andypugh Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 1 minute ago, andypugh said: https://goo.gl/images/eanLNe Also shows that the motor drives a ring gear on the flywheel of the lathe. So I am rather sure that it is a Drummond lathe. http://www.lathes.co.uk/drummond-geared-flywheel/ Shows what looks like _exactly_ the same lathe, with the leadscrew handwheel and clasp nut on the side of the apron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 Note, also, that the Drummond double-height-bed 5" lathe in this photo is being used with a powered overhead to grind a crank journal. https://s3.amazonaws.com/gwfattachments/monthly_05_2015/post-63666-0-71611300-1430571758_thumb.jpg And the far end of the crank is being supported by a Con-rod held in the drilling vice on the drill press 🙂 That's a Gosling level of machine capacity stretching. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 (edited) The narrow gauge War Department Light Railway workshop trains are well illustrated in WDLR Album by Roy Link. They seem to be built onto the standard D Class bogie wagon chassis and are therefore longer than the IWM example. Could be the source of the idea that it was once a railway wagon, although it would have had to be cut down. Edited September 14, 2018 by simon king Duplication of idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 And more interesting pics on this forum https://www.greatwarforum.org/topic/173218-ww1-military-motors-1916-set-x-50-cards/?page=142 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 So at "Woolpit Steam" last year, my brother got a lead on a Drummond lathe of the correct pattern for his workshop body. The deal was that we had to find an equivalent lathe to replace it - it was still being used. So a slightly more up-to-date Boxford with all the ancillaries was duly found, dismantled and delivered to its new home. The Boxford was reassembled on site, meanwhile the Drummond was stripped and loaded in the back of the car. This has been thoroughly paraffin washed and allowed to dry before applying linseed oil to bring up the original paintwork. He has a 3-jaw and 4-jaw chuck as per the original specification, though not sure they are the originals, also the face-plate and a steady that can either be fixed or travelling. There's also a selection of change wheels, but not the complete set. These do turn up - patience is required. This lathe looks to have never has a treadle fitted. He is missing the original 110V dc motor, also the cast iron knee that supported it. However, everything else is in wonderful order. There's even the ASC requisition plate below the makers' plate. The weather was clement in Suffolk today and with the aid of our neighbour's fork-lift, the lathe was lifted into place. Preparing for the lift. This platform / side panel was the one which had the hole for the stove-pipe cut through. Note the temporary roof. Shelter from the sun (and rain!) at GDSF 2018. Carefully lifting into position. Note "War Finish" stencil on the end of the bed, just above the leg. Final position. Dimensions measured from the body at Duxford. Many thanks to the curatorial team there, who have been extremely helpful and accommodating. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cel Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 That looks very good! Do you have the other tools and dynamo? It will make a great display when finished. Marcel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 11 hours ago, Cel said: That looks very good! Do you have the other tools and dynamo? It will make a great display when finished. Marcel Marcel, My brother only has the lathe and the switchboard. Switchboard is Austin and has W^D on one of the meters. Differs from the Duxford example in that it is open, not in a cabinet. Also the voltage regulator is built into the panel whereas the Duxford example has the voltage regulator bolted onto the dynamo. We understand it was discovered in a motor repair garage. May have been W^D surplus equipment, re-purposed. Or may have been constructed by Austin for civilian use, using surplus W^D components. He is looking for the following tools: Silver Mfg Co No 24 drill Luke & Spencer grinder Wolf electric drill & stand He also needs an Austin 8 hp, 4 cylinder T-head radiator cooled 110v generating set with 3.5 kw dynamo and shunt regulator. Regards Doc 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Many thanks to Gary for spotting this must - have accessory on our favourite on-line auction site Maybe it goes in here? 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 This tatty old case once contained spark plug testing apparatus (according to a stencil on the side). More recently it, like the Leyland chassis on which the workshop body is mounted, was used by an East Anglian showman. It's just the right size for Drummond lathe accessories, so has been repurposed. Some additional fitting out will be required before the chucks, steady and change gears are stowed in the box. Many thanks to a generous benefactor for donating this finishing touch. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 Love that padlock. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 All good things must come to an end and for David, three weeks of furlough finished Friday. Back to work Monday morning. He feels the time has not been entirely wasted; I tend to agree. Steaming the first of four hoops for the workshop roof. Actually we steamed five so we would have a spare, just in case... Hoops clamped in place and to a temporary ridge piece. This will be removed once he has finished clambering about on the roof. Boarding out. Canvas laid out and trimmed to size. Rolled back in preparation for applying the adhesive. Bulldog clips at either end are a precaution against the canvas sliding down the roof. Liberal application of "Williamsons Roof Canvas Bonding" Edges turned over and tacked in position. Covering laths to follow. