Crossley IGL 3

[smiffy]

The clutch brake is pivoted on a eccentric pin to allow for adjustment . I machined up  a suitable pin and fitted a bushed sleeve to the end of the clutch brake . This is a very tight fit in the chassis .

It looks like an after thought as the is very little clearance between the cross member and clutch disc on the gearbox input shaft  . I need to find a suitable piece of friction material to line the brake with and that will be another job done

[smiffy]

I ordered  a meter of 6 inch wide balata belt to make a new fabric drive disc . The first step was to cut 3 discs and glue them together . I then mounted them on a face plate and machined them to a nominal 6 inch disc , not easy to machine but ended up with something that is near enough round.

I cut out 12 reinforcing plates and marked and drilled the 6 holes . Next job is to make the rivets to hold the plates in place 

It should work ok and a lot cheaper than the quote that I had of over £300 per coupling to have new ones made to original spec 

[Scrunt & Farthing]

8 hours ago, smiffy said:

I ordered  a meter of 6 inch wide balata belt to make a new fabric drive disc . The first step was to cut 3 discs and glue them together .

Nice work there, Smiffy.  And exactly the job I have to do on my Leyland at some point.  what glue did you use, and was the Balata belt to any particular spec.?

Thanks, Dave.   S&F

[smiffy]

1 hour ago, Scrunt & Farthing said:

Nice work there, Smiffy.  And exactly the job I have to do on my Leyland at some point.  what glue did you use, and was the Balata belt to any particular spec.?

Thanks, Dave.   S&F

The balata belting came from https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Flat-belting/   They only do belting up to 6 inches wide so that had to do ,I could really have done with some 6.5 inch material .

The other alternative would be canvas reinforced  conveyor belting . Years ago I would have had something suitable in the yard  but all long since gone  Since moving  a few years ago I no longer have any contacts in the quarrying  industry

Its almost impossible to get access to such places to ask for any second hand material .The same as scrap yards .

I used Gorilla glue as its what I had .Hopefully the reverted plates will hold it all together  

I do have some larger drive discs what size PCD do you need   Mike

 

 

[Scrunt & Farthing]

9 hours ago, smiffy said:

I do have some larger drive discs what size PCD do you need   Mike

 

Thanks Smiffy,  I just measured mine and they are 6 inch dia and 11.25 in diameter.  Oddly, the parts list shows the two coupling should be the same size (Leyland SQ), o maybe i have a cuckoo.  More research needed, but your technique is most interesting.  Cheers, Dave

Edited March 15, 2020 by Scrunt & Farthing

[smiffy]

Riveting  the plates on was a bit difficult as the rivets bent into the softer balata instead of forming heads at each end . I made the rivets out of 10 gauge gas welding rod .

The whole drive shaft is a very tight fit but it is in place  Next job will be too make bolts to the correct length and make some castle nuts 

Then I will have to dismantle for a clean up and sort the paint out . 

Dave if you let me know the PCD of the bolt holes I will see what I have .  11 inch disc seems rather large  . My dics are 4.5 pcd of the bolt holes and 6 inch od

[smiffy]

Next job on the gear box is the pto . Originally it would have been fitted with a pto driven compressor this is long gone but I do have a pto out put shaft  and a suitable period hydraulic pump.

After being sold this truck worked in a quarry and was possible fitted with a hydraulic tipping body . 

 The pump I have was still bolted to the chassis but every thing else had gone

Today I rebuilt the pto ready for refitting

The main shaft which runs in plain bearings was well worn so I machined it and made new bearings 

To save making a mandrel to machine the od of the bearing I bored it to size and the used  locktight to hold it on the shaft to machine it to size. Then warmed it up to break the lock tight .

Pressed the bearings into the housing  , made new gaskets and fitted the end plate. 

The  shaft is sealed by a stuffing box  . so had to raid the box of graphite packing and chose some graphite rope that was small enough to fit in the box and fitted the gland nut .

