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K60 starter problems


Glennaagesen

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5 hours ago, Glennaagesen said:

Hi Andy 

Thanks for info. 

It will not start normally. One little zip of the starter spray in the air intake, and it runs. It stops when it gets close to idle. Then spray again to start it. Once it’s warm, it goes to idle and keeps idling. . 

Solinoid is working perfectly. Pulling and releasing. 

Now I have taken 3 injectors and will test the conditions. If it’s the problem, I will pull the other 3 also. 

I don't see that this can be an injector problem or it wouldn't run at all - that's why I asked.  It sounds more like failure or maladjustment of the excess fuel device in the FIP that provides extra fuel at low rpm, principally during cranking.  Unfortunately I can't find any information as detailed operation of the FIP is covered in an EMER that I've never seen.

Andy

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There is some information, including the solenoid adjustment, in the manuals available from the FV430 forum, but you won't find anything there about the excess fuel device I'm afraid.  You need EMER Pwr M110 and Pwr M132, which I've never seen.

Andy

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No idea either about the EMER either but this can not be a matter of adjusting anything as that would require it to be wrongly adjusted when it had been ok. How could that happen ? I understand that this problem started suddenly, nor over a long period so it is something broken, blocked, or stuck.

David

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I remember that the problem started after approximate 2 hours of “fun” in the field. It started completely normal, and ran completely normal. After 2 hours of running, without problems, I stopped it normally for a break. When I wanted to start again, I realized the problem. It would only start with power spray. 

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10 hours ago, Glennaagesen said:

I remember that the problem started after approximate 2 hours of “fun” in the field. It started completely normal, and ran completely normal. After 2 hours of running, without problems, I stopped it normally for a break. When I wanted to start again, I realized the problem. It would only start with power spray. 

That isn't a starter problem - If it were a gas engine, I would say it is fuel evaporation - not sure if there is a diesel equivelant

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Hi

I now ran a few tests. First of all I adjusted the injectors. Second, secured that I have fuel flow in the pump. 

 Now the problem starts, once the injectors are connected to the FIP. The pump is simply not able to produce enough pressure for the injectors. It’s also logic, with the low rpm and problems to start up. Once I blow the diesel start, the engine runs much higher rpm than on the starter, and the FIP can create just enough pressure, despite the leak. 

My conclusion so far: the FIP has a leak in the pump. 

So it’s now a matter of getting hands in a renovated one, or renovate my own. 

Does anyone have experience in changing FIP? The “new” one must be timed correctly to the engine. Any support on this task?

Regards. 

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Just reading this and knowing how these vehicles tend to stand around a lot, wondering if it is suffering from 'diesel algae'. You may not realise it but this occurs on pump side of filters as well as in the tank. I worked on a forklift recently that ran alright until it ran out of diesel, then would not bleed through. The filter was covered in slime on the outlet and a small gauze filter in the inlet of the pump was choked. I would be looking at the filters.

Just a thought.

Richard

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Hello All,

 

It's been a while since I've played with a fv430. But I have had one that needed the rack to have a bit of help to move into the run position. In your video you show the mechanism moving, but there is a rod with a bolt head, does that move in when the engine starts on easy start.

From experience of having to start engines once easy start used, they get addicted to it. Only way to stop is to rebuild engine, easy start not good for engines. Normally once you resort to sniffer something wrong.

Can you check that the super charger/blower is working/turning. It is a 2 stroke engine that needs pressurised air to run. That's why its there, force air in as it can't 'suck' it in like a 4 stroke. Have known blowers to fail, believe a thin drive shaft. Maybe because you starting with sniffer, it getting enough compression to start the cycle? Maybe worth looking at next if your sure getting plenty of fuel. Check air filters if you were playing in a dusty envoirment.

Hope that makes sense.

