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Hair Bear

Range Rover advice please

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Thanks for the link to the club, I'll have to investigate.

Having reread the last few posts, is a flat or low battery enough to cause an srs fault? I know it's not the same class of machine but I have a solar battery keeper on my quad which works very well and wondering if once I have the problem sorted a similar approach would be advisable.

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Normally - no. Probably not the answer you were looking for! A low/flat battery will usually cause one or more of the following:

 

  1. Loss of radio code memory - you will need to re-enter the security code when you have it running.
  2. Loss of seat position memory.
  3. Loss of setting memory for the windows resulting in xx window not set messages on the display
  4. Loss of synch between the key fob and car requiring you to re-enter the EKA code in via the drivers door lock.

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To quote Snoopy... Rats!

T'was just an idle thought. Oddly enough, the radio and the key worked fine after two years of no battery.

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The early srs system as it uses resistors in the harness to check for brakes or shorts.

The computer monitors the cables and is expecting to see specific resistances to high and it fails to low and it fails .

A duff battery could possibly affect this monitoring I guess.

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Well, here we are, a month later and I still haven't got it home yet! I am in the process of compiling a list of things that will want / need doing and associated possible costs. Ooerr.

While waiting to get it home I have been running it  around the fields and looking for problems and one that has me thinking is the 'Low Range' doesn't work. I'm told by the previous owner that it has never worked and the fault was the  selector motor was probably stuck. When you press the low range button, it lights up, the dash shows 'engage neutral', then after a few seconds the switch light goes out. Having looked around the net, that would suggest the neutral switch is duff. I've tried holding the stick hard to left or right, or engaging reverse, which was suggested on one site but no luck. So  before I change the switch, I'm thinking that bridging the wires on the switch would at least eliminate that symptom - so what would the dash say then if the motor was still stuck? If it all works ok is there a click, whirr, clunk, or fanfare? If transfer then sticks in neutral is there a manual way of selecting anything just to make it move? I'm not going to be looking at much underneath it at it's current location though as I'd rather wait and work on a paved surface than in several inches of, well, let's call it mud!

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I presume your car is a manual.

As my low range is controlled by the gear stick its an auto with no button to push.

Either way all you have is a motor on the rear of the transfer case which moves the box in to low or high gear you can take the motor off and do it manually if you want.

it has another position, Neutral for towing it with all 4 wheels on the ground. You put a fuse into position 7 I seem to remember 

under the drivers seat and goes to neutral.

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The other key word here is MUD! I had problems with one doing this that had been used in off road trailling . So much dirt had built up and set solid that the whole thing was jammed solid, a good long jet wash cured the problem. 

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I'm glad you mentioned a jet wash. Are there any areas underneath that are best avoided?

The nearest this one has come to offroading is occasional trips across grass fields or tackling the farm drive.

I guess a quick test would be to put a fuse in 71, then if it doesn't drive the motor is working so the fault is the neutral switch - or is that too simple?

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its called transfer neutral and its fuse 11 sorry my mistake. the message should come on the dashbord

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Hi, had a spare few minutes today so stuck a fuse in slot 11. 'transfer neutral' came up on the dash but put it in gear and it still moved so it would appear the selector motor/mechanism is suspect.

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put the air suspension on high put a block  or the jack to protect you and check the plug .

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If jacking up - don't forget to open the tailgate and put the hazards on - stops the height sensors getting screwed up apparently.

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Would that be the plug on the actuator?

I like the idea of tail open, hazards on, does this need to be done at kwik-fit?

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If you open a door,bonnet or tailgate it stops the air suspension self leveling. The car with all doors etc closed will automatically check for level then let air out to remain level. Its a bugger if you have a leak in one bag as the car ends up on its bump stops.

Its more convenient to open the top tail gate to disable this feature while you work on the car.

Just check the plug is connected on. have a look at this thread

 

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/p38-select-neutral-message.42968/

Edited by lowfat

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On 27/08/2017 at 5:08 PM, Tony B said:

 

ABS will stay on till you reach 15mph. Driver's window not set, there is a procedure in hand book for clearing that Air Bag and SRS lights check wiring under seats, known fault on Range Rover and Discovery, often when the passenger seat is moved after being set for a while. Headlight wash wipe, not unless MOT inspector thinks your from Ministry, though if fitted they should work.

I have the same problem with the drivers seat , move it and the SRS /Airbag light comes on ................ grab the yellow covered wire under the seat and wiggle the plug ...........that cures it :) .The front window, take it the bottom hold the button  for a few seconds ,send it back up and it resets itself .

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Thanks for the link, lots to think about while I wait for it's arrival. Managed to get the To Do list down to one page but that was partly by making the font smaller!

Edited by Hair Bear

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An idle thought, I tried putting a fuse in slot 11 and nothing obvious happened. So, can it do any damage if i put the fuse in slot 11 then get undeneath and try the connectors and actuator etc. to see if there is any sudden wirring noises or other hopeful goings on?

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the worst that can happen is it comes out of drive andit wont go back.

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Still haven't got the beastie home yet so I'm not making much progress, just picking off the easy to fix faults and buzzing around the farm getting in everyones way.

I was moving it across the yard yesterday when the rev counter packed up. Didn't really have time to look at it but when I shut the door it started working again, obviously a loose wire somewhere. Anyway, later in the evening I slammed the door, the rev counter died and being dark I noticed all the dash lights went out as well, so thumped the dash and it all came back on. After a bit of rummaging I found a multi plug under the clocks which was the source of the issue and may have been a little loose. It felt like it clicked back in to place and seems to have solved the problem soo,,, the question is if this plug had been loose for a while would a momentary loss of connection to the dash lights including the SRS light have been enough to bring up the airbag fault?

I've not had anyone out to read the codes and clear the faults as it will be easier to do when it's on the drive and not in copious amounts of 'mud', but I have since discovered that the SRS light was the only reason for it being laid up. When the MOT was due no one could be bothered to get it looked at!

On a slightly different tack, do you HAVE to remove the manifold to get to the glowplugs, or is it just easier?

Thanks.

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