andypugh Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 3 hours ago, smiffy said: The springs that hold the 3 cams under tension were past there sell by date so acquired some clock springs of the correct size from a friend . For the inner springs I softened the springs to reshape them and as they can be difficult to get to a even temperature to re temper I lay them on a tray of brass swarf which is then heated . This makes it easy to judge the colour for tempering without over heating the thin spring steel I wouldn't expect that to work, as thin spring steel typically gets it properties from the cold work rather than heat treatment. If you find that there is a problem, then try again cold-forming the springs. (If I have a speciality, this is it, I did postdoctoral research on spring steel materials for retraction springs. I even had my own rolling mill to work with) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 I only know what works for me . My other interest is clock making and I follow the procedures laid out by W J Gazeley ,Brittan and John Wilding in their books on clock making and repair.. I start with a broken main spring which for the main outer springs I cut to length and machine the slots . This can be done without annealing and retempering . The problem is with the springs that act onto the snail cams inside the unit .These have very tight bends in them . I had to anneal the spring or it snapped when bending . It is then too soft to act as a spring .I heat the spring to a bright red and quench in oil . I then polished them to a bright finish . and heat them until they become blue -purple and quench them in clean water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 1 hour ago, smiffy said: I only know what works for me . My other interest is clock making and I follow the procedures laid out by W J Gazeley ,Brittan and John Wilding in their books on clock making and repair.. Thinking about it, I have read a couple of books on clockmaking myself, and seem to recall something about "white springs" and "blue springs". My research was entirely on what would be termed "white springs" and I think that, on reflection, the "blue spring" technology you are using is correct both for the springs you are using and the age of the vehicle. I suggest that you ignore me in future :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 I have not had any time to work on the Crossley for nearly a year but have built a new workshop for my other project so should have a bit more space . I now have most of the parts so should be able to start putting it all back together and started with the air springs I had ordered some new leather seals which I have fitted and they are now ready to be fitted back on the chassis . Hopefully I will get back on track over the next few months but must remember to stop getting involved with more new project Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 (edited) Last year I acquired a spare engine It is from a much later 4x4 truck but the blocks piston , con rods and crankshaft are the same. Today I made a start on stripping it down . It always amazes me that even when parts look completely rusted together how easily nuts and bolts can come undone . When I I try to do the same with modern nuts and bolts it usually ends having to resort to cutting them off .I can only assume that the steel used is of a different quality . Hope fully the con rods will be better than the ones in my other engine Edited October 30, 2018 by smiffy 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 I stripped the new engine down and removed the pistons. I decided to remove the pistons out of the top of the blocks as this was the shortest distance and they were badly corroded in the bores ,so hand to make a horseshoe washer and pushing tube to enable me to push on the piston and not the conrod . Before attempting to remove the pistons I boiled the blocks in oil for several hours to try and get some lubrication past the pistons . This only had limited success and the pistons took considerable force to press out I have decided to use the parts to build a spare engine as I have a spare correct aluminium crankcase . The engine I stripped down has a cast iron crankcase The blocks will need boring out and fitting with egg shell liners and at the same time have valve seat inserts fitted as the valve seats are very badly pitted. By fitting egg shell liners I hope to be able to use the existing pistons and just fit new rings as i have had no luck trying to obtain new pistons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 i will carry on rebuilding my original engine as i have enough parts . The pistons are of a rather odd design as they are machined right through below the oil control ring and the crown of the piston is only attached by 2 luggs cast up above the gudgeon pin. I have refitted the mag and auto advance . The drive chain adjustment is for camshaft and mag is by sliding the housing out and to lock it in place the mag support bracket is serrated and locked with serrate washes . I will set the timing with the piston at T D C and set the valves on the bounce, and hope this is about right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 I think you will have to set the mag timing a few degrees before TDC. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 8 minutes ago, Citroman said: I think you will have to set the mag timing a few degrees before TDC. Good luck. I am referring to the valve timing at tdc not the mag timing which will be set at a max of 30 degrees btdc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 12, 2018 Author Share Posted November 12, 2018 I have assembled most of the engine .having replace all the manifold stud etc . The exhaust manifold had one broken flange which I machined off flat and having cut a new flange I welded it on using a 29/9 rod 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 My thoughts are turning towards getting the truck mobile as I need to turn it around soon . Can anyone point me in the right direction to obtain 900 x 20 bar grip tyres . The last time I required some was over 20 years ago and they were readily available but now it seems to be a different story. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earlymb Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 What a great project! 