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Hutch3674

AEC Militant MKI (1966) 38EP19

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After an awesome 3 weeks at home I managed to make a start on the restoration of the Mighty Militant, removing 50 years of paint, and re applying some fresh Bonda prime, followed by a coat or two of Deep Bronze Green. I removed both foot steps on the front mudguards and the two light cluster housings, the dashboard and the supporting bracket. The engine cover was also removed, I managed to clean up and treat the immediate area behind the dashboard to save me the trouble of removing it at a later date.             

After 11 months of playing with the indicators I managed to rectify the problems, one bad earth and a new flasher unit, and a bit of help from HMVF Friends.20171226_090525.thumb.jpg.ce47596c306c84cc0eb03b209250c05a.jpg20171228_225327.thumb.jpg.434369f6bcfe2e2e1f1b5fe8dfd742ec.jpg

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I assume permission had been granted by the Domestic authorities before you entered the kitchen. 9_9

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I did ask if it would be OK due to the bad weather, and that I would line the worktop with an old towel before applying the shuttering ply. Bit Bl**dy cold in the shed.

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Posted (edited)

Another 7 wonderful days spent on the Mighty Militant, I managed to remove the two front wheels and the spare, split them down and had the wheels shot blasted, primed with BP and a nice finish of DBG, plus the two brake drums. I would like to have went deeper but time was against me. 

Removed 50 years worth of paint off the front left hand corner and primed it and covered it in DBG, took a few hours of work stripping paint with an old Black & Decker heat gun. Next time home I would like to get the four rear wheels and drums sorted, and if possible the front bumper off along with the tailgate, hoping I will be able to achieve this in good time I might be able to do another panel or two.

Still no ignition, just after I spent 11 months getting the indicators to flash, every day a new noise. I have the lights, cab interior light, horn, I'm thinking now my fault is between the Rubber block/distribution box and the dashboard as the rubber block & wiring behind the seat are in poor condition, I am hoping to by pass the armoured conduit and try this as a process of elimination. I am hopeful I will find my problem and have it rectified, and reward myself with a good 20 mile road run.

Hutch

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Edited by Hutch3674
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Love that instrument cluster looks really nice

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What's this switch all about?  I've not seen that on a Milly before, looks like an original fitment.  Good idea with the labels on each wire.

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I found that even with a brand new dashboard that the yellow labels on each wire the black lettering wore off very quickly if handled to much so I got a small printer (made by Brother Flee bay). Handy tool for all sorts. The indicator switch was I believe the same as the champ. Badly positioned on the Milly if you have long legs lol. I've broken one all ready.

Austin Champ Indicator switch (1).jpg

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After another awesome leave period I managed to get some more restoration work done, The rear four wheels were removed along with the brake drums, shot blasted and Bonda Primer added followed by a coat or two of Deep Bronze Green. I also managed to complete a panel on the front of the cab along with the radiator cowling. Several other items were removed for the shot blasters too; the worst being the tailgate which was a three man lift.

The brand new headlamp which was in the truck on purchase was finally fitted to replace the badly corroded one on the drivers side, with the remains of this I was able to restore the left hand one and after purchasing a set of headlamp inserts (Shiny bit) I was road worthy again. The indicators & four-ways are now fully operational after the best part of a years labors, so happy about this I made a video of them winking.

Along with the tailgate I was able to remove the springs and adjuster brackets, the refitting will be fun at a later stage methinks, as the tailgate was awfully heavy so I refitted the brackets a hole further up the slide to take a bit of weight whilst opening and closing it. A locally manufactured step ladder was also fitted to the tailgate to allow me to remove the tailgate pins when I am older.

Jerrycan holder & tool bin also got a clean up and a double coat of DBG. The two brackets in the drivers cab used for the tool boxes, the floor plates, drivers seat mount & floor plates along with the pedals also got a good clean up. 

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Used to drive these from n.yorks to larkhill towing a 5.5 gun,theywere gun tractors so slightly different,but we used yours as gun limbers.

It was slow progress to larkhill 27 mph 50 mph downhill,but we allways made it under our own steam.

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It's marvelous truck. The bronze green gloss paint is great. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

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2 hours ago, Murfster said:

Used to drive these from n.yorks to larkhill towing a 5.5 gun,theywere gun tractors so slightly different,but we used yours as gun limbers.

It was slow progress to larkhill 27 mph 50 mph downhill,but we allways made it under our own steam.

Purchased in County Carlow, I loved the 6 hours drive to Omagh...

 

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Just a quick question?

There are 4 of these (Dowel type) pins/studs in the two drive axles brake drums, any idea why they are different from the others? Each brake drum is secured by 3 studs with nuts and washers and one of these dowels per drum.

I need to get two made locally to complete the refurbishment of the rear axles/Brake drums. 

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I think that the reason for these studs is that if there were four plain bolts it would be possible to mount the wheel with the bolt heads not in the clearance holes in the wheel and the wheel still away fom the flange by the thickness of the bolt heads. With the single stud the wheel would be obviously not seated properly.

David

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