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Jolley electronic ignition


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If you have a B series Rolls Royce

 

DON'T DELAY BUY THE BLOODY KIT TODAY.

 

It is good, easy to fit and it does what it says on the box.

 

Fitted mine yesterday, smooth tickover, clean pickup and response.

 

Clive thank you for keeping on to me :whistle:

 

PAUL yes PAUL you know who you are ! stand up there boy and don't slouch, and take that stupid grin off your face :roll:

Get the kit GET THE KIT

 

HF :-D :-D :-D :-D :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

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Ouch :schocked:

 

 

Yes I agree, it was a big step that took a long time to take. What held me back for so long was not being able to see what I was buying even when he had a stall at Malvern it was only a general purpose leaflet. The purpose of my postings with pictures was to help people see what they were getting.

 

Expensive yes, but what price efficiency & reliability? What price a roadside breakdown or a breakdown on a motorway or the dreaded one moving into the middlelane of a motorway :shake:

 

On that basis I have fitted one on pig & hornet.

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Did you reduce the rotor arm thickness by approx 1/16"? As the magnet cap raises the arm up by this amount.

 

 

Nope. But I found it silly & pointless to provide 2 new bolts for the base plate which were 2mm too long. I just used the originals.

 

I have kept the plug gaps as before. I followed the advice & really opened them up but found there were starting problems esp when the engine was very hot.

 

Also suggested was removing the BST lead to stop the ballast resistor from being shorted out on start up as now there was such a good spark. I have abandoned this as I found that when starting after some days & maybe because my batteries are not that wonderful, that I needed all the volts I could get to get ignition. The batteries take a hell of a current & drops the volts quite a bit on these not so wonderful batteries.

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  • 1 year later...

Does anyone have any experience of using these on 6 volt systems?

 

Because my Carrier is run so infrequently I find that I have to clean the points every time I want to start it. Consequently to save this hassle I decided to purchased one of these kits which on my vehicle refused to produce a spark.

 

Frank does talk about in his instructions that if the coil or starter motor are taking too much power there may not be enough yet to energise the module, but does anyone else have this problem?

 

The silly thing is after a clean of the points it normally starts first time.

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Ahh Mr Ferret! I have arrived as summoned!

 

I have the kit on the shopping list! along with a full exhaust system...

 

But at the minute im saving for my own flat, so that needs to come first! somewhere with parking! so the Pig and Landdy have a nice close place to me and ease to be worked on!

 

Glad it works! ill let you know how i get on :)

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Guest catweazle (Banned Member)

I have thought about this for a while,even had discusion with clive,even melted a coil out of its tin to hide a new one in,i havnt bit the bullet as yet because my champ usually starts ok as long as batterys are good.It averages 15/20mpg.it has top speed over the limit.I regulary check it on the gas analiser,and nothing changes.I think the electronic ign will make a poor runner better ,i think its better to spend the money on the bits and pieces to make it run ok on its normal system,once that is done then buy it if you wish.I had lumenition on my range rover and took it from car to car it was very reliable,

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Guest catweazle (Banned Member)
I've also given this some thought for both the champ and E type and would agree with CW get running ok on the standard system then may be spend some money but I'm not convinced to part with £400.00 or so

Me neither not for a thousand miles a year.:-D

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Does anyone have any experience of using these on 6 volt systems?

 

Because my Carrier is run so infrequently I find that I have to clean the points every time I want to start it. Consequently to save this hassle I decided to purchased one of these kits which on my vehicle refused to produce a spark.

 

Frank does talk about in his instructions that if the coil or starter motor are taking too much power there may not be enough yet to energise the module, but does anyone else have this problem?

 

The silly thing is after a clean of the points it normally starts first time.