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynx42 Rick Cove Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Looking good. You don't seem to have a lot of room to work upon the roof with the roof frames so close, and I do hope the roller door is not all the way up or you will have to let the air out of the solid rubber tyres. LOL! When I restored my Albion A10 I only had 1.5 inches clearance both sides and to the bottom of the open roller door to the top of the front board. The canopy frames had to be made removable as the canopy was about 8 inches higher than the door opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Rick, You're right, not much room to spare, but this is the only shed tall enough. The roller shutter does just go up high enough to get the Leyland out, but you have to be careful not to wind the door clean out of the guides. When David has sorted through the pictures, I'll post a selection of the body at various stages of construction (or reconstruction) being moved from one shed to another each time it outgrew its home. All the best, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nz2 Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 What was the procedure with applying paint to the canvas. Is the yellow paint a sealer only ? I recall making canvas covered canoes all those years ago and sealing the canvas with linseed oil before applying the various paint layers. The weight of the canoe increased greatly due to the addition of the paint. I was expecting that I would follow a similar line to that used years ago, come the day when a roof is ready here. One day... Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted May 17, 2020 Share Posted May 17, 2020 Doug, Yes, it is a linseed oil based product. A good coating is first applied to the roof timbers. Next the canvas is folded back over the adhesive and bedded down with a roller. During this process you start to see the compound coming through the weft of the cloth. Finally a second coat is applied to the exterior surface of the canvas before the whole is left to dry. Thereafter painting gives the final colour. As you recall, the product is extremely heavy - too dense for the tins - the bottoms bulge so far as to touch the floor. Regards Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 Ran into this 1919 ad. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpsmit Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 On 5/17/2020 at 3:21 PM, nz2 said: What was the procedure with applying paint to the canvas. Is the yellow paint a sealer only ? I recall making canvas covered canoes all those years ago and sealing the canvas with linseed oil before applying the various paint layers. The weight of the canoe increased greatly due to the addition of the paint. I was expecting that I would follow a similar line to that used years ago, come the day when a roof is ready here. One day... Doug Not entirely sure how important complete accuracy is but, a couple of summers ago I was restoring a '60's vintage wood/canvas canoe and used this to fill the canvas. It wasn't difficult (rub in with another piece of canvas) and made a very nice and aterproof finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpsmit Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 20 hours ago, Citroman said: Ran into this 1919 ad. Love the ad - and even more so the copy. One of my Vaxuhall Manuals (only from the late 60's) says words to the effect of "the average person should be able to remove the engine in about 2 hours." Not sure where that 'average person' is these days. 😅 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 For many restoration projects it's the small details that make a big difference; the Leyland workshop certainly falls into this category. David is very fortunate to have an original Austinlite switchboard but this is missing five out of seven fuses. Back in early March I sourced some Tufnol tube to make replacements however this didn't arrive in Bristol until long after I had scarpered. Now things are back to a version of normality that if not normal is becoming scarily familiar, I've found a few spare moments to start fuse making. "A picture speaks a thousand words" they say. So to spare my writing and your reading, here's a selection of photos depicting the process: Parting off tubes turning the shoulders drilling out the bore harvesting blanks turning the outside diameter drilling out the clearance holes breaking sharp edges. We'll not say too much about that... assembled (with a dab of superglue for good measure) with an original for comparison. I have a length of brass square to make the end connection blocks. There's several hours work ahead of me. I'll keep you posted. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 16 minutes ago, Doc said: breaking sharp edges. We'll not say too much about that... I think it's legitimate enough, there are even special files for the job: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-1-104-14-3-0-Lathe-File/dp/B0002YQ5PI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Remember when lock-downs were still a novelty? Well, back in March 2020 this rather delightful little beauty appeared on our favourite on-line auction site. In response to the "Make and Offer" option an offer was made, which was promptly refused. The drill was subsequently bought second bid. A forum stalwart kindly took delivery and when free movement was once again possible (which now seems a distant memory) it made its way up country to Oxfordshire. Finally, after the 2nd lock-down was over, we were able to collect it. So we have a Silver Manufacturing Co. Advance No. 12 drill. A little smaller than the No. 24 as listed in the parts book, hence the oak spacer block, but maybe if we keep it warm and nurture it, it might grow. In the real world, maybe one will turn up. But in the mean-time, this is a good substitute. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Great War truck Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 That looks great. Which bits are you still on the lookout for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 10 minutes ago, Great War truck said: That looks great. Which bits are you still on the lookout for? You're very kind. Still looking for Luke and Spencer grinder, 110V Wolf drill and stand, 4-cylinder Austinlite generator. As illustrated earlier in this post. Also looking for a Leyland 36HP inlet manifold for the lorry. Any leads greatly appreciated. Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rootes75 Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Well that really does look the business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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