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29 minutes ago, PB1954RNS said:

Hi. As requested the wiring diagram for the Albion in two parts. The lorry has stood outside for many a good few years, so I don't know if the weather has corroded any of the wiring or terminals.011.thumb.JPG.e281c12fe0fff9318ec7c64b07021069.JPG012.thumb.JPG.bf0ebc1a3b3e99aa1fac40c2d40c5a48.JPG Any thoughts or suggestions welcome.

Cheers.

P.B

On 10/11/2017 at 7:20 PM, PB1954RNS said:

Hi. It's on my list to get a multimeter and will be checking out various web sites to get one. As for the problem well it's from the control board upwards, I have taken the cover off to check the wiring but all seems okay. Could something electrical in the control board be stuck, burnt out or just being very awkward.. I want to try and get this out before buying a new control board, it could something so simple.........

PB.

Hi thanks for the diagram 

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On 10/11/2017 at 7:20 PM, PB1954RNS said:

Hi. It's on my list to get a multimeter and will be checking out various web sites to get one. As for the problem well it's from the control board upwards, I have taken the cover off to check the wiring but all seems okay. Could something electrical in the control board be stuck, burnt out or just being very awkward.. I want to try and get this out before buying a new control board, it could something so simple.........

PB.

 Hi thanks for the diagram, it may seem boring I’d suggest when you get a multiemeter check the continuity of each of the wires in the loom. You will soon get a feel for the condition of the wiring loom, if you just want to have the engine running make an independent loom just for that. Satisfy yourself you have a good engine then continue with the wiring continuity checks till everything is working as expected  

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Hi. Many thanks for your reply - on checking the wiring around the control board there is a combination of old and new wiring  installed.

Will check it all over again and have now ordered a multimeter to try and get this problem sorted.

Many Thanks 

P.B

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On 13/11/2017 at 7:13 PM, PB1954RNS said:

Hi. Many thanks for your reply - on checking the wiring around the control board there is a combination of old and new wiring  installed.

Will check it all over again and have now ordered a multimeter to try and get this problem sorted.

Many Thanks 

P.B

Let us know how you are

 

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Hi. Not been able to do much due to weather - cold or wet. When it has been able to work on the lorry , I have been checking over wires that I did disconnect and cleaning up the faces of of the connectors. The one main problem and I have always had doubts over is the switch box on the instrument panel, this did have water in it during its time outside. I did strip it down and clean it up , replaced the ignition spindle in the ON/OFF switch, but feel that this might be a problem and need replacing subject to getting a replacement.

Being mechanically minded and not being electrically up to scratch - I having a few trial runs with the meter before diving in to start and check the circuits .

History Note.

The half Albion at the start of this blog still in the scrap yard , I have the details of it.    L5333019 , Chassis No 52521F, Reg No 18YX62  and sold from C.V.D Ashchurch on 09/09/59.

 

Will keep you informed as I progress.

Cheers.

Paul Burns.

Edited by PB1954RNS
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Glad you managed to get the folding boat book - sorry for the belated post I missed your update about it the first time around. Do you have a target date in mind? Would you be taking the BY5 to any of the military shows? This would look great at War and Peace with the boats semi unloaded and the truck stocked with ropes and other engineering kit.

Keep up the good work!

All the best,

Andy

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Hi Andy. No worries about the book many thanks for letting know about it and it is sat in my collection of books about Albion BY lorries. I'm hoping to get it moving around again in the summer subject to fixing some large and extra large problems!. The main problem is the weather as I have to work outside on it.

The equipment is slowly being replaced as I find it and I still have to call in to the R.E Museum to measure up the boat. Main spending is the last two new tyres as the costs for the tyres, flaps and inner tubes cost just under £600, so hitting EBay to sell off bits and bobs.

I have managed to grease up the wire lifting cables as the cables are a bit dry, after a few windings up and down are well covered. Still trying to sort out the wiring problem and get the engine running again.

Will update as I sort things out.

Paul Burns.

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Hi. Just a catch up on the wiring situation on the lorry.  After doing some domestic jobs around the house I did manage to get out and start to check the wiring with the multimeter. I did find two circuits that were dead -

A)  Wire from the Ignition Coil back to the Switch Box.     B) From the Fuse Box up to the Switch Box which controls the lights.

So its going to be the case of checking the wiring that I removed when I took the Switch Box out and check to see that it has been wired up correctly., or to what I think could be the real cause of the problem is the water damage that I found when taking it apart.   I shall have another go and try to clean it up again.

I don't know if there are any companies who can service the Switch Box out there, if any one knows of a company then please let me know . The other alternative  is to try and find another one in a better condition, but so far have not seen one for 12 volt system.