Does anyone knows of a suitable period hydraulic ram for a tipping body ?

I will make a suitable tipping body when time permits 

[smiffy]

Fitted the pto and started on repairing the hydraulic pump.

The pump body and reservoir is a  aluminum casting . It had 4 corner  flanges for mounting it , 3 of these are broken 

I cut a suitable piece of plate and welded it to one corner as a trial 

The aluminum welded ok but needed a lot more amps than I would normally use for a repair like this   I had to resharpen the electrode several time due to impurities coming out of the original aluminum

The pump bodies and delivery valves are bronze with a total weight of 28 lbs 

The oil return to the pump body is via the centre of the pump drive shaft through a hole in each eccentric drive to the pistons . 

All the wearing parts are in very good condition 

[smiffy]

I have also done some work on all the small annoying bits that take ages . These include both foot and hand throttle linkages ,manual advance and retard linkages .  Most of this was missing or in a very bad state

There is also a linkage from the clutch that turns the the self cleaning oil filter . Ever time the clutch is depressed a lever moves a  ratchet on the auto clean filter  to turn it about 20 degrees

The auto clean filter is made up of a series of discs  anchored to the main shaft , in between each disc is a .005 1nch shim that is supposed to scrape any gunge into a separate small sump under the oil filter .

Every 500 miles this sump is drained 

[LarryH57]

Smiffy, I have just noticed the last post occurred the day before Covid-19 'started'. Hopefully you and the restoration are OK?

Edited August 26, 2021 by LarryH57

[smiffy]

Its has been a long time since I have posted any thing as have been far too busy working on other projects . One thing that was holding me up was the radiator as one of the side panels needed replacing .

I used the good side as a pattern but could not get a satisfactory casting using my home foundry as it really needed pouring from 3  places at the same time which is a bit difficult on you own. . So I took it to a foundry and had one cast . It took them 3 goes to get it right and he told me that every time they do long thin castings they say it will be the last time .

Anyway I have a good casting and have machined it and started to rebuild the rad

 

[Pete Ashby]

Impressed 

Pete

[smiffy]

Started to get the body panels and wings fitted up . I want to have a trial fit up as the wing bonnet were made about 25 years ago by friend who used to help me before I moved 200 miles away  to a new area 

The panel all need a small amount of fettling and adjustment  as over the years they have suffered from being moved around . We never had any patterns to start with so the wings and bonnet are our interruption of what they might have  been like.

All the parts have acquired  some rust in storage and my answer is to mix up a bucket of water with citric acid and leave any rusty bits to soak overnight . This leaves a bright surface that when dry is ready for painting

Photo 1 shows wheel nuts that i made some years ago that had been left unpainted and became quite rusty .After 24 hours in citric acid they nice and clean. I buy 10kg bags and use about 1 handfull in 2 gallons of water 

All the panel etc now need painting and retaining clips etc need to be made so along way still to go ,there is still a long way to go 

I have a reasonable set of tyres so need to sort rear rims and remove some very old and rotten tyres .I could have cut the old tyres of the rims but the tubes where still holding air and  I will use them again ,also I wanted to save the flaps . 

The tyres are rusted to the rims having laid around for years . The tubes will only be used as a temporary measure 

Photo hows removing tyres using a short piece of angle iron  and a hammer

Edited June 5, 2022 by smiffy

[smiffy]

I had to cut out the 8 bots holding the split rims together so this weeks work has been to make 8 new nuts and bolts .

I started with enough material to make each one into two bolts as the head stock on my lathe is too small to let the material pass through and this is the best way that I could think of to make them using the minimum of material.

After threading in the lathe at each end  I milled a hexagon in the middle and parted them off

The nuts I made individually Whole job took about a day and used 4 foot of 35mm En8 bar

[smiffy]

One task that  I have not even started yet is the fuel tank ,I have brought a sheet of 1.2mm steel and will start a new tank this week, Fortunately I have the old tank as a pattern and have the original filler fuel gauge and large drain plug. 

