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It’s really amazing how close you got to the original. Thanks Richard for sharing it. 

Aidan

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On 29 April 2018 at 7:34 PM, Boley said:

For now I will do a temporary repair and maybe in the future I can lift the cab off and remove the block.

As long as you are certain that the cracking is only affecting the external water jackets and if leakage is all that you are concerned about,  there are several products which you add to the coolant which will seal the cracks permanently. I can personally recommend Holts Wundaweld. I recently tried this on a Rolls-Royce B80 with frost damage (more in hope than expectation of success) and it hasn't leaked a drop since.

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No leaks into pistons or sump which is great news, the rad housing was cracked and 90% blocked so had to remove it. I’ll give it a try when I get the rad back on. Good to know this works as some of the stuff on the market isn’t great.

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A couple of drawings from the big ben file plus  a couple showing the dolly for the FV 2700 semi trailer and one of the original photos used in the drivers hand book of the cargo version

bb1.jpg

bb2.jpg

bb3.jpg

bb4.jpg

bb5.jpg

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Finally got the radiator unblocked after a lot of hours pushing thin wire up and down the core tubes.

!cid_56cfc2df-57dd-4396-bef1-ddd4e87d32de.jpg

!cid_ff753a25-2cc1-451b-a589-09a340ae5171.jpg

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10 hours ago, Boley said:

Finally got the radiator unblocked after a lot of hours pushing thin wire up and down the core tubes.

!cid_56cfc2df-57dd-4396-bef1-ddd4e87d32de.jpg

!cid_ff753a25-2cc1-451b-a589-09a340ae5171.jpg

That's an ingenious way to clean a radiator , and save water , top marks from me..

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There was a Tornycroft engine still in the crate at a military vehicle dealer in Holland,

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1 minute ago, guy66 said:

There was a Tornycroft engine still in the crate at a military vehicle dealer in Holland,

I'll have a look online, have you a name for the dealer. I would be interested but might be outside my budget.

Thanks

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The dealer is D. van Dam and the engine is in there Herkenbosch warehouse ,

they have a website but the engine is not on it, www.dvandam.nl 

I have now links with this dealer .

Guy

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4 minutes ago, guy66 said:

The dealer is D. van Dam and the engine is in there Herkenbosch warehouse ,

they have a website but the engine is not on it, www.dvandam.nl 

I have now links with this dealer .

Guy

It is very tempting but I don't want to spend too much and I have a feeling an engine that is still in a pallet would be too expensive. Good to know in case I find major problems with my engine.

They have a good website.

Thanks

 

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35 minutes ago, Boley said:

It is very tempting but I don't want to spend too much and I have a feeling an engine that is still in a pallet would be too expensive. Good to know in case I find major problems with my engine.

They have a good website.

Thanks

 

It can't hurt to ask the price, you might be pleasantly surprised.

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3 minutes ago, MatchFuzee said:

It can't hurt to ask the price, you might be pleasantly surprised.

That's true. worth asking the price anyway and don't have to commit.

 

 

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Dear All,

Since the engine is fed by an oil bath air filter it may still be quite good.  It would use quite a lot of petrol to wear it out! Does it still turn over easily?  Has it got six even compressions?  I would only give up on it if it has been run for a while and still does not have even compressions

My comment is that large petrol engines can benefit hugely from retro fitting electronic fuel injection (EFI) and there are several 'DIY' systems available now.  I am working on a system for the REME museum's Conqueror ARV.  The reduction in fuel consumption is noticeable between the Conqueror and the Centurion.  I hope to be able to report to the forum results from the latest iteration.

The carburettor system on a big engine is very crude.  However, the designer will have been very careful to ensure that the engine always runs a little bit rich in order to eliminate the risk of burning out the pistons.  EFI can ensure that the mixture is always correct and optimal. EFI normally has Cranking Enrichment, After Start Enrichment, and Cold Start enrichment so starting and cold running is much better.  The Meteor in the Conqueror always starts directly after about three revolutions if it is going to start at all.  It is also possible to retrofit EFI quite discretely.

