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Vehicle Batteries


LarryH57

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On 14/02/2018 at 12:45 AM, LarryH57 said:

Someone once said to me that batteries in a vehicle prefer to be charged by the vehicle alternator rather than a trickle charge in the garage! Do batteries care? Does it make any difference to the battery life?

 

One potential issue is that typical battery chargers of years ago were not regulated nor intended as the main source for charging. This could result in the battery being overcharged.

Another issue that will shorten the life is regular very fast charging from units intended simply to get the vehicle started quickly.

With modern electronic chargers neither should cause a long term problem.

Batteries do like to be used and will deteriorate left in a state of low charge.

 

 

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Okay - so is it better in the winter months for me to just take my Lwt for a long drive every two weeks and leave it at that. The battery has a little green indicator light and in winter it glows much less bright than in summer. The vehicle still starts in winter though once this winter when it was very cold I used a booster (similar to those carried by the AA / RAC) as i thought it would HELP the battery!

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On 19/02/2018 at 10:16 AM, LarryH57 said:

Okay - so is it better in the winter months for me to just take my Lwt for a long drive every two weeks and leave it at that. The battery has a little green indicator light and in winter it glows much less bright than in summer. The vehicle still starts in winter though once this winter when it was very cold I used a booster (similar to those carried by the AA / RAC) as i thought it would HELP the battery!

A booster is intended for very occasional use.  When actually starting it will share the load but during the time between connecting and starting it will be charging the battery very fast. 

Since you will be planning to go out after not using the vehicle, rather than the AA/RAC call out situation of either that battery very low because of something left on or the battery failing, put the battery on a gentle charge with good modern charger intended for regular cyclic use for a few hours before.

With no drain a battery will loose little charge over a month. For modern vehicles the loss is the alarm etc permanently connected as much as the self discharge. Also while a cold battery can deliver less power also the self discharge is less.

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I was once told by a local tyre & battery vendor that he sold more car batteries in the height of summer than during winter months.  Batteries don't like heat - it distorts the plates and separators , this is where the more £ costly premium battery wins , it has more of a heavy duty plate and separator.  Use of a booster should be emergency only , the amperage is so heavy you can distort the plates, resulting in a cell short / voltage terminal drop - end of life for starting. Likewise use of a Chloride type resistance discharge tester can cream-cracker a already weak battery , because the old weak (part sulphated) battery can't give up the current demand - something has to give.

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35 minutes ago, LarryH57 said:

So does an emergency include a battery that doesn't have enough 'umph' to turn the starter motor over fast enough? 

Yes,  but it depends on circumstances and time available - if your vehicle is at home and you have time to use a trickle charger to build up the battery capacity , then that must do less harm to the battery short or long term. Occasional emergence start OK , frequent need  - then that needs sorting.  A booster or using a slave battery & jump cables - both bring about chemical changes at the service battery that are far greater than normally experienced with the vehicle alternator.  As well as booster / slave battery doing the starting work it is trying to equalize charge the battery at a lower state at too high a amperage , thus warming.

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I have used one of these for several years , actually two - early type with red neon 'power on' . The present model does not have it but I understood it to have improved internals.  However they are cheap , construction cheap - both failed where the output cable enters the sealed casing and no good way to repair.  Pay what you wish ,  seen them priced  £5 to £15 on eBay etc.

DRAPER BATTERY MASTER 12V TRICKLE/MAINTENANCE CHARGER - 22685

I have a Draper "Intelligent" charger , I think the model is BC1.  Used it over 12 years - still use it, however as a maintenance trickle - I now use the RING charger as it is very universal for all applications + tests.  Just switch to 'Auto' and let it do its own thing (several stages) , however you are looking abt.  £80

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DRAPER BATTERY MASTER 12V TRICKLE/MAINTENANCE CHARGER - 22685

 

i.e.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Automotive-Battery-Master-Charger/202180474776

Is very low output hence unlikely to to damage but will take for ever to put in enough charge for a start into a near flat battery.

 

To bring a battery up overnight needs at least a 4Amp charger, 6Amp or 8Amp will be quicker.

From time to time Aldi / Lidl have them for £15 or so.

 

A Draper 6amp charger

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-6A-Intelligent-Battery-Charger-Garage-Car-Workshop-6-12V-38254/122349508506

 

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The Draper 6A - is the latest equiv. of the  6A  BC1  (66806)  Draper Intelligent that I have ,  the Draper representative whom I contacted was non-commital when I enquired - just how 'intelligent' is it if left on extended periods ,  Q  what duration is too extended.  With arm-twisting he responded (24 hr. max. but without confidence, seemed just covering ass) best to change to a  BC2  (MASTER)  for trickle / maintenance -  maintenance meaning safe to leave connected for a indefinate period - such as a non-runner battery over winter months (fit-n-forget).  However as stated earlier (NB the originator set away two identical threads in error I  presume  ( this being the 2nd runner) I have had the BC2 early version with neon power on indicator and the present (improved version) without neon & they have both failed at the output wire entry to plastic case block.     The BC1 is quite a good charger - I use it to bulk tractor sized batteries that are low , presently I am using the RING charger as a maintainer (involving swopping over every few days).  I will try one of the Blackspur maintainers next as they are cheap £ and should be more than sufficient.  Actually - I have two new early BC2 I purchased for benched batteries - lost in garage  LoL

Edited by ruxy
edit. spelin
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btw.  These small electronic maintenance chargers for abt. £5 ,   my belief is that they were  OK in their day (probably 10 to 15 years ago).    To do the job of a "Float Charger"  for a stored battery.    However from my observations (over at least 10+ years) , they can't prevent the set-in of soft-sulphation  , and this is the beginning of the end.    Hence - my move over to a  RING  'Smart' charger (approx. £80) that does the lot including de-sulphation at float.    +  it has the best battery condition analyser  that is not top $.     It is a hard sulphated battery that is now the real problem - hence I am looking into buying a dedicated de-sulphator.

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