The Fuse Box is the original one and has the wire fuse on a type of card that fits into spring clamps and I want to get some spare fuses, any help welcome  - I'm away for a couple of days and will post a photo of the type needed.

Cheers.

Paul Burns.

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Occasionally the combined light/ignition switch unit comes up on ebay they are usually the post war version the difference being one rivet on the face and a plastic bezel on the ignition light otherwise it's exactly the same unit you could also put a wanted add in the for sale/wanted forum here on HMVF  

Providing you are sure you don't have any shorts to ground on any part of the wiring system you can always hot wire the coil to get the truck running if that is just the object of the exercise ( disconnect the wire from switch to coil and replace it with a wire from the + terminal of the battery directly to the terminal you have just disconnected ie ignition switch side of the coil ) check for a spark at your distributor points and your good to go providing your plug leads are OK of course.  If you are unsure about a short to ground on any other wiring runs you may like to disconnect the wires from D+ andon the rear of the combined switch unit  before you connect the battery main cables.

Pete

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Hi Pete. Many thanks for your help and advice about the wiring, to be honest I want to sort out both issues,. to get the engine running and to sort out the electrical problems at the same time. I'm away for a few days but when back I want to go over and check all the connections as the first stage and then move on to the next one.

I do need to get a replacement switch box as this will put my mind at rest, at the moment it's like a itch you cannot scratch and will feel better about it with a replacement.

Thanks for the info on post war switch box and will keep a check on ebay and will put a wanted ad on this site.

Cheers.

Paul Burns.

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Hi.I have put a wanted ad on this site to see if any one can help me out with a C.A.V 12 volt switch box to replace the one on the Albion that has suffered water damage due to being stored outside for a few years. I have put a photo of a switch box as shown in the workshop manual, if any one can help with any of the parts as shown in the diagram then please let me know as they would be most welcome. They can be big or small and if I can make one good one out of spare parts all the better.

Just to wish all vehicle restorers  seasons greetings .

Cheers.

Paul Buirns

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Edited by PB1954RNS

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Hi. Just a quick update for the start of the new year. I spent some time between Christmas and New Year hiding from the surplus turkey and Christmas pudding in the shed making up the steel latches for the side locker. This is one of those small jobs that has been on the 'To Do' list for some time now and with the weather working against me to work on the Albion outside this was a good time to make them up..

Also cutting out the leather parts for making up the gaiters for the axles putting them into store ready to when they are need to be fitted..

Also many thanks to mark for letting have a spare switch box, this will be fitted as soon as the weather changes. I have double checked the wiring and all the electrical boxes and switches for any loose or dirty connections. I hope by fitting the new box this will cure the lack of supply to the coil and lights.

Paul Burns.

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Hi . It's been a long time since an up date but with the lorry parked outside and battling rain and snow it's not been very good to work on it. I did manage to get underneath it and drain out the middle axle  and found a sticky brown tar fell out of the axle and into the bucket. I left this to slowly drain out for a couple of days and then left it for another day just to be sure.

The rear axle as you might know, the rear diff was taken out in the scrap yard and this included the axle drain plug. Having checked the web sites for a foundry, there was one not far from where I lived, so the plan was to use the original one to cast another one off and get it machined. As you can see from the photos not a great success but took it over to a machine shop and see what they could do with it - nothing - it was cast to size and below and ended up as a £20 paperweight.

Plan B  just have one machined out of bar instead. The cost was £60 but did a good job and they got the threads correct which are 1-3/16" BSF. Checked to find a tap to clean up the threads but not able to find one , so cleaned up the threads with a wire brush and with the threads coated in grease slowly wound the plug it in , stopping after a full turn and wound it out checking the threads for any damage. But slowly but sure it to the top, it was then removed so that I could clean out the axle of rust.

I did clean out about a pound of rust and to make sure it was clean, I removed the oil filler and found this was solid with rust. This and the filler lid have been cleaned up and given a coat of Red Oxide and will be ready for a white undercoat. When replaced the axle will be filled with oil to protect the half shafts as they are not doing any thing but turning in the oil.

Right, on other blogs, it has been brought up about pyramid nosing - I'm looking for 2 foot of 35 mm x 5 mm. I can only buy it in 3 meter length which is too much for the job I want it for. So would any one have a spare piece that they no longer require and can I buy it from you.

I have tried fab workshops - they don't know what it is or can not help.

Cheers.

Paul Burns.

 

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Have you got a local body builder to try for pyramid tread?

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Not tried that route at all - will give it a go, also will try to expand trying Fab / stair making companies for off cuts. If no luck will have to buy a 3 meter strip as I want to finish off this out standing job.