Once I have perfected the system for the Conqueror I will share all that I have learned on this and other forums.  I will be very happy to share what I have found out and provide advice on a pro bono basis.

John

 

 

 

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from memory the problem with them was even with engine and rad drain cocks open about 4" of water was left in the block. some of the reconditioned spare motors were dynometer tested for oil pressure/compression. Others were bench tested filled with water. before being sprayed that light blue green colour. then crated. the water filled  ones all cracked in storage in the winter of 67. the dealer who sold us our big ben opened 3 crates before he found a good one. 

 

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agree with attleej in one respect the engine was a very good one for its size far better than the RB81 and although it seems eye watering now it compared well with 14 ton Commer cattle truck a local haulier ran it had humber super snipe engine it. if it aint leaking internally i would stick with it. plus i know it aint multifuel but a little contaminated petrol wont hurt it. If you do decide to change for another or change to diesel have a few tips that that will save a lot of grief cursing and swearing. 

 

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18 hours ago, attleej said:

Dear All,

Since the engine is fed by an oil bath air filter it may still be quite good.  It would use quite a lot of petrol to wear it out! Does it still turn over easily?  Has it got six even compressions?  I would only give up on it if it has been run for a while and still does not have even compressions

My comment is that large petrol engines can benefit hugely from retro fitting electronic fuel injection (EFI) and there are several 'DIY' systems available now.  I am working on a system for the REME museum's Conqueror ARV.  The reduction in fuel consumption is noticeable between the Conqueror and the Centurion.  I hope to be able to report to the forum results from the latest iteration.

The carburettor system on a big engine is very crude.  However, the designer will have been very careful to ensure that the engine always runs a little bit rich in order to eliminate the risk of burning out the pistons.  EFI can ensure that the mixture is always correct and optimal. EFI normally has Cranking Enrichment, After Start Enrichment, and Cold Start enrichment so starting and cold running is much better.  The Meteor in the Conqueror always starts directly after about three revolutions if it is going to start at all.  It is also possible to retrofit EFI quite discretely.

Once I have perfected the system for the Conqueror I will share all that I have learned on this and other forums.  I will be very happy to share what I have found out and provide advice on a pro bono basis.

John

 

 

 

The engine is running perfect and starts first turn every time, I haven't checked the compression as I dont have a gauge but I might borrow one and see.

very interesting fitting EFI to an engine like this and I would be keen to see how it works out for you, it would be worth fitting to this as the 2 carburetor system is very crude and can't be very accurate to set up.

looking forward to hearing how it goes..

 

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18 hours ago, cosrec said:

from memory the problem with them was even with engine and rad drain cocks open about 4" of water was left in the block. some of the reconditioned spare motors were dynometer tested for oil pressure/compression. Others were bench tested filled with water. before being sprayed that light blue green colour. then crated. the water filled  ones all cracked in storage in the winter of 67. the dealer who sold us our big ben opened 3 crates before he found a good one. 

 

I'll check out the price but might be better with what I have, the cracks aren't internal and will be repairable, if I decide to change it out I'll give you a shout but I will probably stick with my own engine.

Thanks

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Great to get the radiator back in, just the T to fit but looking better.

IMG_5002.jpg

panel.jpg

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that exactly as the one i fitted arrived in a crate the previous two  were laid on a pallet.both crack side down. i know you said your sticking with current arrangement but if you should ever change your mind the way to do it is take cab off  then take rear bulk head off with air filters then lift engine and gearbox out and split on floor. The clutch cover on engine has unusual pull clutch arrangement  hat needs access to four points on dis assembly top and bottom covers also rear engine mounts have to come of putting back together every thing  pushes back together  if you ever decide to fit a replacement engone with standard clutch it is dead simple to do 

  

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as an aside those big lumps of wood that engine is sat on where ciu up then sawn up then set into a fire place as shelves in a fire place in a house i lived in polished wax up nice

 

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