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justinb

stalwart clutch

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While replacing the knackered transfer box on our mk2 stolly I decided to check on the clutch plates ,

both really need changing as there's not much meat .left on them .

does anyone have any tips for aligning two clutch plates at the same time before refitting the gearbox /transfer box combo? 

it looks like the small tabs on the pressure plate had been left in well past the 1\2 wear stage ,is it worth refitting them ?

kind regards 

justin

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There should be no problem in getting them relined, have you tried ?

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28 minutes ago, Bob Grundy said:

There should be no problem in getting them relined, have you tried ?

hi bob .

i'll probably get two new ones from Richard Bannister but will reline them if he doesn't have any.

cheers 

justin

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2 hours ago, justinb said:

While replacing the knackered transfer box on our mk2 stolly I decided to check on the clutch plates ,

both really need changing as there's not much meat .left on them .

does anyone have any tips for aligning two clutch plates at the same time before refitting the gearbox /transfer box combo? 

it looks like the small tabs on the pressure plate had been left in well past the 1\2 wear stage ,is it worth refitting them ?

kind regards 

justin

Hi Justin,

If you can get them, I would advise to use the later ceramic lined clutch plates. These were an army supersession. They do not absorb moisture and tend not to stick like the normal plates and much long lasting. Richard Banister will know about these as I once overhauled the clutch in their Stalwart. The hook washers should be refitted and left in until the clutch beds in. Don't forget to check and adjust the clearance on the intermediate plate.

Re. the clutch aligning tool, use an old shaft, one from a Martian will be the same.

regards, Richard

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10 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

Hi Justin,

If you can get them, I would advise to use the later ceramic lined clutch plates. These were an army supersession. They do not absorb moisture and tend not to stick like the normal plates and much long lasting. Richard Banister will know about these as I once overhauled the clutch in their Stalwart. The hook washers should be refitted and left in until the clutch beds in. Don't forget to check and adjust the clearance on the intermediate plate.

Re. the clutch aligning tool, use an old shaft, one from a Martian will be the same.

regards, Richard

thanks Richard .

nothing like experienced knowledge over a manual.

i'll have a word with Richard bannister and request that type.

I don't have an old shaft so will have to make something up I think.

ill look up the adjustment details re the intermediate plate .

thanks again.

regards 

justin

 

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Hi Justin

The aligning tool we had in Workshops way back then, was a normal turned up shaft to slide through plates into spigot bearing but it had two splines attached at 180 degs and secured by small countersunk screws.

regards, Richard

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I got two plates off him recently Justin, very reasonable on price as ever. Richard is a hero for this sort of stuff!

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On ‎08‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 9:38 AM, Richard Farrant said:

Hi Justin

The aligning tool we had in Workshops way back then, was a normal turned up shaft to slide through plates into spigot bearing but it had two splines attached at 180 degs and secured by small countersunk screws.

regards, Richard

that's exactly what i'd designed in my head ,have ordered some keyway steel and round bar .

thanks again.

justin

22 hours ago, Lewis Garner said:

I got two plates off him recently Justin, very reasonable on price as ever. Richard is a hero for this sort of stuff!

yes not too bad at all ,I've ordered some new seals to go between the transfer box and the bevel boxes too

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Posted (edited)

change the seals in the outputs while your at it 5 minute job with it dismantled worth its weight in gold.

2014-09-17 174201-1122178.JPG

Edited by lowfat

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On ‎09‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 10:56 PM, lowfat said:

change the seals in the outputs while your at it 5 minute job with it dismantled worth its weight in gold.

2014-09-17 174201-1122178.JPG

three of mine are brand new already but i'll be checking the rest .

justin

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On ‎09‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 10:56 PM, lowfat said:

change the seals in the outputs while your at it 5 minute job with it dismantled worth its weight in gold.

2014-09-17 174201-1122178.JPG

is it possible to change the seals without removing the big nuts ?or would it be easier to just change the pinion unit complete as I already have some of each hand .

just discovered a leaking seal now I've put oil back in.

cheers

justin

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You have to undo the big nut 21/4 af springs to mind I bought a slogging spanner. Then rip out the seal they are generic so not difficult to get. 

The pinons aren’t hard to change 4 Allen bolts and some shims for the preload But are the seals hard in the new pinions?

Edited by lowfat

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