconstruction of the method of attack. You'll have to imagine the smoke.

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