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Royal Enfield ......Rare find No. 2 (really No.3)

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56 minutes ago, ltwtbarmy said:

May I suggest POR 15 from Frost UK? Have done three fuel tanks so far, including a Zundapp one and have had no issues whatsoever. I also use the stuff on Jaguar radiator expansion tanks because they tend to rust easily and have had no problems with them either.

Ok, may I ask, how long ago did you use the POR 15? and have the tanks been used with all sorts of petrol? I really hope this will work, but have had so many negative feedback over the years. 

Hope you understand,

Cheers, Lex

Edited by welbike
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34 minutes ago, Ron said:

Yes much as we try to avoid tank liner/sealer, we have decided to probably go that route. Thanks for the suggestion as I've been studying the market for the best Ethanol proof option. 

Today's efforts after some more "three steps forward and two steps back" include the primary case foot rests brake pedal and a start on the wiring.....Dynamo and regulator at least. Ron 

 

Ron, OK, we'll work on the twist grip stuff and the brake rod, but the very meaning of sourcing this out to you, and very gratefull you took it on, is that I would have never had the means to quickly see what was wrong! and there was far more wrong than we thought at first! but it will still come out right in the end!! it's almost there!! hang in there!

Cheers,

Lex 

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32 minutes ago, welbike said:

Ok, may I ask, how long ago did you use the POR 15? and have the tanks been used with all sorts of petrol? I really hope this will work, but have had so many negative feedback over the years. 

Hope you understand,

Cheers, Lex

Hi Lex. A Dodge tank was the first and that was two years ago. Then I did an Austin Cambridge A60 pickup fuel tank and the Zundapp at the same time a year or so ago. The Xj6 expansion tanks were done in between, but they don’t count since you want to know about petrol and effects thereof on the POR15. The Dodge, A60 and the Zundapp are all filled with E10 unleaded with some lead replacement added. No comebacks from anyone yet.

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40 minutes ago, welbike said:

Ron, OK, we'll work on the twist grip stuff and the brake rod, but the very meaning of sourcing this out to you, and very gratefull you took it on, is that I would have never had the means to quickly see what was wrong! and there was far more wrong than we thought at first! but it will still come out right in the end!! it's almost there!! hang in there!

Cheers,

Lex 

It's not your fault Lex! I've been here many times before.....and far worse! But at my age I wouldn't want to take them on again. I've still got the same perseverance and determination. But while the mind is willing, sometimes the body is a bit weak.😉 Ron   

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Ron, 

I used Por15 on my Matchless G3L tank, although never really had petrol in for a long time but was impressed with the stuff. 

Thanks again For the Vokes plate. 

 

 

 

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I've had POR15 in one of my vehicles for over 8 years and no problems.

We have in two of our vehicles and it is good but you MUST follow the instructions to the T.

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Thanks for all the answers on the coating! that restores some of my apprehension against them!

Cheers,

Lex

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OK, coating is ordered, after much deliberation we decided on the Caswell stuff (on their webpage they sell a coating remover for amongs others, "failed POR 15 coatings"!!), time will tell.

Ron has got the fiddly twist grip stuff under control, but was a bit of a mixup of used and repro parts, so not easy. 

Cheers,

Lex

 

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Edited by welbike
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Then he went on with the wiring, I supplied the rubber wire, and for the colour coding, modern shrink tubing, and all looks neat and like original. we'll see if the original 1940 dated regulator will work or not, when the engine is running.

Cheers,

Lex

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Edited by welbike
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OK, last for today, pictures of the very nice toolroll a forum member here made for me, still looking for the box spanners, if anyone has some? 

Cheers,

Lex

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Edited by welbike
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The 5/16" x 3/8"w double-ended box didn't ought to be a problem, but single-ended box spanners are hard to find...The RE singled-endeds are short though. Maybe you can cut something down ? Do you know which make ?

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Ok, I still have to write down the sizes for the box spanners and check what I may already have!

The make of some spanners is Shelley!

Cheers, Lex 

Edited by welbike

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Lex the picture you posted of the 'naked' throttle twist grip is actually the one I acquired from Bastiaan for one of my C10's. Yours was even more fiddly as it has an outer steel cover over the spiral grooves which means you can't see whether the brass sliders are located properly or not😕  Ron 

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Before I start with the tank liner and any work on the exterior of the tank, I needed to de-rust it inside. So it's been soaking for most of the day as per the instructions and it's now draining down. Ron 

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Nice Ron! hope it will all will be OK, time will tell, but have a bit of faith in it!

Cheers, Lex

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Since I've just started working on the tank, I suddenly remembered that the previous owners had cut and buggered about with the petrol pipe, to make it fit the BSA tank and whatever carb was fitted. So I thought it best to see if I could do something with it now. I also noticed (and on a previous occasion) that the distance between the petrol taps on these RE tanks is not consistent. It was a bit of a stretch to get the relatively short pipe to reach. I hope it works ok? so for now it's just sprayed with petrol proof lacquer. 

The patina of the petrol tank would suit a lot of guys so I'll leave it like that! Hope Lex likes it too?😣 Ron

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This is the third WD/C tank that I've worked on over the last 2 years that has been a real struggle to fit the very un-flexible fuel pipe..... I've just realized why!!!

From years of fare wear and tear, abuse-and/or welding repair work the tanks have splayed open a tad at the bottom. I found by squeezing the tank at the rear mounting bolts, it was quite easy to pull the tank in again.......But of course it springs back again. But by repeated attempts, I've reduced the distance by about 1/8".  I made a plate to stop it moving back while I set about the tank sealer last night in the confines of the warm house. 

My Velo's have such a support plate fitted at the factory to stop the tanks from spreading in this way.  Ron 

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Edited by Ron

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On 2/17/2020 at 10:23 PM, Ron said:

Since I've just started working on the tank, I suddenly remembered that the previous owners had cut and buggered about with the petrol pipe, to make it fit the BSA tank and whatever carb was fitted. So I thought it best to see if I could do something with it now. I also noticed (and on a previous occasion) that the distance between the petrol taps on these RE tanks is not consistent. It was a bit of a stretch to get the relatively short pipe to reach. I hope it works ok? so for now it's just sprayed with petrol proof lacquer. 

The patina of the petrol tank would suit a lot of guys so I'll leave it like that! Hope Lex likes it too?😣 Ron

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Yes, nice patina!! It should have been left like the bike bike was ridden by the priest, but the owner after that painted it black!!

Cheers, Lex 

 

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Aren’t you afraid Ron, that when you remove the plate, and the tank springs back, that the coating will crack? Or is it quite flexible??

in the meantime I got the stand almost ready, just weld the tube to the pivot!

cheers, Lex

 

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Edited by welbike
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No the plate is quite loose, I can lift it off and on, But it will stay there while I work on the tank. The sealer has gone on well, so now for the topside. Ron

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Ok, thanks, I'm always worrying about this stuff, have had to help 4 mates to remove the stuff, and it's not nice! 

Have found someone to weld the side stand, as my mates welder packed up this week! 

So it will be sent all this Friday.

Cheers, and have fun with the outside of the tank!

Lex

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Ok, all welded, and painted, quite chuffed with how nice it turned out! With lot’s of help from forum member, and Royal Enfield guru Jan, who supplied the drawing and pivot parts!

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Edited by welbike
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First filling and course blocking.  Ron

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