 

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the rack is sticking-watch your video clip, and see how the rod struggles to move at the end of travel. It  should move quickly all the way in until the far end of that adjusting screw is touching the steel contact pad visible on the ali pump body. This is basically the valve allowing fuel flow to the delivery plungers, and if its only partly open youre not getting enough fuel on cranking. Disconnect the solenoid to make sure it moves freely and easily by hand (if it does, then its the solenoid)

known problem-speak to H on the 432 forum-he's had a few 'rack' problems

don't adjust the screw until you can find the settings, its quite critical 

terry

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Hi

I have tried to work on it few times now. Trying to “push” the rod to the very end where it stucks. Same result. 

Even if the solinoid is not pulling fast enough, the engine should still start, once I support by pushing the rod. Right?

nothing has been adjusted or touched, since the machine was running perfect, till now where it’s not working. 

Still a mistery and no pressure on the FIP. 

Got today a second pack, which has low hours and renovated. So now I will make a swoop to get the “old” pack out which makes it easier to work on. 

Regards. 

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sounds like no fuel delivery-if you take off the flexible fuel hose going into the top of the injection pump from the fuel filter above the engine hours counter ( there are two hoses going into the top of the pump- one is feed, one is spill return) make sure you have pressurised fuel being pumped out in quantity when you turn the ignition on 

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Are you getting "lots of fuel" at the main in pipe to the Fuel Injection Pimp (FIP)? There is a relief valve 20 - 25 lbs in2 on the leak of pipe at the engine fuel filter, could be stuck open and loosing pressure down the spill pipes? 

Your new video would suggest that the FIP rack control arm is moving in the right direction. I think if that moves that rules out some problems that could be within the governor. There is oil in the governor housing?

There is pressure valve on the back of the governor housing, but I think if there was a problem with that the control rod wouldn't move?

Will it still run on easy start?

Is the blower working, should be able to tell if the water pump is turning, as the shaft turns both.

 

 

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On 01/03/2018 at 6:11 PM, Glennaagesen said:

Hi terry

I have new fuel filter and lots of fuel flow. 

I even have fuel out of the 6 outputs on the FIP. But pressure is low. It cannot pressure the fuel out of the injectors. 

it seems there is a restriction between fuel in and the gallery that feeds to each delivery plunger. remove the spill return hose off the top of the pump and with the ignition on and electric pump running there should be some flow coming out of the spill return from the injection pump. Then take off the fuel delivery hose and blow through from spill to fuel in on the pump to see if there is a blockage. My 432 was plumbed incorrectly-the fuel delivery hose was connected to the spill return on the pump, and the spill return hose was connected to the fuel in on the injection pump-and it ran fine!!

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9 hours ago, terryb said:

My 432 was plumbed incorrectly-the fuel delivery hose was connected to the spill return on the pump, and the spill return hose was connected to the fuel in on the injection pump-and it ran fine!!

Have seen this a couple of time, but don't remember ever causing a vehicle not to start. But it may have unsettled the resrictor valve I mentioned? It normally happens because there are 3 fuel pipes at the power pack junction, of which 2 are the same size and can easily be swopped.

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Hi

A quick update on this topic.

I have concluded that the fuel flow to the injectors, is not running as should. Either due to not enough fuel, or due to not enough pressure. 

The final step I took, was to remove the cover into the pressure pistons for each output. Looking at them working as should, when cranking, concluded that the mechanism works as should. Though I got suspicious about the "twist" of the valve on the top. The valve which must open for the fuel flow to the out puts. I could see how it was opening when cranking, but notices the marks on the "ring" It did not open so far.... (see pictures)

Now, looking into the housing behind the solenoid house, I noticed the push of the bar, opening the valves. It seems not to be bussing it all the way. Why? because of the adjustable screw, marked with "green". I now unscrewed the adjustable screw, to the maximum level, checking the the bar now can push all the way in. Yes it can.

So now I see that the "rings" opening for the output valves, are twisting to the very open position. I crank the engine, and it jumps to running immediately....

Conclusion so far: There was not enough fuel flow, simply because of not full open valves, caused by mis aligned adjustments.

I have now adjusted the screw to the very correct position, and the engine jumps into running straight away. Great.

Will keep you posted.

So far, thanks a lot for the very useful feedback from all of you. great stuff.

Regards.

 

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