Aussie Posted October 1, 2017 Share Posted October 1, 2017 I reckon this Ferret is trying to tell me something, or drive me mad! It's also distracting me from the Saladin. Recored the radiator to fix the water leak, and cleaned petrol tank and pipes to fix the fuel blockage - all good... But now noticed oil under the left rear wheel. This is an old problem that I thought was a bevel box seal, but on closer inspection the oil is coming out through the hull, not the wheel station, and just running along the floor. I can't see where the oil is coming from. Might be an oil tank connection so I plan to take that out and see if it's the culprit. However, knowing my luck it will be the sump, etc, in which case the engine will have to come out. Assuming that's the case, what's the best way to remove it? EMER's say take out engine and gearbox together but others have suggested unbolting the engine from the gearbox and just taking the engine out. If this is the case, I presume the gearbox should be disconnected leaving the fly wheel attached to the engine? There is a lifting bracket at the rear but can't see one at the front - perhaps the slots at the sides of the flywheel housing (picture above)? Any guidance will be appreciated! Thanks James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcoregon Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Robin C has a good engine removal post on Mapleleaf site. Special fixture is necessary. New3c I can't see where the oil is coming from. Might be an oil tank connection so I plan to take that out and see if it's the culprit. However, knowing my luck it will be the sump, etc, in which case the engine will have to come out. Assuming that's the case, what's the best way to remove it? EMER's say take out engine and gearbox together but others have suggested unbolting the engine from the gearbox and just taking the engine out. If this is the case, I presume the gearbox should be disconnected leaving the fly wheel attached to the engine? There is a lifting bracket at the rear but can't see one at the front - perhaps the slots at the sides of the flywheel housing (picture above)? Any guidance will be appreciated! Thanks James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 If you have confirmed the oil is coming out of the hull and not from a wheel station, it could be coming from the engine, the fluid coupling, the gearbox, or the transfer case. Oil leaks tend to run to the rear of the hull so you should see oil puddled on the floor underneath the engine. Engine oil tends to be darker, whereas gearbox and transfer case oil is honey coloured. Fluid coupling oil may be very light if you are using the spec ISO 10 oil or red if it's ATF. We have 5 Ferrets and I haven't seen any leak from the engine sump, probably because these are dry sump setups. We have one leaking engine oil from the exhaust valve cover on the RHS of the crankcase and one from the valve cover. We haven't attempted to repair these yet. Both repairs look fairly easy with the engine in place. One Ferret has a bad leak from the lip seal sealing a rear driveshaft where it enters the transfer case. It looks like this will require removing the transfer case to repair. Best way to determine the source of a bad leak is to see which component needs topped up most often. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 I'd be checking your oil levels to work out where it's coming from, before anything else. Get some on your fingers; 90W is very thick, 30w is reasonable and the 10W or ATF is very thin, that should narrow it down a bit. Are you certain that it's not coming from a bevel box though? Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimland74 Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 And smell the oil. OEP220-type oils will have a much stronger smell than engine oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Posted October 14, 2017 Author Share Posted October 14, 2017 Pulled the engine and transmission out with fork lift and chains. Main pain was removing the stuff in the fighting compartment to get at the bits needing uncoupling but really not too bad. Hull was pretty grotty, of course, but cleaned and painted and now looking nice again! Having the engine out it then became clear after a steam clean that the only oil leak was from the generator. First thought the lower oil pipe junction but oil was running down from higher, i.e. the central seal. Filled it with oil but couldn't make the bloody thing leak, however I'm pretty sure that is the culprit and expect it would leak if the engine was running and oil pumping through it, so replaced the seal. No signs of leaks anywhere else... Discovered the left steady plate had been cut off, leaving the upper bit with the bushes, so now cutting another bit to weld to that. Will take some pics tomorrow as another poster was after the dimensions Still have the problem of no mounting plates for the petrol tank, and think I'll put in an electric fuel pump while I'm at it, so still a bit to do. All good fun! James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 has anyone thought about turbocharging one of these engines? or is " Original" the only way? just thinking about better efficiency and more power. could also convert to fuel injection as well ... hmmm cheers Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamber Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 On 05/03/2018 at 1:33 AM, Ted said: has anyone thought about turbocharging one of these engines? or is " Original" the only way? just thinking about better efficiency and more power. Now, this is just a thought from someone with no experience of a Ferret, but... I would have to wonder if the gains would be worth the extra heat, complexity, and stress on the engine. Heat very quickly becomes a problem on a significant number of vehicles modified by turbo or supercharging, even when they're not as heavy and covered in armour plate! And that's even before getting into the question of space limitations within the engine bay. And if you did get a worthwhile increase in power, that's putting more stress on the rest of the drive-train. (etc etc) On 05/03/2018 at 1:33 AM, Ted said: could also convert to fuel injection as well ... hmmm Fuel injection is within the realm of possibility, and I am admittedly a fan of it (When it's not a locked up, un-diagnosable black box, anyway...), but again I'd wonder about the value of the gains one might see from that conversion. Perhaps if you're using a Ferret as a daily driver, you could eke out a bit more fuel efficiency? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiketheBike Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 And would surely invalidate your warranty. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Yes I would handle the heat very easily with a killer chiller, that uses an AC unit to pump the fluid through a box as such to chill water to below zero, i would use a air to water chiller, have one here in stock to handle this, then i would use a stand alone AC unit, as we all know none were fitted for the player comfort. I think its very do-able, ive just installed my killer chiller on my supercharged AMG and its amazing, I'm seeing an extra 50hp, and decreasing the stress on my engine, I also have water methanol injection on my other 6 ton 4wd diesel, that takes 150 degrees out of the exhaust temp, and removes heat as it turns to steam in the combustion chamber. Keeps the internals very clean as well. Id imagine these engines are built pretty tough, being all steel and super heavy duty, the compression being kept low so poor quality fuel can be used, does anyone have any internal pictures of cylinder bore or the bottom end that i can see, how many bolts are on the main caps etc, If i can get mine working well and increase the power and fuel efficiency Id be happy to share with everyone. cheers Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 11 hours ago, Tamber said: Now, this is just a thought from someone with no experience of a Ferret, but... I would have to wonder if the gains would be worth the extra heat, complexity, and stress on the engine. Heat very quickly becomes a problem on a significant number of vehicles modified by turbo or supercharging, even when they're not as heavy and covered in armour plate! And that's even before getting into the question of space limitations within the engine bay. And if you did get a worthwhile increase in power, that's putting more stress on the rest of the drive-train. (etc etc) Fuel injection is within the realm of possibility, and I am admittedly a fan of it (When it's not a locked up, un-diagnosable black box, anyway...), but again I'd wonder about the value of the gains one might see from that conversion. Perhaps if you're using a Ferret as a daily driver, you could eke out a bit more fuel efficiency? have a look at the holley sniper, http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/612787 these are closed loop and self tuning, based on O2 sensor and a few other parameters ... very neat set up, and will take away the " averages " that carbs are built from. combining that with a turbo/air to water inter-cooler and killer chiller, we will have a safer and far better tuned engine, you can link the wast gate to boost controller so this 6.5:1 compression engine will easily see big gains in power and efficiency without overly stressing the engine or drive train components, providing you don't try and drag race it or do too many burnouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexton Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 (edited) Oh, come on. Off road, the stock engine in good condition motors right along, with the suspension doing a great job handling four tons of bouncing steel. On road, the stock brakes and really poor visibility really limit top speed. And people who swap out carbs for fuel injection on this old stuff just don't know how to tune carbs. A Cummins 5.9 swap, a la CVRT, now you're talking. Malcolm Edited March 9, 2018 by sexton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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