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Royal Enfield ......Rare find No. 2 (really No.3)

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Nice Ron, that's almost the last thing isn't it??

Stand posted this afternoon, with the U bracket and hardware for the battery carrier, nothing plated though! (should it?) Oh and the 4 tankbolts also, let me know when it gets there, hopefully not so molested as the last package!

Cheers,

Lex

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Did you remember the Vokes tube, Brass sliders and DU142 screw kit?

My platers are having some issue with last batch of dull nickel (collected Wed)......Last few bits are a tad shinier than I like. So I want them to hopefully resolve it for next time I take stuff. Fortunately yours was nearly all done anyway. Any few bits that need plating or re-plating can be done your end.

Still filling small bit of the tank and blocking down with 40 grit. This is the best time for me to rob someone as I have no finger prints left🥴 Ron

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On 2/20/2020 at 10:00 PM, welbike said:

Ok, all welded, and painted, quite chuffed with how nice it turned out! With lot’s of help from forum member, and Royal Enfield guru Jan, who supplied the drawing and pivot parts!

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It might be a bit late, but I have an original of one of these early stands in my garage. PM me if you interested.

 

Edited by Tom M

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Thanks Tom, sent you a pm. Was looking for an original one for 2 years! so not to hold up the restoration, we made one, but I always prefer original stuff, and the bike, with the history, deserves it! To think it was sent to France exactly 80 years ago, and now being lovingly restored back in the UK, is a nice thing!

Thanks,

Lex

Edited by welbike
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Tank filled and blocked down, followed by a coat of red oxide and 1/2 ltr of high build primer. The 240 wet and dry process next. 

Ron

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Three coats of Khaki yesterday. paint needs to harden for a few days before manhandling and attempting to fit knee grips. Ron

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Posted (edited)

Well I've finished my part of it and back over to Lex now. Just hope he doesn't get stymied in any way at the ferry port.

I still think the 50 cal machine gun rail is a bit over the top though for a little Royal Enfield 🥴Ron

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Edited by Ron
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Wow!  Another Class A restoration from the Pier workshop.

 

A question Ron, how do you get the tank transfers to adhere properly on the matt paint? I tried on a previous bike and they just flaked off. 

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Hi Tom

Maybe your transfers where old? Or the weather was cold? But generally I don't have much problem with transfers from   https://classictransfers.co.uk/

Even to the point of fitting them to the double curvature of a motorcycle tank. Then some clear lacquer when they're dry. 

 

Ron

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OK, yes, I did get home OK,. but very, very late!! I slept all day today, and still a bit shattered, all this getting up at O'dark is not what I'm used to!

We removed the Halftrack Perimeter rail very easily, with a car lift.

Did start the WD-C this afternoon, but has some little issues, which I will hopefully rectify tomorrow.

Thanks again Ron!!!

Cheers,

Lex

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10 hours ago, Tom M said:

Wow!  Another Class A restoration from the Pier workshop.

 

A question Ron, how do you get the tank transfers to adhere properly on the matt paint? I tried on a previous bike and they just flaked off. 

Tom, I had this issue with the James, the transfer just fell off, and I did discuss this with Ron, but the guys from Classic tranfers were very amandment that the transfers have to be applied on a shiny, glossy surface!! (but they did send me replacements free of charge) so I bought a spraycan of glossy clear lacquer, and aplied that, let it thoroughly dry, then applied the transfer, let dry again for a couple of days, then spray with a matte lacquer (available in petrol resistant stuff from modellers shops), and all is well!!

Hope this helps,

Lex

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Here is a picture of the glossy patch with transfer, strange never made a picture from the end result with matte varnish, will do so next week or so.

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On the ferry now! The bike will be back on the continent where it has been since 1940! Hopefully I can retrieve the C number on the front number plate, there's something under the layer of high build primer.

Cheers, Lex 

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Ok, did not submit that last message, but that was last Sunday!

Now it's Thursday, and have been doing a little "tweaking" and while the carb was off, I found out the previous owner had fitted the wrong jet, possibly for fuel economy, so while picking up another project today, I noticed these Amal jets, and the kind owner gave me the right jets!

Cheers, Lex 

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Posted (edited)

So, the NOS jet has now joined more NOS parts, and the sprayed body and float chamber, the top of that was really stuck, so boiled it in water for ten minutes, that did it! (also a good method to get jet blocks out of the bodies, without hurting something) also found a  filter/flame trap in my stockpile of Amal parts, just had to turn an adapter as none were ever made for the 274 type, that would fit straight away, so will fit it tomorrow!

Cheers, Lex 

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Edited by welbike
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That's strange that the float cap was stuck! I'm positive I took it off "cold" to check for spiders nest and check the float?

From memory, I don't think you can fit these carbs complete with flame trap with the tool box in place. I think you can fit the flame trap afterwards by removing the circlip first then install the circlip afterwards. .....But I guess you need to find a better toolbox catch anyway?  Ron

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Ok Ron, could not get it off, and didn't want to break anything, it was clean inside, and all looked well, amazing the carb was still the original one from the factory, will send that body off to Martyn at some point, to have it refurbished, the NOS one will do for now. I did do a trial fit before painting, so it's indeed exactly as you say, will deal with the little lock later, have a spare for parts, it doesn't have the little lips on the edges to mount it, but rest is the same, so will replace the tiny leaf spring, but have to repaint the whole lid then probably. Can the lid be taken off  separately?

Cheers, Lex 

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Posted (edited)

Lex there's just a simple wire pivot on the toolbox lid as you can see. You will need to 'unwind' the 'hasps' on both ends of the wire to remove it. Or maybe the one in the middle? I've never tried (never really needed to) it could end in tears. Having said that, it's probably dead easy?  Ron

Edited by Ron

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Posted (edited)

Ok, I never bothered with taking the lid off in the end, ground the 4 little rivets off on the inside of the lid, and then the fun began!!! in the end I did not need any of the parts from the spare lock, and managed to save everything, on metal lip broke off on the hinged part, but soft soldered it back on again! all that was wrong really was a lot of old dried out grease, sand, rust, paint and blasting grit that was inside the lock, took me about 3 afternoons of work though!

Cheers,

Lex

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Well done Lex. It's very satisfying when you achieve such a repair.......And what can you do with your afternoons at the moment anyway?  Ron 

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Yes, still loads of stuff to do (bought more bikes!!!),  I'm never bored! 

Here some more pictures of the lock, will fit toolbox this morning and take more pictures.

Cheers,

 

Lex

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Me too! Currently restoring a Lucas PLC5 switch for my 39 C10.  Ron

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