Jump to content
smiffy

Crossley IGL 3

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, smiffy said:

The springs that hold the 3 cams under tension were past there sell by date so acquired some  clock springs of the correct size from   a friend . For the inner springs I softened the springs to reshape them and as they can be difficult to get to a even temperature to re temper  I lay them on a tray of brass swarf which is then heated . This makes it easy to judge the colour for tempering without over heating the thin spring steel

I wouldn't expect that to work, as thin spring steel typically gets it properties from the cold work rather than heat treatment. 

If you find that there is a problem, then try again cold-forming the springs. 

(If I have a speciality, this is it, I did postdoctoral research on spring steel materials for retraction springs. I even had my own rolling mill to work with)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I only know what works for me . My other interest is clock making and I follow the procedures laid out by W J Gazeley ,Brittan and John Wilding in their books on clock making and repair..

I start with a broken main spring which for the main outer springs I cut to length and machine the slots . This can be done without annealing and retempering . The problem is with the springs that act onto the snail cams inside the unit .These have very tight bends in them . I had to anneal  the spring  or it snapped when bending . It is then too soft to act as a spring .I heat the spring to a bright red and quench in oil . I then polished them to a bright finish . and   heat them until they become blue -purple and quench them in clean water. 

IMG_0720.JPG

IMG_0718.JPG

IMG_0719.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, smiffy said:

I only know what works for me . My other interest is clock making and I follow the procedures laid out by W J Gazeley ,Brittan and John Wilding in their books on clock making and repair..

Thinking about it, I have read a couple of books on clockmaking myself, and seem to recall something about "white springs" and "blue springs". 

My research was entirely on what would be termed "white springs" and I think that, on reflection, the "blue spring" technology you are using is correct both for the springs you are using and the age of the vehicle. 

I suggest that you ignore me in future :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have not had any time to work on the Crossley for nearly a year but have built a new workshop for my other project so should have a bit more space . I now have most of the parts so should be able to start putting it all back together and started with the air springs  I had ordered some new leather seals which I have fitted and they are now ready to be fitted back on the chassis .

Hopefully I will get back on track over the next few months but must remember to stop getting involved with more new project

Mike

crossley air spring.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last year  I acquired a spare engine It is from a much later 4x4 truck but the blocks piston , con rods and crankshaft are the same.

Today I made a start on stripping it down . It always amazes me that even when parts look completely  rusted together how easily nuts and bolts can come undone . When I  I try to do the same with modern nuts and bolts  it usually ends having to resort to cutting them off .I can only assume that the steel used is of a different quality .

 Hope fully the con rods will be better than the ones in my other engine 

 

crossley engine 2.jpg

crossley engine.jpg

IMG_0696.JPG

Edited by smiffy
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I stripped the new engine down and removed the pistons. I decided to remove the pistons out of the top of the blocks as this was the shortest distance and they were badly corroded in the bores ,so hand to make a horseshoe washer and pushing tube to enable me to push on the piston and not the conrod  .

Before attempting to remove the pistons I  boiled the blocks in oil for several hours to try and get some lubrication past the pistons . This only had limited success and the pistons took considerable force to press out

I have decided to use the parts to build a spare engine as I have a spare correct aluminium  crankcase  . The engine I stripped down has a cast iron crankcase  The blocks will need boring out and fitting with egg shell liners and at the same time  have valve seat inserts fitted as the valve seats are very badly pitted.

By fitting egg shell liners I hope to be able to use the existing pistons and just fit new rings as i have had no luck trying to obtain new pistons 

piston as removed.jpg

piston tool.jpg

piston removal tool.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i will carry on rebuilding my original engine as i have enough parts . The pistons are of a rather odd design as they are machined right through below the oil control ring and the crown of the piston is only attached by 2 luggs cast up above the gudgeon  pin.

I have refitted the mag and auto advance . The drive chain adjustment is for camshaft and mag is by sliding the housing out and to lock it in place the mag support bracket is serrated and locked with serrate washes .

I will set the timing with the piston at T D C and set the valves on the bounce,  and hope this is about right 

piston 1.jpg

crossley engine1.jpg

crossley mag.jpg

crossley engine 3.jpg

piston tdc.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you will have to set the mag timing a few degrees before TDC. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, Citroman said:

I think you will have to set the mag timing a few degrees before TDC. Good luck.

I am referring to the valve timing   at tdc not the mag timing  which will be set at a max of 30 degrees btdc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have assembled most of the engine .having replace all the manifold stud etc . The exhaust manifold had one broken flange which I machined off flat and having cut a new flange   I welded it on using  a 29/9 rod 

IMG_0903.JPG

IMG_0905.JPG

IMG_0906.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×