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 1 hour ago, smiffy said: My thoughts are turning towards getting the truck mobile as I need to turn it around soon . Can anyone point me in the right direction to obtain 900 x 20 bar grip tyres . The last time I required some was over 20 years ago and they were readily available but now it seems to be a different story. Mike Hi Mike, Have you seen this > https://www.bigtyres.co.uk/9-00-20-12-ply-malhotra-military-m-88-bar-grip-tt.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 3 hours ago, Richard Farrant said: Hi Mike, Have you seen this > https://www.bigtyres.co.uk/9-00-20-12-ply-malhotra-military-m-88-bar-grip-tt.html Thanks , I had seen these tyres but was hoping to find some part worn . When I last brought any tyres there seemed to be plenty around but that would not appear to be the case now . I will just have to bight the bullet and buy some . I have promised my better half an extension and new kitchen next year , she might not understand that tyres are more important than a new cooker Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 20 minutes ago, smiffy said: Thanks , ... she might not understand that tyres are more important than a new cooker Never skimp on anything that comes between you and the ground. That includes shoes, beds, sofas and tyres. But not, you will notice, cookers. Incidentally, when cooker-shopping you might want to consider those that offer pyrolytic cleaning, the higher temperature is likely to be more useful for tempering and annealing parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 17, 2018 Author Share Posted November 17, 2018 I only need some tyres to get the truck mobile they would not be used on the road , so will try and get some casings .The new tyres will not be needed for some time yet. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 Fitted the engine today. It sits on a sub frame which is is mounted in plain bearing at the front , is ridge mounted in the middle and a spherical bearing at the rear. Once the engine is fitted it is very difficult to work on ., even changing the started motor or water pump is awkward . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 Looking good. It is out of the way now as well! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 Real progress looks very good couple of questions is your mag a Simms SRM4? and have you had it serviced ? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 7 hours ago, Pete Ashby said: Real progress looks very good couple of questions is your mag a Simms SRM4? and have you had it serviced ? Pete Yes mag is SRM 4. I think that I fitted new bearing ,but it was over 30 years ago. I do have a few spares in various states of repair .that I will repairing if the need arises. The mag was the wrong direction of rotation when I aquired it, so I reversed the direction . It has a good spark so will leave it alone. I stared getting the gear box into shape to refit fortunately its in fair order , When I started this restoration i 1985 I fitted new bearings and fitted lip seals in place of the original felt seals . The gearbox is a real sod to fit . as it has to be lifted up from underneath and is a very tight fit. . It also sits on a sub frame ,with a carden shaft to the clutch .It was obviously fitted before the cab . I cleared all the bits of the rear to start assessing what needs doing . When I started this project I did a huge amount of work on the axles and breaks etc Hopefully this is still ok but it will require a lot of work to get it to a good standard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 13 hours ago, smiffy said: Yes mag is SRM 4. I think that I fitted new bearing ,but it was over 30 years ago. I do have a few spares in various states of repair .that I will repairing if the need arises. The mag was the wrong direction of rotation when I aquired it, so I reversed the direction . It has a good spark so will leave it alone. The reason I asked is I have an SRM 4 on the Leyland that I think is giving me problems and I suspect it is condenser related and wondered if you had found a reliable company to service your unit. I v'e found a number of firms on the web with prices that seem to vary considerably and I always like a 'happy customer recommendation' if I can find it. I'm interested in your comment about reversing the rotation of the mag, I too have a spare unit with the wrong rotation for my engine could I ask how did you go about changing the direction ? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 51 minutes ago, Pete Ashby said: The reason I asked is I have an SRM 4 on the Leyland that I think is giving me problems and I suspect it is condenser related Modern Technology makes it possible to fit a replacement condensor inside the points housing. http://www.brightsparkmagnetos.com/easycap/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share Posted November 26, 2018 Simms SRM4 direction reversal Remove points cover and distributor cap Undo screw in middle of cam Make a small puller and remove cam ,note the letter stamp on the cam to indicate rotation direction Remove backing plate behind points Find the dot on the small gear which should line up with either the L or R mark om the distributor gear and set appropriately Replace cam in correct position remark direction on mag body so you dont forget that the arrow on the oil cap is now in the wrong direction 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 Many thanks Mike for that full explanation with the bonus of photos, much appreciated I'll dig the spare out from under the bench and see about changing it over. regards Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiffy Posted March 11, 2020 Author Share Posted March 11, 2020 It has been a long time since I last posted as many other projects get in the way , everything from clock making to the restoration of a 2 stone water mill and large francis turbine . I have replaced the gearbox but the clutch brake has long since gone walk about so having a rough idea what it should look like I fabricated a replacement . The plate has to fit in between the 2 flanges on the drive shaft This still needs finishing and I need a bit of old clutch friction plate to cut up for the lining . Also made a interlock for the gear lever to stop it being put into reverse by mistake , again the original had long gone. I only have 1 flexible coupling for the drive shaft and the firm making replacement ones what too many beer tokens for one . I have ordered some balata belting which I will cut into discs rivet together and see it it works The coupling is 4.5 inches PCD and 6 inches overall and 1 inch thick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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