Other jobs have been fitting up the bonnet sides and front mudguards and starting to paint the body work

Little jobs include making period hose clamps and starting work on the dash panel .

 

[Citroman]

How big is the dial of the gauge?

[smiffy]

12 hours ago, Citroman said:

How big is the dial of the gauge?

Hi the gauge is 120 mm o/a and the dial is 80mm 

[Citroman]

I can make you a new dial on 0.5mm aluminium plate. Silver coloured with black or white with black. We can print on special aluminium. I need a very good picture and the exact sizes.

Regards Fer

[smiffy]

Started work on the new tank by cutting up a 8 foot by 4 foot by  1.2mm sheet of mild steel sheet which was just large enough to get the main tank 3 baffle plates and 2 end plates out of . I marked out the overall size of the tank and allowed enough to do a fold at each end to make the longitudinal seam. Then I marked out the position of the four corners and used my plate rollers to form the corners by clamping it between the rollers to form the radius.

The whole operation worked a treat and i ended up with correctly shaped tube . Next I closed the long seam over a piece of railway track to close the seam and soldered it

Formed the ribs around the tank using a friends bead rollers and cut the hole for filler neck and drain plug'

Next job will be to rivet and solder the filler drain plug and fuel gauge and make and fit the baffles and ends 

[Old Bill]

Coming on nicely! How did you go about folding the longitudinal seam? I have always struggled with that, usually tapping the edge over against a block. I can get away with it on something small but something this big is a real challenge. There must be a trick to it!

Steve    😁

[Pete Ashby]

Excellent piece of fabrication congratulations. 

Presumably you had to calculate the additional over all length required to take account of the shrinkage resulting from forming the ribbing ?. 

Pete

[smiffy]

22 hours ago, Old Bill said:

Coming on nicely! How did you go about folding the longitudinal seam? I have always struggled with that, usually tapping the edge over against a block. I can get away with it on something small but something this big is a real challenge. There must be a trick to it!

Steve    😁

I folded a 12mm strip on each end of the steel before I formed it to shape .1 end is reversed to the other . The difficult part is to fold the steel so that, 1 the corners are in the correct place and, 2 that the ends are parallel. I spent some time setting up each bend and it came out OK . Next I hooked the 2 end together and placed it over the railway track and using a flatter closed the joint , To get the joint finished it would be best to use a piece of metal with a grove in it the same width and depth as the finished seam . I do not have one and did not want to spend the time making one so used a large cross pein hammer to form the return and leave a straight edge inside the tank   Alternatively a wide chisel  with the cutting edge radiused would do the same job  or a brick bolster would also work .

As for the ribs I have not idea how long the original tank was as most of it has long gone . As my rollers are 37 inches long that is the length of the tank .It could not be much bigger as that fills the space on the chassis

I am more of a heavy engineer than a tin worker so some of my methods are a bit home brewed but they work

[Old Bill]

Ah, thanks! A nice neat job. So you folded the edge with a sheet metal folder? Having the right tools for the job makes a big difference!

Steve   🙂

[smiffy]

I have just finished the fuel tank The .3 internal baffles are riveted in place with the rivets soldered to seal them and I welded the end plates in  . There are 2 pick up pipes one for the main supply and the other for the reserve. on the original tank these were identified by a bit of solder by each pipe marked M and R  so I copied this onto the new tank. I have not tested it yet but no doubt there will be some leaks . To clean of the flux I will put the tank in a tub filled with a water and citric acid solution . 

I am not sure whether to treat the inside with one of the sealers or not 

/

Edited August 28, 2022 by smiffy

[Old Bill]

That's a proper job, nicely done!

I hadn't heard of the citric acid trick to remove the flux. I wish I had known about it before trying to paint our tank as it kept reacting with it. Always something new to learn!

Keep up the good work.

Steve   🙂