P.B

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Hi.. Time for bit of a update on the Albion.

Rear Axles: They have now fresh oil in them  and a full repaint, now just to sort out the leather gaiters with fitting them back on.

The Torque Rods were sized and had to be freed up and I have to fit new leather covers on them to protect the ball joint . 

Chassis: Having been working underneath, I found areas of rust on the body work and chassis rails which needed urgent attention , so this has had to move up the list of to do jobs. Also it has also given me the chance to clean off all the muck it has  built up over the years it was left out in the farm yard. Another job that again moved up the list is the amount of holes in the bodywork and chassis that have not been drilled out, holes out of alignment, bolts not fitted, bolts fitted but no nuts on them, so all of this has been corrected.

Electrics: With the monsoon season over, hopefully for a few days to allow me to have a look at them again. I did get a replacement switch box and decided to replace it. All the wires were marked with the letter on the switch box that they should fit.  Wiring diagram double checked and the switch box refitted. The oil gauge had to be removed from the panel and when I have spun the engine over, there is no movement of the needle on the gauge. So on checking it found that it was no longer of any use so I need to get a Smiths 0-100lbs, type X.53580/17 - any one help with a working spare they don't need or where I can get a replacement. The old gauge was refitted just to act as a plug to stop the oil from coming out.

So all wiring checked and a quick double check on the wiring again, the battery came out of the garage, fitted in the Drivers tool box , leads fitted,  quick prayer  to the small god of vehicle restoration and turned the side lights on - bingo yes they are on, main headlight on - bingo yes it is on. The first time I tried,IMG_0966.thumb.JPG.788d51a3f2b4b29a34a726e4c124c219.JPGIMG_0967.thumb.JPG.9ef1af8908d4b094b1fd82b6ea2677df.JPGIMG_0968.thumb.JPG.b0c127cad99befc5c55348771be168bc.JPGIMG_0969.thumb.JPG.5ddaa1179cda8a1983e771a1fd87b8a0.JPG this circuit wasn't working and running the meter over the ignition circuit again 100% working.  The problem was that the switch box that had been full of water over the years had taken it's toll on the connections inside. What next - well the watering can came out, spare petrol and check the engine oil level  and  to see if I could fire it up. First thing was to fill the rad up  and listen to the water filling up the the block and the rad and I started to wonder why my feet were getting wet!

The rad had a leak in one of the coils right in the middle of the 3 rows of coils - silent scream - and it's about 6" up from the bottom.  If you look at the last photo you can see it - look at the rivet and move to your left you can see a spiders strand and you can see the water coming out.  So I'm looking for a cheap fix,  any one recommend any rad leak fixing fluid  to fix the leak and make it last until it gets a full strip down and get the rad fixed.

Cheers.

PB.

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You could carefully trim the fins from the leaking tube dry it off and solder the split closed or for a short term bodge use something like "Wonder Weld" bodged on the outside of the tube.  For the capacity of your rad you would need so much miracle jolop poured in the top it would not be cost effective.

Pete

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Hi. Thanks for your comments about the work so far. 

Pete. Thanks for your input about the rad, I have got some metal stick which is to stop leak's but it's just trying to get the paste around the leak. It's the middle tube and I wasn't going to remove the rad if I could,. I have had a look on web sites for rad leaks on HGV's and found some liquid fixer for £40 a can. But not sure what a modern HGV water capacity is as the Albion is 5 3/4 gallons.

Cheers.

Paul Burns.

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Some time ago I bought some leak sealer intended for central heating systems. It was about £17 for one litre (yes, I know I was crazy to pay that) and about the consistancy of milk. When pouring it in I realised that it was actually very watered down PVA adhesive ! The smell is quite distinctive.

Some time later my forklift started to loose coolant to an anoying extent. It was from the huge number of hose connections relating to the gas vaporiser. I tried dismantling, cleaning, carefull reassembly but it continued to leak. So I tipped in about a cup full of ordinary general purpose B&Q PVA glue. Instant result, no leak and been ok for two years now. Any PVA that is not blocking the leaks is very much disolved and has not caused any noticable problems. There are no new deposites visible through the filler neck and I will definitely do this again if need be.

David

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Hi. Many thanks for the help and I will give your idea a try to stop the leak. It's not that I don't to spend the money and time getting it repaired but I just want to use for a couple of years and have some fun with it. I want to find a workshop when the time is up and strip it down to the bear bones and rebuild it as factory fresh.

To Match Fuzee - sorry I missed your message about the gauge , but will still keep looking for one.

Cheers .

Paul Burns.

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