 

Neil,

 

That is interesting that you have had trouble with one of these kits on a 6 volt Ford V8. A friend fitted one to his Ford CMP, also 6 volt.......no spark :-(. After checking it over for him , I found that by setting the kit up on the bench with a spark plug and coil, it would spark, put it back on the engine, and no spark,. Unfortunatley he had no starting handle, because I suspected the battery did not have enough power and starter was absorbing so much current, the coil did not have enough. He contact the maker and no real help. In the end the kit was taken off and points refitted. Trouble with the vehicle was that the battery box is not big enough for a greater amp/hr battery. The battery was perfectly alright when on conventional points set up, but would refuse to start on electronic ignition.

 

I fitted a kit to an Austin K2 ambulance and was greatly impressed with its starting and running. I drove it down the road with the normal driver alongside, he said it had never gone so well. A few days later, on their way to a show, the engine stopped abruptly after about 4 miles......the rotor arm had gone to earth, no warning. After renewing the arm it is OK now. This is one thing that worries me, the greater HT voltage might tend to find or create problems with rotors and dist. caps, which on some older vehicles, are getting harder to find.

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Hello,

I've fitted one of these to the bedford. I was simple enough to fit, and the inprovement was instantly noticeable. It'll pull off in third gear on the flat and the extra power up the hills is one crunch less!! From a cold start it fires up in half a turn. But the rotor arm went soon after i fitted it, at the time i put it down to the rotor arm being old, and the first time i'd removed it from the dissy, it was a bit stiff and i thought i may have twisted it and cracked it. but from what richard says it may well be down to the kit.

Would it be fair to say, that if it finds a way to earth with the kit on it would only be a matter of time till it went under normal conditions?

 

The coil packed up at the same time as the rotor arm, i had a new one from jolley (not the high power one) which broke as i fitted it, so i put a standard coil on which has worked fine since. bearing in mind i haven't done a thousand miles since it's been on, probably less than 500.

My experiances with burnt out points and condensers on the bedfords made me think this might be a more reliable alternative. My dads oxd had a habit of blowing the condensers just as it was going dark!! the rac came out to us once after we'd tried the three condensers in the kit and he fitted a lada one which worked fine, untill the bearings in the dissy played up!! again i think with the jolley kit this would be solved and excess play won't stop it functioning untill they collapse all together.

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The 6 volt units work fine with an impressive jump in performance on Jimmies and that lump ain't far off a Bedford. I've done 2500 miles in my 1942 Dodge WC 51 since fitting one and it's superb. It has been converted to 12 volt. I have to admit when I took the unit out of the box I thought Hmmm I've just been ripped off. Half an hour and I e mailed Frank Jolley to say the performance was brilliant since fitting it. On the Dodge I set the advance at 7 degrees before TDC and the plugs (NGK B6BS) at 50 thou'. It was all set up on a Crypton Tuner in our workshop. The immissions were not far off a modern car and the idle can be turned down to 250 RPM!! Floor the throttle and the pick up is instant. The 'Dodge cough' is a thing of the past. Fuel consumption on a 75 mile run was 16mpg at 45 MPH. Even the transmission is quiter (not a lot) because the engine runs smoother so it isn't shaking the guts out the gearbox. I am a 100% convert. We have a couple of j**p owners and a Jimmy that want them fitting and setting up on the Crypton. It does just what it say's on the box. Just like Ronseal and cyanide! I should be on commission for this.

 

Phil P.

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Hello,

I've fitted one of these to the bedford.

But the rotor arm went soon after i fitted it, at the time i put it down to the rotor arm being old, and the first time i'd removed it from the dissy, it was a bit stiff and i thought i may have twisted it and cracked it. but from what richard says it may well be down to the kit.

Would it be fair to say, that if it finds a way to earth with the kit on it would only be a matter of time till it went under normal conditions?

 

 

Hi Rippo,

 

I think it is probably wise to fit a new rotor arm and cap when you fit a kit, if they look at all aged, cracked or a loose rotor arm. The response to the throttle is amazing, previous hesitation is now known to have been distributor and not carb, as it dissapeared with the kit fitted.

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